** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[sup909]

I just installed the LVL 10 on my Classic 68 after replacing the Piston assembly. I put it back together, gassed it up. I have no leaks, the bolt "clicks" under the pressure, I can feel the air against the trigger. However when I pull the trigger nothing happens.

Any thoughts?

EDIT: Ok I cranked up the velocity ALOT to where the screw is 1 turn from being all the way in. However there is a very slight leak out the back. It can't be the regulator piston assembly can it? That is brand new.

Also I did the squeegee test and it only seemed to work when there was significant pressure to push against the bolt. I don't think a fragile ball will stop the bolt. Am I just paranoid here or should it be fairly easy to stop the bolt after this installation?

So I have been able to fix the leak. I switched out the spring to a smaller one and the leak is gone. Yet another problem seems to have arisen however. The bolt fires fine when I don't have a hopper on the marker or any balls being fed. However, now when I feed ANY balls into the marker the bolt stops and fents as if it is anti-chopping. It will keep doing this trigger pull after trigger pull. I cannot get it to actually fire a ball. The bolt does reset.

I have tried 0-3 shims in there. Don't know what to adjust or tweak now, any help?

[athomas]

The bolt fires fine when I don't have a hopper on the marker or any balls being fed. However, now when I feed ANY balls into the marker the bolt stops and fents as if it is anti-chopping. It will keep doing this trigger pull after trigger pull. I cannot get it to actually fire a ball. The bolt does reset.

That means you don't have enough pressure to push the bolt forward with a ball in front of it. To fix this, all you need to do is increase the velocity setting. The fact that it vents and then resets when it does this means your level 10 is setup with the proper carrier and shims.

[sup909]

That means you don't have enough pressure to push the bolt forward with a ball in front of it. To fix this, all you need to do is increase the velocity setting. The fact that it vents and then resets when it does this means your level 10 is setup with the proper carrier and shims.

If you read the part where I quoted my own post above. The problem is that it then leaks out the back and I am near one turn to having the velocity screw all the way in. I seem to be stuck between a rock and a hard place. Putting in the smallest spring allowed me to turn back the velocity screw about a 1/4" turn to stop the leak, yet still fire.

[athomas]

If you read the part where I quoted my own post above. The problem is that it then leaks out the back and I am near one turn to having the velocity screw all the way in. I seem to be stuck between a rock and a hard place. Putting in the smallest spring allowed me to turn back the velocity screw about a 1/4" turn to stop the leak, yet still fire.

That sounds like your regulator piston assembly is weak. Are you sure you have a new regulator piston assembly in there?

[sup909]

That sounds like your regulator piston assembly is weak. Are you sure you have a new regulator piston assembly in there?

Yup, brand new. Order it two weeks ago. It is silver colored rather then the brass color the original one was. Would a larger carrier help with a new o-ring on it?

[athomas]

Yup, brand new. Order it two weeks ago. It is silver colored rather then the brass color the original one was. Would a larger carrier help with a new o-ring on it?

If you can get a larger carrier on there, then definately do it. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims while doing this. Try a new white carrier oring just in case the old one has a blemish that is giving a false size setting, tricking you into using a carrier that is too tight. Make sure the bolt slide freely in the powertube.

What kind of barrel are you using? Maybe it is off centered causing excessive friction.

[jmcclung]

SPEED PROBLEM - cannot turn up past 250 fps

I just bought and installed the level 10 on my minimag with an AIR valve. The bolt is installed correctly (at least i think it is), but i cannot get it to fire any faster than 250 bps (i just had it chronoed as fast as i could turn it up). The shop did not know what the problem was but they told me that the bold had been installed correctly. I am using the shortest bolt spring. Any one else have this problem? I called the AGD tech line and they are closed and the message said they weren't open on fridays, and since i want to play this weekend with my new bolt, i figured this was the best place to turn. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
JM

[athomas]

I just bought and installed the level 10 on my minimag with an AIR valve. The bolt is installed correctly (at least i think it is), but i cannot get it to fire any faster than 250 bps (i just had it chronoed as fast as i could turn it up). The shop did not know what the problem was but they told me that the bold had been installed correctly. I am using the shortest bolt spring. Any one else have this problem? I called the AGD tech line and they are closed and the message said they weren't open on fridays, and since i want to play this weekend with my new bolt, i figured this was the best place to turn. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
JM

Take the velocity adjuster cap off and put a couple of washers inside, then put it back on. This will allow you to increase your velocity setting. Hopefully, the older minimag regulator piston assembly will allow you to reach a high enough pressure without leaking out the back. It should be ok with the the short spring installed. If it does leak , you will need a new high pressure piston assembly.

