AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Even with antisiphon tanks? It wont even fire? I know it wont work well, but will it work at all?
ANother Question, what would happen If I did try to use CO2?
I don't see why you couldn't at least go ahead and try it. What's the worst that can happen? Freeze? Let it thaw. Eats your o-rings/seals? Replace them, not too expensive.
Consider it a grand experiment.
Own: stock '94 original Spyder, Used Nelspot 007, Phantom stock class
"Some of us thought you had gone insane. Verdict still pending on that one."
-Vegeta, aimed at Tom Kaye
Mercury Musings to meself:
If someone takes a paint-gun apart and modifies every scrap of it, does it matter what gun they had in the first place?
No, it does not matter.
Simplicity is proven over technological breakthrough.
Too bad we can't smack sense into everyone. Why, think of how easy learning would be.
Aiming is a good thing.
In reality, it might be best to listen to the manufacturer, people who have used them before, and experts when it comes to the product in question.
Everyone stated why it will/won't work and how well it would work, look back through the posts.
Get a cheap 48/3000, you will probably have to air up after every game or so, but they are around $80, they work, if you take care of it and it passes every hyro then it can last for 15 years. All for $80 plus re-hydro fees.
Even with antisiphon tanks? It wont even fire? I know it wont work well, but will it work at all?
ANother Question, what would happen If I did try to use CO2?
Danger Will Robinson, danger! Don't do it unless you feel like cleaning a valve and replacing all seals. There's a mag with xvalve that my field uses as a loner, and after a day of CO2, there was a gum-like residue. CO2 will freeze and pop every oring in the gun, not to mention freeze yer hand!
Danger Will Robinson, danger! Don't do it unless you feel like cleaning a valve and replacing all seals. There's a mag with xvalve that my field uses as a loner, and after a day of CO2, there was a gum-like residue. CO2 will freeze and pop every oring in the gun, not to mention freeze yer hand!
Seriously dude, you need to go take a look at at the periodic table. CO2 is inert, and it won't 'react' and leave a residue behind. If the marker stopped working all together, I would be quicker to attribute its death to the residue, rather than the CO2.
I wish people would realize that CO2 is no more "dirty" than HPA is (especially if the shop doesn't clean the filter on their compressor, and certainly if they use bulk tank N2). It doesn't corrode things ('cause its inert), and it doesn't just randomly destroy orings. The orings die when they freeze to the housing, which doesn't happen if you lube them like you should.
The point here is that CO2 is not evil, and is not entirely obsolete.
Now, can you run an XValve on CO2? Certainly. . . . . . . four or five shots, if you don't try to shoot them too fast. The problem comes not from the gas itself, but rather the fact that the gas can't exhert more than about 500-600 psi reliably, and a mag really needs more than that. When you shoot very fast at all, the CO2 chills, turns into a liquid, and the pressure drops significantly. So, it will shoot for a few shots, then chuff and get bolt stick. Then while you are unsticking the bolt, the pressure goes back up, and its good for a few more shots.
That's the kind of service you are going to get from an XValved mag on CO2. Nothing bad is going to happen to you, and the valve will live through it just fine (provided you lube it well before hand), but its not going to work well enough to use in a game.
This is why AGD says HPA only. Not because anything bad happens, but because they just don't want to have to deal with the problems when every person who trys it gets shootdown and boltstick.
Classic valves can run on co2. The problem is that liquid causes the gun to shoot hot and can freeze the lvl7 powertube o-ring (causing a leak). If you have a good expansion/remote setup you should be fine with the classic valve. Tom is a smart guy, he wouldn't have wasted all sorts of time and energy making hpa work for paintball if there wasn't a problem with liquid co2 and automags. He said in the video that comes with mags, "you must find a way to keep liquid(co2) out of the system at all costs."
As for the X valve i would listen to AGD on that one too.
I used a Tippmann 68 Special on Liquid CO2 many years ago. It was a very consistent and accurate marker. I believe some Sterling pumps work well on liquid CO2 as well.
I've been using CO2 (non-liquid :)) on a Classic for 1 1/2 years, and have not had to replace the o-rings yet. I just use an anti-siphon tank and expansion chamber.
All Sterlings were meant to be run on liquid C02 with syphon tubes, for this very reason way too many were pulled hot at the pump division of Skyball a few years ago.
I ran a Classic valved mag on C02 for several years with no ill effects, I did have a 3.5oz bottle as an expansion chamber though and an anti-syphon valve on the 20oz bottle...O rings were not an issue but I made a point of changing them reasonably regularly.
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