XMOD BETA Testers ONLY (Questions/Comments)

[mpsd]

Fix Ajustment

Actually yes, it is a verry bad thing because it means that you have absolutely no shot buffer. By lowering the FIX you will be able to shoot much faster and should notice that your strings are much more consistent.

Thanks, Lorne. I'll try lowering it on thursday, when I'll be selling my not-needed-anymore Shocker SFT 03. I'll give you some input after it to say what results I had. Thanks again for your support,

Mendel.

PS: And remember that next week we start a new soccer (or football for non-americans) show in Germany. Brazil is running for it's sixth Worldwide Championship!!!

[GoblinGreen]

After putting about 12000 rounds through my emag with Xmod software in normal semi mode. I have noticed some wear on my bolt, around the edge where the sear catches.

It looks a bit rough, but still works no problem, my sear looks perfect. I remember Big Evil saying he noticed wear on his bolt, What was the outcome?
My Emag still works perfectly and the wear on the bolt looks bad but not enough to damage the internal of the marker body. My on/off pin still looks perfect as well.

I have put 3000 rounds through it since I noticed the wear on the bolt , but it doesn't seem to be getting worse. I will keep playing with it in the meantime and update in a few weeks.

[BigEvil]

After putting about 12000 rounds through my emag with Xmod software in normal semi mode. I have noticed some wear on my bolt, around the edge where the sear catches.

It looks a bit rough, but still works no problem, my sear looks perfect. I remember Big Evil saying he noticed wear on his bolt, What was the outcome?
My Emag still works perfectly and the wear on the bolt looks bad but not enough to damage the internal of the marker body. My on/off pin still looks perfect as well.

I have put 3000 rounds through it since I noticed the wear on the bolt , but it doesn't seem to be getting worse. I will keep playing with it in the meantime and update in a few weeks.

I think that the only wear that we should be concerned about is on the inside lip of the bolt, not the outside. Thats where I was seeing it. Im not sure if that is normal or not. I did however up my dwell on my Xmag to 18 and my Etac to 20. (I use the xmag for speedball and shoot faster with it)

If you are getting wear on the onside lip then definately up your dwell. What do you have it at? Too much meat missing from that area will cause your bolt to not seal when it closes.

Remember though, wear in that area is normal. Eventually, EVERY BOLT will wear on that lip. Guns generally go 100k-120k shot before parts like that need to be replaced.

[pbzmag]

Well, played over the weekend at a scenario game. Couldn't really test it out as I was having tolerance issues. Every few shots ended as a chuff. No problem shooting manual though. Loosening my barrel would reset the LX bolt. Bolt and on/off pin fully oiled. However, I do have to send it in to AGD to get my sear replaced. It has a broken pin. While in the shop, I have them do a maintenance check. My settings were:

semi
rof 18-20
dwell - 13
FIX - 18
tank 750-800

[BigEvil]

Well, played over the weekend at a scenario game. Couldn't really test it out as I was having tolerance issues. Every few shots ended as a chuff. No problem shooting manual though. Loosening my barrel would reset the LX bolt. Bolt and on/off pin fully oiled. However, I do have to send it in to AGD to get my sear replaced. It has a broken pin. While in the shop, I have them do a maintenance check. My settings were:

semi
rof 18-20
dwell - 13
FIX - 18
tank 750-800

DId you check the spec on the noid plunder? It is critical that it be the correct length.

[pbzmag]

I made sure that it was 3.005 according to BlackVCG's sticky.

[LorneCash]

Well, played over the weekend at a scenario game. Couldn't really test it out as I was having tolerance issues. Every few shots ended as a chuff. No problem shooting manual though. Loosening my barrel would reset the LX bolt. Bolt and on/off pin fully oiled. However, I do have to send it in to AGD to get my sear replaced. It has a broken pin. While in the shop, I have them do a maintenance check. My settings were:

semi
rof 18-20
dwell - 13
FIX - 18
tank 750-800

FYI you're never going to get 18bps with 750 input and getting 18bps with 800psi may be a trick. I'd set your ROF at 15 and leave it until you get a higher output tank. I'd make a bet that the reason for your chuff's was your low input pressure. Doesn't sound to me like a plunger issue but it could be. Borrow a tank from a friend if you have to just to test and eliminate the possibility.

[pbzmag]

I have a flatline 3k. Last time I played was early April and had it set to 750-800. I wasn't having problems back then and I did shoot hybrid mode without any problems until I was running low on air. This was also with Q4.0. When I did get XMOD, I was also able to dryfire hybrid without any chuffs and set to 750-800. The only difference now is the bad sear that broke a few days later when playing with full auto, hybrid, and hyper. The last time I remember chuffing, I had to tork down the front screw or the field strip screw. I couldn't tork down the screws since I was at the field at that time.

edit: I'm also using a Halo B. Weather was also 95-105 w/breeze at the time. Also forgot to mention that I was also experiencing boltstick. Even when testing with the 1500 PSI left in my tank a day after the scenario game. Once it comes back from AGD with a new sear, I will test it out again.