Edit: I read the other post that you wrote. If the velocity can't be turned up due to venting out the back, then you need a new regulator piston assembly. The new ones are set to a higher working pressure so they work better with the level 10 setups. If this is the case, don't worry about the washers. They only help if the velocity adjuster bottoms out before you reach a desired setting.

[sup909]

If you can get a larger carrier on there, then definately do it. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims while doing this. Try a new white carrier oring just in case the old one has a blemish that is giving a false size setting, tricking you into using a carrier that is too tight. Make sure the bolt slide freely in the powertube.

What kind of barrel are you using? Maybe it is off centered causing excessive friction.

I have attempted installing a larger carrier size. I have now experimented with carrier sizes 1.5-3.0 with no resolution to the problem. A 3.5 carrier leaks out the front, and with all of the other carriers the bolt vents regardless of if there is a ball in there or not.

Have tried with multiple carrier o-rings and with a combination of 0-4 shims in all of the above carrier sizes.

I am completely lost at this point. Am I going to have to send this in to AGD?

[secretweaponevan]

I have attempted installing a larger carrier size. I have now experimented with carrier sizes 1.5-3.0 with no resolution to the problem. A 3.5 carrier leaks out the front, and with all of the other carriers the bolt vents regardless of if there is a ball in there or not.

Have tried with multiple carrier o-rings and with a combination of 0-4 shims in all of the above carrier sizes.

I am completely lost at this point. Am I going to have to send this in to AGD?

Start with a 2.0 carrier and a new carrier o-ring, fire ~1000 shots to break in the o-ring and use oil.
As stated by athomas, then use the largest carrier that doesn't leak (use the broken-in o-ring in the new carrier).
Don't use shims until you get it firing (and then only if you get bolt stick).
Only finger-tighten the field strip screw.
Tune without using a barrel in case your barrel is whacked.

It will feel like a lot of force if you put the squeegie down the barrel, but not if you just stick it down the feed tube.

[sup909]

Start with a 2.0 carrier and a new carrier o-ring, fire ~1000 shots to break in the o-ring and use oil.
As stated by athomas, then use the largest carrier that doesn't leak (use the broken-in o-ring in the new carrier).
Don't use shims until you get it firing (and then only if you get bolt stick).
Only finger-tighten the field strip screw.
Tune without using a barrel in case your barrel is whacked.

It will feel like a lot of force if you put the squeegie down the barrel, but not if you just stick it down the feed tube.

Problem is it doesn't fire, it only vents.

[secretweaponevan]

Problem is it doesn't fire, it only vents.

Out the barrel, from between the body and rail, or out the back?


When I tuned my Level 10, it was a chuffing nightmare until after 1000 shots when I then put the broken in carrier o-ring on the correct carrier.

Are you using HPA or CO2? Do you have a reg in between your air source and the valve? If an HPA tank, does it have a High Pressure reg on it (usually a red collar by the fill nipple) or a Low Pressure reg (blue)?

[athomas]

Problem is it doesn't fire, it only vents.

You mean vents out the back?

Check your sear for wear. It could be causing your bolt to be sitting too far forward to seal properly. It doesn't take much.

[sup909]

You mean vents out the back?

Check your sear for wear. It could be causing your bolt to be sitting too far forward to seal properly. It doesn't take much.

No, sorry. It vents as if it were anti-chopping. It isn't leaking. if I used a 3.0 or under carrier. 3.5 it does leak out the front.

[sup909]

Out the barrel, from between the body and rail, or out the back?


When I tuned my Level 10, it was a chuffing nightmare until after 1000 shots when I then put the broken in carrier o-ring on the correct carrier.

Are you using HPA or CO2? Do you have a reg in between your air source and the valve? If an HPA tank, does it have a High Pressure reg on it (usually a red collar by the fill nipple) or a Low Pressure reg (blue)?

Air, no Reg, High pressure. I can try posting a video if that helps.