Just say "NO" to loader drilling!

[Dayspring]

The reason people drill the hopper is so the warp/hopper combination can sit tight. This sticks out just as far, if not farther than the hose. I think you'd see the same problem...

[Evil Bob]

Originally posted by billmi
Bob - first of all, Lightwave rocks! I've been a Lightwave user since version 1.0 and used to teach seminars in it's use at Fresno State. Stuart Fergusun and Allen Hastings rock as well. Back in the day, the Lightwave mailing list had some 60-80 people on it, and someone would ask about how to do something in Modeler, and Stuart would post an AREXX macro to automatically do it the same day.

On to the topic.... I prefer to use a Ricochet loader with the Warp, which bypasses the whole issue of bending or cutting the loader entirely.

See you on the field,
-Bill Mills

Yeah, I've been using LW since 4.0, got hooked on it from a LW users group in Minnesota, been using it ever since.

The Rico solves alot of those problems due to it's shape, but I can outshoot the Rico easily, the only loader that can keep up with me is the halo.

-Evil Bob

[shartley]

But I thought EVERYONE had Lightwave!

Yes, it is very good. I have used (and have) both Lightwave and 3DSM, and I recommend Lightwave every time.

[Evil Bob]

Originally posted by Dayspring
The reason people drill the hopper is so the warp/hopper combination can sit tight. This sticks out just as far, if not farther than the hose. I think you'd see the same problem...

Very true, most people drilled or melted their shells to bring the warp/hopper in closer to the marker, make it much tighter. You can do the same with a small modification to the warp feed mounting bracket (comparison posted below) and improve how far your elbow hangs out.

The vertical feed won't cause the same problem since the hose is not exiting at an angle and getting in the way of the hopper. On the Emag, the rail comes up even with the body itself laterally, so the feed port doesn't need to protrude too much to get the hose adapter on it. I don't really see any problem with it.

-Evil Bob

Old pic of my warp bracket mod comparison with an old pre BE 12v revy. In the bottom most pics, you can see my bro's arm against the warp forcing his elbow out. Moving the warp bracket perpendicular to the grip frame alleviates this problem entirely, my bro is able to tuck his elbow in. The best part is ZERO DRILLING :)

[Jonno06]

can you explain how to put the warp bracket on like that?..thanx

[Evil Bob]

Easy enough, drill a third hole that allows you to mount it at a right angle to the grip frame.

-Evil Bob

[Army]

But I like the "what the..?" looks from other players when they see my drilled Revvy:)

[Schnitzel]

evil bob beat me to it....

i have done the same thing....all it does is pushes my warp tube forward...no drilling, melting, or redesigning the body. all ot takes is drilling a hole through 1/8" aluminum.

[Evil Bob]

John Sosta AGDE drilled it out when he put my emag together when I lived in the UK, he does that to all the warp brackets. It makes a big difference in placement, shifts the weight of the halo back a bit for the marker really balances out nicely, allows you to tuck your shoulder and elbow in nicely, and it gets the warp/hopper in tight to the marker.

-Evil Bob

[Doc Nickel]

Well, it's not a 'Mag, but since I just function-tested this last night, I figured I'd show it off.



It's a modified body with a RaceGun frame using the new leaf board with a warp interface. I ran out of paint last night, so it's only tested with about a half-hopperful so far, but it seems to feed just fine.

Doc.

[EsPo]

Originally posted by Army
But I like the "what the..?" looks from other players when they see my drilled Revvy:)

i like that also :)
evil bob: my warp mounting bracket doesnt have 2 holes like a normal one would, it has like slots, i'd take a pic, but the digi cam ran out of juice 2morrow ill get one..

[cledford]

Originally posted by Doc Nickel
Well, it's not a 'Mag, but since I just function-tested this last night, I figured I'd show it off.



It's a modified body with a RaceGun frame using the new leaf board with a warp interface. I ran out of paint last night, so it's only tested with about a half-hopperful so far, but it seems to feed just fine.

Doc.

Doc,

I've got a body I can ship out tomorrow. please email me at [email protected] and let me know how much. Don't worry about turn around time - I can wait.

-Calvin

[Muzikman]

Doc,
Sell me that gun right now...But first move the pneumatics to the side of the gun as in a reversed cocker and mill and ano the body.

[FalconGuy016]

Where on the website is the 30 day trial?

[Automaggin2]

Am i the only person who sees a problem with this? Doesnt feeding at a 90 degree angle actually slow down or restrict the flow of the balls compared to feeding at say a 60 degree angle? I say this because it wont work like power feed because its pointed downwards, it would actually push them down wont it? The balls would bounce of the side ( walls (cause of blowback) and slow down and maybe drop because of gravity,causing a slower feed rate, or chopped balls. Also, i think the balls can directly press on there center point and causing them to just yield (its hard to explain what im thinking).

Anyways, if it was more of an angle you would make a direct line into the chamber, causing a faster feed.