[Beemer]

FYI you're never going to get 18bps with 750 input and getting 18bps with 800psi may be a trick. I'd set your ROF at 15 and leave it until you get a higher output tank. I'd make a bet that the reason for your chuff's was your low input pressure.

Is this 20BPS? Classic Valve LVL10 bolt. About 800psi or less.

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper1.avi

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper2.avi

From here. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=196472

[LorneCash]

Is this 20BPS? Classic Valve LVL10 bolt. About 800psi or less.

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper1.avi

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper2.avi

From here. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=196472

I don't have time to watch those vids now but allow me to clarify a bit. There is a fine relationship between input pressure and flow rate, but the only thing we can measure or is commonly measured is input pressure. Just as an example... If the gun fires once on 500psi then hypothetically it should be able to shoot infinitely fast on 500psi if the flow rate is high enough... the problem is that how do you get a highenough flow rate without increasing the input pressure. All I'm saying is that some of that may be dependent on the type of regulator. Some regs may work fine at slightly sower psi's but most need more since they are not exactly engineered for extreemly high flow rates.

[mpsd]

Huge problem!! Seriously, need help!

Hi, everyone.

I desperatetly need your help and expertise. I went to play the weekend before the last one and, during play, my e-Mag stopped shooting in electronic modes. It worked normally in mech mode but, when turned it to electronic, I could hear the solenoid working but the gun wouldn't shoot at all. I tryed modifying my set-up (Dwel, Fix and ROF) but it just wouldn't work.

I brought it home, opened the valve, checked my o-rings, coils and everything. Nothing seemed out, so I re-oiled it and went to play again last sunday. Again, the Mag wouldn't shoot in electronic mode.

What do you think? Is it possible I may have a problem with my solenoid?

My input pressure on the Max Flo Inline is set at 1000 psi and I also sent it to a review during last week. Changed only the on-off o-ring.

Help me, please!!!

Thanks and regards,

Mendel.

[BigEvil]

whenever the gun will not fire in "E" mode, always suspect that the length of the solenoid plunger is out of spec. Lornecash shows how to measure it in the manual. They have a tendency to loosen up and spin freely, usually making the length shorter.

If it gets too short, there isnt enough of it inside the solenoid for it to pull on. It should also move very freely. Sometimes they get bent by people forgetting to remove the axel pin and yanking up on it.

It it IS in spec and still wont fire, the noid could be bad. Go through the usual checks, loose or broken wires, ect.

[mpsd]

whenever the gun will not fire in "E" mode, always suspect that the length of the solenoid plunger is out of spec. Lornecash shows how to measure it in the manual. They have a tendency to loosen up and spin freely, usually making the length shorter.

If it gets too short, there isnt enough of it inside the solenoid for it to pull on. It should also move very freely. Sometimes they get bent by people forgetting to remove the axel pin and yanking up on it.

It it IS in spec and still wont fire, the noid could be bad. Go through the usual checks, loose or broken wires, ect.

Being a Systems Engineer, I'm very ashamed to admit that I did have a loose wire...
Aparently, one of the battery's wires had a bad contact...

The good thing is that my Mag is rocking again!!! Thanks, BigEvil, for your prompt and correct input.

Still, concerning the solenoid, do you guys do any knid of maintanance to your solenoids?

Now, I do have another question, not related to this first one (I got this idea, while checking my mag): did any of you tryed changing the original battery for another one, smaller or lighter, brought from a digital or video camera, cell phone etc?

I know that the Airgun's battery is rated at 16.8V and 650mAH.

Thanks again,

Mendel.

[BigEvil]

Now, I do have another question, not related to this first one (I got this idea, while checking my mag): did any of you tryed changing the original battery for another one, smaller or lighter, brought from a digital or video camera, cell phone etc?

I know that the Airgun's battery is rated at 16.8V and 650mAH.

Thanks again,

Mendel.

Can you find one that is rated for the same power?

Probably best to post this up in a seperate thread...................

[StygShore]

like this?

like this one?

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=199253

Doesn't seem to be getting a whole lot of responses though.

I might send my battery in to get it checked out over te winter and see if the plac eI found can reproduce the same batery for a backup, and maybe produce another battery with better performance that is lighter.

The equivalent of 2 9v in the batterypack would be perfect

Why in the world sis AGD go with a non standard battery in the first place? 2 9v seems like it would have been a smarter option.


Styg