Brand new to automags !

[Cyco-Dude]

unless the o-ring that goes on the regulator adjustment nut (just a standard barrel o-ring) is somehow not there, there is no way it's backing itself out. a low velocity shot could be user-error (usually as a result of someone new to automags shooting too quickly and short-stroking the trigger), it could be a misfeed or a partial roll-out though too. or it could just be a smaller sized paintball. if it's just one shot, i would lean more towards the paintball and not worry about it. if the velocity gradually decreases after every shot, then goes back up after you sit for 30 seconds or so and drops again when you resume firing, that's the valve. i'd probably double-check the regulator seat o-ring to make sure there is no dirt or debris in there if that was the case.

[Maveric08]

Awesome info ! The string of a hundred or so balls was laser but something definitely started to effect velocity. Maybe it has to do with the on off Asa or the tank ? I'll check the regulator seat o ring maybe the oil pushed some left over crud through. The gage on the tank says I still have 2000psi so I'd assume I'd still be in good shape there.
The killa detents are magnetic right ? Is that just for ease of maintaining or is that how they actually hold the ball in like a magnetic field. .... "Never mind no way it's that "
If I shim the trigger won't I need a longer trigger pin ? And where does one find shims ?

[Maveric08]

Any way to add the ule trigger kit to an rt ?
Mine on that double trigger seems really long

[Cyco-Dude]

Any way to add the ule trigger kit to an rt ?
Mine on that double trigger seems really long

no, the the ule on/off is only for x-valves and some newer emag / rt pro valves. some people have had their valves milled to accept it though, but i wouldn't recommend using it with a benchmark frame. the benchmark frame contacts the trigger rod much closer to the pivot than other frames, giving you more leverage which results in an easier trigger pull. with the ult, it might be too soft and make it easier to short-stroke. i guess i could test it though and see for myself.

gas your gun up, put the safety on and pull the trigger. as long as the trigger rod does not contact the back of the trigger, it should be fine. it's just a different design than other frames is all.

[athomas]

If I shim the trigger won't I need a longer trigger pin ? And where does one find shims ?

No. The shim only fills the gap that already exists beside the trigger. You can order shims at specialty hardware stores, online, or you can make some yourself using shim stock.

The killa detents use magnets instead of a spring to hold the detent out toward the ball. You can adjust the tension by adjusting how close the outer magnet is to the inner one.

[justin82]

Im glad you bought that! If i looked at it one more time... lol

[justin82]

A cheaper option for high pressure ( for me in canada anyways) was a used myth g3 reg and a hp spring kit,the kit was 11 bucks i think.. insane rof at around 950 psi

[Maveric08]

How does a higher tank out put pressure increase trigger bounce if before the air actually gets anywhere the pressure is reduced by the automags reg ?

[nak81783]

An RT/X-Valve uses unregulated air to reset the trigger and fill the chamber. It is regulated as it fills, not before. This is how RT/X-Valves differ from Classic valves.

[Maveric08]

Ok update. Bought a chrono battery and velocity is jumping all over as well as the leak is back if I turn the velocity up to 288ish there is a leak out the back of the reg. if I turn it down it stops but the chronoed velocity when it isn't leaking is around 245 -260 also either the banjo is STILL leaking again or it sounds like a leak could be coming from around the vertical feed somewhere. I'll prolly just replace every o ring on the thing but wanted to check and see if there was anything else specific I should be on the look out for

[Maveric08]

Completely disassembled gun I don't think it has a level 10 bolt kit like it was supposed to. The spring on the bolt looks exactly the same as an rt bolt spring. The brass valve between the reg and the valve has three small o rings the middle one appears to be missing a piece

[nak81783]

http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/manual.shtml

Please go here. Use the RT blow up diagram to get the proper terms. It will help us help you.

Also, page 13 of the RT ULE/Tac-1 manual shows the Level 7 and Level 10 bolt configurations. The one with more pieces is the Level 10.

If it's venting out the back when trying to achieve higher velocity, it's probably an older style regulator piston. You need a newer, higher pressure one to work with the Level 10, since it works at a higher pressure than the Level 7.

Level 7s and 10s can both use the same springs, so don't worry about that. Let us know if you have a Level 10, and we can direct you to a post on how to tune it.

[Maveric08]

Out of air and I probably made it worse. Any one know how much tuna man charges ?

[Cyco-Dude]

do you mean the middle o-ring on the banjo bolt is missing a piece? if so, that would certainly cause it to leak lol.

it's kind of a pain to change the banjo bolt o-rings. if the middle o-ring needs to be changed, get it off, and move the o-ring closest to the threads up to the middle spot. then install a new o-ring in the groove closest to the threads.

[Maveric08]

My bolt does have the extra piece that's kind of like a nipple coming out the back. But it doesn't appear to have all those other parts either.