Introducing the Micromag 2009

[Tracy_ptp]

my level 10 worked wonderfully on my xmag. I never used the ace. IMO it is not worth wasting time on.

A few questions:

-What length are the bodies. I just read the whole thread, and did not see that spec.

-How tall are the bodies? IE will I need an odd sized on/off pin and that spacer between my body and emag lowers to get it to work correctly?

- What method of a steel retainer are you using for the breech. Are you using an AGD ss washer with c clip, an Xmag type screw in, or a PTP Micromag 2000 Press fit washer? (Please be the first one)

-What is the width of the front of the body (where the asa goes) is it the standard ~ 1" or is it wider/narrower?

- Are you having the same person/company anno these as your other PTP products? The reason I ask is I would possibly like to get a raw one sent in to match my golden MicroE, and would want the colors to be close.

The body looks good.
IMO the best color to anno them is gloss black, but thats just my .02

Hey - it's Forest. We will use as many of the Airgun specs as possible to make life easier. We are pulling a lot of those numbers from the TAC ONE although we are putting it on a diet. I would have to go in and pull the exact numbers from a drawing, but that's pretty much where we are.

We are so-so on the washer with clip and are planning on a simple pressed in washer design (not the standard Micro one).

On/off pins are always a bit personal when it comes to any valve or body and/or degree of reactive trigger that you want. We will keep you in the ballpark and you tweak.

The gold ano was done by our secondary anodizer who does our polishing. I'm still a little concerned about polishing this run of bodies and possibly having some tolerance issues. We'll have a sit down with them and discuss it in any case. "Production" polishing isn't always as good as "custom" work either. We'll look at all of the options.

[ZoomZ@PTP]

There will be 2-3 prototypes made and as the parts are comming off the machines , im going to have Jay Hunter standing next to me to assemble the body into a working gun to make sure everything is right with my programming and machines .

Jay will get the first prototype and the others will go to Forest for final aproval before i hit the go buttons on the machines .

I plan on making at least 5 lefty blocks for warp right guns .

Theres a couple other questions that were asked that i will get to in the morning when i get to the shop and have numbers in front of me .

[dark blade]

so this is going to be an emag/RT length assembly? YAY

i need it to fit my emag lowers perfectly. I know people have said it would fit, but i would prefer ti to come from one of the actual PTP employees... no offence to anyone else

[secretweaponevan]

Tracy, I have a question.

Does the bottom of the breech module have to be radiused? I think it would look better if it was squared off. As it stands, if the module is rotated to a warp left position, the rounded "bottom" of the breech module will now not flow with the right side of the body.

Could you possibly have Forest do a render of the module in a warp left position with and without the radiused bottom? I think you'll see what I mean.

Thank you much.

[Tracy_ptp]

Tracy, I have a question.

Does the bottom of the breech module have to be radiused? I think it would look better if it was squared off. As it stands, if the module is rotated to a warp left position, the rounded "bottom" of the breech module will now not flow with the right side of the body.

Could you possibly have Forest do a render of the module in a warp left position with and without the radiused bottom? I think you'll see what I mean.

Thank you much.

Okay fair enough - but which half...?

It has to blend as best we can. If anything doesn't look good as it comes off the machines Russell will fix it. We will render it in the different positions ASAP as well. Definitely need to - just a bit maxed out at the moment.

[Tracy_ptp]

Okay fair enough - but which half...?

It has to blend as best we can. If anything doesn't look good as it comes off the machines Russell will fix it. We will render it in the different positions ASAP as well. Definitely need to - just a bit maxed out at the moment.

Sorry (Forest here)- I missed Russell's reply above while I was probably single finger typing that response. As I said - he won't let it look anything but really sweet...

[dark blade]

i understand the streamlined look of everything... but is there any way to "spice it up" and make some cool milling along the sides and top... i think the sides (instead of being almost like a hexagon) would look better rounded and milled with an almost "artistic" design to make it look better (to me anyway)

[secretweaponevan]

Okay fair enough - but which half...?

It has to blend as best we can. If anything doesn't look good as it comes off the machines Russell will fix it. We will render it in the different positions ASAP as well. Definitely need to - just a bit maxed out at the moment.

I don't know what you mean by "half".

Perhaps the bottom of the module is radiused to accommodate those who wanted to be able to run the module at 45* angles since the "star" at the front of the module has 8 lobes (360*/8=45*), but ran at warp left or warp right, the rounded bottom will now be at a side position and the sides of the body are flat, not rounded. Once you see it rendered at a warp left you'll see the funk.

[secretweaponevan]

Edit.......double post........Beemer was here

[micromag-man]

Tracy, Forrest, Zoom.

I know there are a few that would like it to be tweaked this way or that and i respect their needs and wants in hopes that the final product will be great. I just want to take a moment to say THANKS.

Thanks for taking the time to develop this.

Thank you for listening to the original idea.

Thanks for coming this far.

Thanks for creating something that has caused many to become excited.

Thanks for all the extra effort, time, and patience with this.

OVERALL, just a big THANK YOU

Thanks!

[Dend78]

I don't know what you mean by "half".

Perhaps the bottom of the module is radiused to accommodate those who wanted to be able to run the module at 45* angles since the "star" at the front of the module has 8 lobes (360*/8=45*), but ran at warp left or warp right, the rounded bottom will now be at a side position and the sides of the body are flat, not rounded. Once you see it rendered at a warp left you'll see the funkiness.

i believe they are talking the Polish half

secretweaponevan
only Half polish

[MANN]

Hey - it's Forest. We will use as many of the Airgun specs as possible to make life easier. We are pulling a lot of those numbers from the TAC ONE although we are putting it on a diet. I would have to go in and pull the exact numbers from a drawing, but that's pretty much where we are.

We are so-so on the washer with clip and are planning on a simple pressed in washer design (not the standard Micro one).

On/off pins are always a bit personal when it comes to any valve or body and/or degree of reactive trigger that you want. We will keep you in the ballpark and you tweak.

The gold ano was done by our secondary anodizer who does our polishing. I'm still a little concerned about polishing this run of bodies and possibly having some tolerance issues. We'll have a sit down with them and discuss it in any case. "Production" polishing isn't always as good as "custom" work either. We'll look at all of the options.

Thanks for the update

Im glad to hear it will be rt length.

Will the simple pressed in washer be removable/ reusable (I question this because I will more than likely want to anno/reanno it.)

[secretweaponevan]

i believe they are talking the Polish half

secretweaponevan
only Half polish

LOL! And I scrutinized my post looking for me mentioning half of the module/body.
Viva la Poland!

[Engus]

Thanks for the update

Im glad to hear it will be rt length.

I think you may be a little confused. its tac1 specs as far as sear and not needing a spacer for an emag, but the body is not as long as a rt rail.

[Ruler_Mark]

Did you guys think about posisitoning the detent on the top left or right edge that is at a 45* to the feedneck hole?(the cut edge on the top) possibly doing a thin wire detent like the 02/03 vikings but shorter? then if cut right wont run into issues with L or R sides detent hitting the body.. Also never was answered is there going to be UL'ing under the boddy where the frame merrys?