Introducing the Micromag 2009

[Henchman]

So, I just got off the phone with AGD, and it seems that my 2k9 is not made correctly.
Even with the metal ring nt installed, the valve is too far back to tune properly. Anything over about 200-220, it starts venting air out the back because it needs to be turned up way too much. The same valve then transferred to a tac me shoots at 340 or so.

Anybody else had this problem with a PTP 2k9?

[Redic]

So, I just got off the phone with AGD, and it seems that my 2k9 is not made correctly.
Even with the metal ring nt installed, the valve is too far back to tune properly. Anything over about 200-220, it starts venting air out the back because it needs to be turned up way too much. The same valve then transferred to a tac me shoots at 340 or so.

Anybody else had this problem with a PTP 2k9?

Yep I have the emag.version that will not work on any of my emag lowers ( I have 4 )

[Henchman]

Yep I have the emag.version that will not work on any of my emag lowers ( I have 4 )

Any idea why?
I am new to the 2k9

[luke]

So, I just got off the phone with AGD, and it seems that my 2k9 is not made correctly.

Anybody else had this problem with a PTP 2k9?

Why did you call AGD? It is made by ProTeam Products.

[Henchman]

Why did you call AGD? It is made by ProTeam Products.

I didn't.
I sent the whole gun the to get tuned. As I thought there might be something wrong with the x-valve, as it was venting out the back befor Eli could get it up to a decent fps.
What I found interesting, is that this was the first time he had ever seen me.
And according to him, its simply not designed to proper spec.
After trying to figure out why the gun could not get up to a proper FPS bere venting out the back, he seems to be fvthe opinion, that the bolt can not go in far enough.

[Henchman]

I received an email from ptp, and they say the the on/off pin length is critical.
Which makes no sense to me.
The length of the pin, has no bearing on the FPS.

[Frizzle Fry]

I received an email from ptp, and they say the the on/off pin length is critical.
Which makes no sense to me.
The length of the pin, has no bearing on the FPS.

It does have a bearing on where the pin rests while the marker is aired up. That, combined with spring choice, could have a pronounced effect on your setup and make it very difficult to get the marker shooting properly.

[Henchman]

It does have a bearing on where the pin rests while the marker is aired up. That, combined with spring choice, could have a pronounced effect on your setup and make it very difficult to get the marker shooting properly.

It's not about shooting properly.
Dave was able together it shooting fine. Bit only at about 220.
Exact same valve, same spring, different body, instead of 220, it's shooting at 340.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the on will determine wether it shoots and rested properly.
It has nothing todo with the fps.

[Frizzle Fry]

It's not about shooting properly.
Dave was able together it shooting fine. Bit only at about 220.
Exact same valve, same spring, different body, instead of 220, it's shooting at 340.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the on will determine wether it shoots and rested properly.
It has nothing todo with the fps.

Yes it does - the "fps" as you call it, or the velocity of the paintball when fired, is determined by the input pressure from your tank regulator, and the input pressure from the marker regulator, and the length of the spring - if you want to get your marker to fire consistently at a lower velocity (<250fps) you need to install the shortest spring possible, for very high velocity (>325fps) you generally need the largest spring possible. The longer springs tend to be softer on paint and the shorter ones more rough (can make tuning more difficult at the extremes). With an aftermarket body, different spring setups might be needed as the tolerances can differ.

As for the pin, different lengths and different trigger setups can cause your marker to leak down the barrel or out the back depending on where it rests when the marker is aired up. Have you or the tech (is Dave Zupan doing it himself?) tried different lengths?

When I switch the valve from my Xmag body to a ULE, I need to use a different spring. When I just chuck it in there, it hisses and pisses until I change the spring and adjust the pressure (and of course adjust the sear pin). Same with many Micros, including the 2009.

The only "problem" with my Emicro 2009 is that it doesn't work properly with the stock Emag on/off pin.

[OPBN]

I have an Xvalve in my MM2K9 and have not had a single issue with FPS. It reached it before and after the install of the steel insert.

[Henchman]

Dave was teching it himself

Yes, I understand the importance of the on/off pin as it relates to the actual firing and operating of the gun.
I also understand the change in fps and the various springs used.
But the length f the pin on/off does not effect the operation pressure.

I have been using the gold sprng.
If the valve works fine in one gun, and then needs to be cranked to the point of air shooting out the back, just to get it to operate at the same pressure, using the same spring, then obviously there is an issue with the body.

Unless theres something I'm not understanding.

I also know that there were other people with this issue.

[Frizzle Fry]

Dave was teching it himself

Yes, I understand the importance of the on/off pin as it relates to the actual firing and operating of the gun.
I also understand the change in fps and the various springs used.
But the length f the pin on/off does not effect the operation pressure.

I have been using the gold sprng.
If the valve works fine in one gun, and then needs to be cranked to the point of air shooting out the back, just to get it to operate at the same pressure, using the same spring, then obviously there is an issue with the body.

Unless theres something I'm not understanding.

I also know that there were other people with this issue.

I'm going to shut up after saying two things.

First off, YES, I will say it again, from one gun to another you will almost always have to make adjustments especially when going with a different rail/body combo, and that <strike>might mean</strike> often means switching springs to get it shooting properly.

Second, there can be an issue of the steel ring being improperly installed which can cause a whole plethora of issues - see all previous posts by Russell.

[Ando]

Frizz...you have a few flaws in your thinking. He'd also have to be pretty dumb to install a flat washer sideways in the marker.

And Hench. Send that thing to PTP. Let them deal with their problem and come out with a solution for it.

I wouldn't waist another min on it. They at the least owe you that much for the delay from hell.

[Frizzle Fry]

Frizz...you have a few flaws in your thinking. He'd also have to be pretty dumb to install a flat washer sideways in the marker.

And Hench. Send that thing to PTP. Let them deal with their problem and come out with a solution for it.

I wouldn't waist another min on it. They at the least owe you that much for the delay from hell.

What flaws might those be? Anybody else been shooting automags since their inception who has had to spring down to reach lower functional velocity, or had to switch springs when switching bodies?

Also, the "flat" washer has is about 1/2" thick and has two sides, one with a recessed opening and the other completely flat. If its installed backwards, it will not work properly. Also, if it is pressed into place incorrectly, and is not perfectly straight, it will not work properly and there is really no fixing it. There's a reason those who requested a washer be shipped to them rather than having it be installed were given a full disclaimer and were offered installation service.

By the way I'm fairly sure Henchman wasn't around for the pre-order.

[4rpp]

sear prob

If your bolt is not resetting behind the sear every time (getting stuck) it is probably the same probably I had. The sear is sitting to high in the valve area even with the plunger at the shortest setting. I had to mod my sear (cut some off). A stronger spring will force it back but you will end up with damage in the top of your body from the bolt like I did until I figured out what was happening. When I install my emag frame on my tac body and emag rail the sear sits much lower in the vale hole. Then when I move it to my ptp body the sear is way up in the valve hole. This also caused damage to my bolt as it was riding over the sear. It looks like the sear pin is closer to the valve hole then a normal body rail combo. is this normal for minimags or are the sear pin rail thickness valve hole distances suppose to be the same?