One for the Pros to venture forth on. XMT Body not getting into the rhythm.

[XtraKargo]

They seem to be the only two with symptoms.

The frame screw is one that I doctored a while back to make sure the fit correctly in my AGD ULE body. I sanded the threads down some, and then on some of my projects I have had to make sure the Rail and the Body fit snug at the front and back. So the fit on the XMT to the rail is tight.

I can cater to some testing, even thou it is limited to what I have. There is a Minimag that is pretty much stock. And another twistlock style mag with a retro valve. Mostly Eclipse splash parts except for the SS body.

I can just hammer the body with the X-valve for a while as well and see if it gets better. I haven't moved the LVL7 to the X-Valve yet.

[XtraKargo]

Crank your velocity way up and keep firing it. See if it goes away after a while and then lower your velocity to normal. Ive seen similar issues on new Xmag breeches. You would see some wear on the inside where the bolt would rub slightly. Once you saw where it was rubbing, you could polish it out with some emery cloth.

How many shots you thinking, cause eventually my wife will want to shoot me with it from all the racket...

[XtraKargo]

So the problem follows the XMT body and X-Valve? Without those two together, everything works as it should? Am I understanding that correctly? Does the classic valve have a Level 7 or 10?

Tested this morning and here is the sequence of events.

Removed the Classic Valve from the Minimag - inserted the X- Valve - tested fine.
Removed the Minimag Body and twistlock pin - set the XMT Body on - inserted the X-Valve - FIRED A SINGLE SHOT AND FROZE... Trigger has pressure, and the bolt returned and stopped.
Removed the X-Valve and inserted the Classic Valve - tested fine.

This was all on the standard mag rail - with a standard sear - no pneu involved.

Just posting this for food for thought. (I have yet to measure the Retro Valve pin.)

[nak81783]

Good information.

Still need confirmation if Classic valve has Level 7 or 10, please.

Was that single shot intentional, or did it do that when you first aired it up (regardless if you were holding the trigger back upon airing up)?

When froze and the trigger still had pressure, was the gap between the trigger rod and back of trigger what it normally would be (typically credit card thickness), or was the gap larger (i.e. was there only trigger pressure towards the back of the trigger pull?

[XtraKargo]

Good information.

Still need confirmation if Classic valve has Level 7 or 10, please.
LVL7 - truly classic.

Was that single shot intentional, or did it do that when you first aired it up (regardless if you were holding the trigger back upon airing up)?
It was intentional, I didn't hold the trigger down when airing up.
When froze and the trigger still had pressure, was the gap between the trigger rod and back of trigger what it normally would be (typically credit card thickness), or was the gap larger (i.e. was there only trigger pressure towards the back of the trigger pull?
No it was larger, and rather than change the sear pin length, I used a small allen wrench to fill the gap and tried again to fire. No luck.

Thanks again for checking in on this one.

[nak81783]

Well, let's continue to isolate variables. On the std rail/sear, non-pneumatic setup, and XMT body, try the following:

1. Put the Level 7 in the X-Valve. What happens?

2. Put the Level 10 in the Classic valve. What happens?

3. Put the RT on/off assembly in the Classic valve. What happens?

4. I've never done this, so think it through first. Put the Classic on/off assembly in the X-Valve. What happens? I don't remember what the different pieces to the Classic on/off are made of. Worst case I can think of is you get a few scratches in the on/off hole of the X-Valve, but the orings and careful installation should prevent this.

[XtraKargo]

Here goes.


X valve with LVL 7 froze. Not a single shot.

Classic with the lvl10. Cycled fine.

Bolts left alone from here on out.

Classic with lvl10 and rt on off. Back to the same as the video. Cycles and pauses before reseting.

X valve with level7 and reactor on off (I don't think I have a stock On/Off to the classic, and this dropped right in) leaked down the barrel but cycled as fine. Almost as fast as I could pull a mech trigger.

[nak81783]

What are the lengths of the RT and Reactor pins? It's OK if you don't have calipers. Just lay them side by side, and if there is any difference whatsoever, tell us which is longer how many Level 10 shims it takes to make up the difference in length.

Also, on the RT pin, what's the length of the head (as closely as you can measure with whatever measurement tool you have)?

Oh, and I can't get the video to work. It just takes me to some pictures on photobucket. I tried it on my iPhone and two computers.

[XtraKargo]

What are the lengths of the RT and Reactor pins? It's OK if you don't have calipers. Just lay them side by side, and if there is any difference whatsoever, tell us which is longer how many Level 10 shims it takes to make up the difference in length.

Also, on the RT pin, what's the length of the head (as closely as you can measure with whatever measurement tool you have)?

Oh, and I can't get the video to work. It just takes me to some pictures on photobucket. I tried it on my iPhone and two computers.

Looks to be the same to me.

[OPBN]

Looks to be the same to me.

Is it just me or does the pin on the left look bent?

[nak81783]

I'm guessing that's an optical illusion. Plus, it cycled in the Classic valve, which is exerting less force than the X-Valve. I would think any binding from a slight bend wouldn't have worked in the Classic valve.

Open up the two halves of the RT on/off assembly. Anything inside that shouldn't be?

[XtraKargo]

It seems to lean some when stood on end. Maybe it is but it does seem to line up and do the job.

[XtraKargo]

I'm guessing that's an optical illusion. Plus, it cycled in the Classic valve, which is exerting less force than the X-Valve. I would think any binding from a slight bend wouldn't have worked in the Classic valve.

Open up the two halves of the RT on/off assembly. Anything inside that shouldn't be?

Not really. It looks good to me. The bottom has some wear on the outside. But nothing major.

[OPBN]

The RT in the classic had issues as well as in the X. On/off seems to be the culprit. Where the shaft meets the larger section looks bent.

[nak81783]

You're right. I didn't thoroughly read the answers to my own questions. Good catch.