more info on RT

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  • snoopay700
    Serious About Men

    • Jan 2006
    • 3071
    #76
    Originally posted by marked74
    Tried that, and they still wouldn't budge (?) I actually damaged the brass part of the on/off enough so that it won't fit all the way back into the valve. Can't necessarily see it in my cheap digi pics, but the edge of the smooth face of it is pushed out to the side a bit - I'm thinking that's why it won't fit. I don't really want to force it into the vavle opening...
    You may need a new on/off from airgun.com, i mean if it won't twist apart (and i think there's an o-ring inside there, it's been years since i've taken my RT apart) then you may just need to buy a new one, which really would suck. The new ones are both brass though, so maybe that'll make them twist better (well both halves of mine are brass at least).
    Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.

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      • marked74
        Registered Freak
        • Jul 2005
        • 61
        #77
        ok GOOD NEWS! I managed to fix my on/off AND separate it to get a new o-ring in. For the record, the RT on/off is threaded together. There are holes in the sides of the bottom half. I don't know why I didn't think of this before ( ) but I used one of my straight picks to go through both holes to hold the bottom half while wrenching (3/8" in case anyone's looking) on the top half. Came right apart. Got the insides cleaned out and a new o-ring in there, and went to seeing what I could do with the roughed-up brass. I had some 1200 grit (really fine, probably body shop grade) sandpaper I use for painting/finishing guitar effects pedals. This worked wonders on the brass! Even with the fine grit, you have to go light with it. You can actually see the yellowish marks on the sandpaper where the brass came off. Anyway I smoothed out the rough edges where the brass had been pushed out by my teeth. It's probably a few thousandths smaller in that spot than it used to be, but as was pointed out the whole thing is sealed with o-rings. After that I got the valve re-assembled and got my Lvl 10 carrier/shim combo tuned up according to directions. Next step is spring tuning and making sure it actually works consistently. Of course in the process of connecting and disconnecting the bottle so many times, and having it on while the valve was leaking etc. I'm nearly out of air...

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          • athomas
            Of course it works-its AGD
            • Jan 2002
            • 8039
            #78
            Originally posted by marked74
            ok GOOD NEWS! I managed to fix my on/off AND separate it to get a new o-ring in. For the record, the RT on/off is threaded together. There are holes in the sides of the bottom half. I don't know why I didn't think of this before ( ) but I used one of my straight picks to go through both holes to hold the bottom half while wrenching (3/8" in case anyone's looking) on the top half.
            Yes, it is threaded. I don't know how I forgot that tidbit of information. I should have been more on the ball with that one. I'm glad you pointed it out. The holes are actually in the top part and the square part that accepts the wrench is the bottom part. There is also a flat section on the top part that allows a wrench so that you don't have to risk warping the holes. The halves are named according to how they sit while the valve is in the upright position in the mag body.

            I'm glad you got it apart without much damage. I would have felt bad if you had damaged it due to our misinformation.
            Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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              • trevorjk
                <S>WooLooLoo</S>
                • Dec 2002
                • 4324
                #79
                now get some air! then we can help you fine tune the lx :)
                t33kyboy "So if a cat is dropped from 11 inches, it will most likely die."

                  Comment

                  • marked74
                    Registered Freak
                    • Jul 2005
                    • 61
                    #80
                    Thanks! I should have realized that about the top and bottom halves. I was thinking the square part was the top since it was the topmost part while I was working on the valve - which was upside down on the bench area so I could get at the on/off :)

                    You're right too about the flat part on the top (brass) half - I just didn't have a working adjustable wrench to use on it. The size is strange - none of my large collection of metric and standard sockets or wrenches would fit. The only thing that'll work in my experience is an adjustable. If I had one that would open, then I wouldn't have tried my teeth, and then I wouldn't have munged up the brass. Just a note to anyone else working on a valve for the first time.

                    Going to try to get to the shop tonight to get aired up. They're closed Monday-Tuesday which stinks because I had time then... I did salvage enough air out of the bottle to tune my carrier and shims appropriately (so I hope) and make sure I didn't have any otehr leaks in my setup with all of the new o-rings. There's still 600-800 psi in the bottle according to the guage, but I'd rather work with at least 1000 so I know I'm getting gull pressure out of it. I am so close I can taste it

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