Mag user... Not very happy (lvl 10 ruins)

[Big_Chops]

i oiled my gun frequently as i see others do. i made it a point to oil the bolt stem and i shoot about 8000 paintball through it without one single problem

[Halliday]

I got my LX setup on July 3rd, 2002. I set it up in my E-Mag that day. In all the cases of paint I've shot since then, last Sat was the first and only time I had to change the carrier. I had been having leaks down the barrel and no amount of oil seemed to stop it. I went from a 2 to a 1.5.

Pretty consistant for me.

[Jerhew]

once you've got the lx tuned, lube is the most important thing.
lube will protect your orings from wear, and thus keep your lx from leaking...

and people, use good lube...
get some kc troublefree or some nice airtool oil
and use it!
2 drops in the asa every weekend you play
if that's too much maintanance for ya, well maybe you should look into making chess youre main hobby

[cphilip]

Alot of you are still missing something very important about level 7. Not only is level 10 softer in its first stage, there fore making it chop proof, it also has less force in its second stage, the part where the ball is actually fired down the range.

Going back to level 7 will cause you to have breaks, whether the ball is missfed or not. the reason for this being is that, when the bolt goes to push the ball into the breach, it will hit it so much faster, and with so much more force than with the level 10. The level 10 slowly and lightly moves the ball into the breach, then when it hits stage too, it speeds u a bit, and sends the balld own the range with a blast of air.

level 7 just slams it in and fires it. Level 7 is too forcefull, and that slamming of the bolt into the poor waiting ball, can crack the ball, and well, there you go, barrel break.


Remember why the old super bolt sucked and caused even more chops? its because it got even faster in an old level 7 setup, and would crack the balls even more.

there ya go! stick with level 10, it isnt hard man!

Not so. It doesn't happen that way at all. The ball is not slammed in by breach by the bolt... it falls in. Or is forced in by the stack of waiting balls. The bolt is back and waiting at that point. The bolt does nothing to seat the ball in the breach but get out of the way.

Its the waiting ball that is "nipped" by the edge of the fast moving bolt while firing the ball in the breach that breaks later down the line. Not the one being fired at the time. That "waiting ball" is partialy in the way and often gets nicked by the bolt as it goes by. A portion of them fracture and are ready to break. Some make it out ok some don't. Some get oriented accidently but correctly so they do not get hit with the blast of air just right to fracture them and some do break. Ya never know. Luck of the draw.

So your right in your conclusion but not in your exact facts of how it happens. And the bolt returns at the same speed as level 10. It also travels its last half of the firing stoke as fast. Pretty much. That the uncorked section of it travel. Its the slower corked travel that when it hits the "waiting ball" causes little or no damage so that there are far less, if not none, that break when they finaly are fired out the barrel.

[shivors]

The reason I havent moved to a high class of marker from my Spyder is for this very reason. I got my Spyder...oiled the bolt and hammer and played all day. I have owned three Spyders over 8-9 years and have never had a single on-field problem (I tried to add a PE reg and it blew while I was chronoing).

I do perform indepth maintenance after every outing but still that is a hell of a track record for 100.00, 140.00, and 210.00 markers.

I am dieing to get a Mag but am very cautious. I REALLY dont want to have to tune this or tweak that to just get a working marker.

[Digits]

I would never get an x-mag over todays high end markers.. Probablly not even an e-mag..

LX is cool and all... But I can set my trix to be close to the stiff spring of the LX, and it has eyes so it won't chop.. I havn't even had to clean the breach yet at all threw about 4 cases.. And I doubt I ever will

[1ofkind]

Guys I think its time to admit, these new electros are starting to look sweeter. The alais timmy is so light and fast, i'm dieing for one!

[Lohman446]

You know, now that you mention it I maintain three e-mags for myself and two other people.

Mine I never change the level ten carrier - and theres about 30K shots since i last did.

Other one - never touch it, but he shoots slow and there is probably less than 20K on it

Other one - I change every so often, but last week after changing it I noticed I had misdiagnosed the problem, the bolt spring was weak, easy fix.

[Athius]

lvl x is cool but the thing that sucks is that made my automag much more of a gashog than it was before.

