The SpyderMAG, Incl a How To

[GoatBoy]

while tuning the ult for the mod, before I atached the gripframe, I tested out the ult with my inteliframe, and it had a hell of allot of reactivity! I couldnt get the bad boy to behave (fir without running away) no matter how many shims were in there.
The solenoid solves that problem, as it only activates for a 1 ms pulse, so no runaway :)

That's funny, all you wind up using the on/off pin for then is basically a sear return spring.

You might still want to get the thing working without runaway to help with efficiency though. Have you tried it with NO shims?

The other route, if you don't care for the on/off ever closing, might be to just cut off the back end of the sear that makes contact with the on/off pin. Let the pin just hang out. Then go back to a return spring on the sear. Sort of... desert fox style, if you remember that thread from a long time ago. No need to increase input pressure.

[A Nobody]

THE FITZ, I'm pretty sure that the 02 LCD rebel frame you speak of won't work nearly as well as the Spyder frames. First of all, the back of the rebel frame is shaped such that you'll have to do a ton of cutting in order to get the field strip screw all the way in. I guess you could try to get a screw with a smaller head on it, but that's not the only problem. The sear in the rebel is farther back than it is in the spyder guns, so I don't know how well this mod would work on one, if it would even work at all. My brother has two of them, and I've examined one to see if I could get it to work on my mag. I decided to get spend some extra money and get a spyder esp frame. Just a heads up, maybe you can figure something out.

[tony3]

That's funny, all you wind up using the on/off pin for then is basically a sear return spring.

You might still want to get the thing working without runaway to help with efficiency though. Have you tried it with NO shims?

The other route, if you don't care for the on/off ever closing, might be to just cut off the back end of the sear that makes contact with the on/off pin. Let the pin just hang out. Then go back to a return spring on the sear. Sort of... desert fox style, if you remember that thread from a long time ago. No need to increase input pressure.

I hope I'm reading this right but basically what you are saying is get rid of the on off pin? The on off pin does a lot more then just move the sear. It is what sends air to the dump chamber before everyshot. Without the on off pin the gun simply won't work.

[robdamanii]

Actually, if you think about it...

The ONE frame is basically a board and solenoid....attach that to a micro-ram....and you've got a hair trigger of sorts.

[THEFITZ]

o well ill still make an attempt but thanks for the heads up tho

*i also got a great deal on the frame thats why i dident get an esp

[Xtraboy]

so did you ditch the XSF board for a T-Board yet? Or, are you going to?

Any chance we could get a video? that'd be pretty sweet...

oh yah, and props

[GoatBoy]

I hope I'm reading this right but basically what you are saying is get rid of the on off pin? The on off pin does a lot more then just move the sear. It is what sends air to the dump chamber before everyshot. Without the on off pin the gun simply won't work.

Your choice of terminology might need a bit of adjusting... The pin doesn't "send air to the dump chamber"; more like it "releases air to the dump chamber". The pin is there to actually block the air passage to the dump chamber so you don't refill it before the sear is ready to catch the bolt. No pin means constant refilling of the chamber.


It's probably not the best idea, but hey, I thought I'd throw it out there.


Ergo! Vis a vis! Concordantly!

[Xenocide]

xtraboy: I have alwaysused the t-board. Some other people who did this mod tried the xsf board, and apearantly it sucks. I have the t-board, with break beam eyes, and it rocks.

[robdamanii]

Actually, the more I think about this the more I think it could be done with a humphrey's solenoid and something like a timmy board....

Now just working it all out...

[than205]

Your choice of terminology might need a bit of adjusting... The pin doesn't "send air to the dump chamber"; more like it "releases air to the dump chamber". The pin is there to actually block the air passage to the dump chamber so you don't refill it before the sear is ready to catch the bolt. No pin means constant refilling of the chamber.


It's probably not the best idea, but hey, I thought I'd throw it out there.


Ergo! Vis a vis! Concordantly!

Without the pin, I doubt the bolt would reset.

[Lurker27]

To do this with a timmy board, you'll need a big cap 15V 6800uF or bigger, in parallel with the battery, and a step up transformer in place of the solenoid, so you can dump the full 9v.

[Linkwarner]

ok out of subject, but how does the "stiffi" barrel perform?
oh and back on subject, would that work for an old E99 trigger frame, if so I will be doing that soon.

[Xenocide]

While I havent seen an e99, I think you could probably look in the grip and see weather it will work or not.

The stiffi works great. I love it.

Movie should be posted sometime tomarow, hexis shows what a pair of fast fingers can really do, and that the lvl 10 rocks joor boxors. (didn't have the eyes on)

[Xenocide]

::Update::
Now with video!

https://www.hxxl.com/~mjb/XenoMag.mp4

In the video you can see the infamous mag man Hexis making my frankenstein marker sing!
The eyes are off, you can hear the lvl 10 doing it's job :) This was using paint that had been sitting in my closet in unsealed bags for at least a year and a half, I think they are from last year's first biggame at paintballsam's.
::Update::

[Hexis]

Now we just gotta make it pretty.

Do I get to put at least one green part on there?