[RenagadeOfFunk]

Personally any carrier swapping is a small price to pay for no chopping. I think mag owners get a little spoiled. Other guns can have more maintenance, even more frequently. (Ever try and get the front reg assy. of a timmy to grease a cup seal after every 2 cases? sheesh)

...aww come on...intimidators aren't that bad...after all they are light, fast, advanced, efficent, and sexy...

nate, you might want to just deal with it like i did with my rt pro and e-mag...its not a hassel if you keep your carriers in order and just switch to the next lower/higher one...which ever is needed...

[Tobe2be]

well im lazy and didnt read the whole thread i just read the first post and a post bout setting a trix like a level ten.

ok emag/xmags where WAY ahead of there times. my xmag can keep up with most markers in the game right now... of course you have these cheater boards that help faster rate of fires but that doesnt matter much to me. i do agree with the level ten acting up every now and then but mines shuts up with some love juice(oil).so i think its a small price to pay for a marker that has been out as long as electros have been in the market without any DRASTIC changes besides asthetics and a fake eye system that doesnt work very good.

[joez]

When i had my classic valve on my E-mag, i had put nearly 40K shots on that valve when it was on the E. Then i traded for an X Biggest mistake ever. I had a number 2000 or so minimag valve on my marker, and once i got it set, i never had to touch it again. I played with it mech for a while before the E-mag conversion, so it had even more shots on it than that. Add another 5-10K for when it was a bassic mech mag.

That was a sweet setup, it never chopped, it was plenty fast, yeah it was heavy, but i could deal with it. Everyone who ever shot it loved the way it shot. Plus it had the cool factor, it was different. Nate i think even you shot it when it still had the classic on it. And if i remember right, it wasnt too long after that you bought another E-mag.

But what happened? I got caught up in the hype and bought an X valve. The level 10 has never been right, and its really making me mad. I even put my old LX setup in it, and that lasted less than 3K shots. The board is still capped at the same ROF, it still has the same barrel, but the X-valve always leaks. I kept dropping carier sizes, but guess what happened now? Im on the smallest carrier. What happens when this one starts leaking in 5K shots like all the rest have? I loved the LX for the first year i played with it on my classic, but this last year or so has really started to agrevate me. Ive tried more oil, less oil, everything. But it always comes back. Hence why it is now my backup to my project tribal.

To be perfectly honest, i am very much considering going back to a Level 7, putting a ULE body on it, and running a morlock with eyes. /Rant off

[nato]

[Tobe2be]

wow i hope this doesnt happen to me this weekend... but i see your point a 1k marker shouldnt give that much problems... hey ive learned to deal with it not sayin you need to but just saying it

[cledford]

But what happened? I got caught up in the hype and bought an X valve. The level 10 has never been right, and its really making me mad. I even put my old LX setup in it, and that lasted less than 3K shots. The board is still capped at the same ROF, it still has the same barrel, but the X-valve always leaks. I kept dropping carier sizes, but guess what happened now? Im on the smallest carrier. What happens when this one starts leaking in 5K shots like all the rest have? I loved the LX for the first year i played with it on my classic, but this last year or so has really started to agrevate me. Ive tried more oil, less oil, everything. But it always comes back. Hence why it is now my backup to my project tribal.

For the most part I'll say that people complaining about tweaking level 10 are just complaining too much in my book. Especially the 'Trix guy - you may not need to tweak L10 - but you DO NEED to tear your marker apart after EVERY day of play to grease - I don't exactly care that user friendly.

That having been said this thread brings up and interesting point. On my old Emag (stainless) valve with LX I only ever needed to change the LX carrier once - from 2.5 to 2. The valve was replaced with and X - but now doubles as a ReTro valve in a mech mag and is still running a 2.

In my X valve, I've had to change carriers from 2.0 all of the way down to .5 in each half size increment. I lube the power tube stem with KC, I run the short spring, and have been using the same oring. In short, although there is no reason THE VALVE is causing faster wear on the oring, I can say I change the LX carrier MUCH more on the X then my older Emag valve. In my mind that says that the orings supplied with the X valves must be from a different lot and are wearing faster.

In any event - to the person who asked what to when you run out of carriers? Get another oring - it's that simple - their not meant to last for ever and cost $1 at the AGD store.

-Calvin