** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Billz804]

I replaced the Reg Seat Oring, and pulled out the valve pin assembly, and cleaned off those orings. I wouldn't mind replacing them, but I dont really know what size they are, or if I have extras, and it doesn't sound like they're the culprit. I've added a fair amount of oil to everything, and I keep double checking my carrier, and I'm still using the best one.

Still, the problem remains that I get one shot off before I can't fire another. The trigger has pressure against it, but won't actually fire; it feels like when I don't have my velocity high enough, except I'm pretty sure I do. If I hold the trigger in, it was quiet for 10 seconds, and then started slowly but surely to leak from the front.

Is the issue with the trigger rod that it can be too far from the trigger, or too close? Mine is about 1/32 away from the back of the trigger when I hold it against the safety, and I can't screw it in any further. Maybe I need to try and take some off..?

Thanks again for helping me troubleshoot.

[Billz804]

Okay, when I pull the trigger I get a first shot, and then significant drop off after that. When I hold the trigger in after a shot, the bolt does not reset, and after about 3-4 seconds I can hear a hiss down the barrel. I have to manually reset the bolt to take another shot.

So this seems to indicate a bad seal somewhere in the valve? I replaced the Reg Valve Pin Oring, but nothing changed. If the On/Off oring you're referring to is the one that sits on top of the On/Off, then I've replaced that one too.

The space between my trigger and sear is minimal, but I can't screw the rod in any further.

[Billz804]

Thanks a lot for the insight. I'll run through those checks and see if I can pinpoint where my leak is.

I'm running an AGD carbon fiber frame. Bushing is in place. I'm not certain what size pin I have as I don't have a pair of calipers.

I have a Retro valve with the stock RT on/off.

do you know what on/off pin length you're using? what trigger frame do you have?

Also, check your trigger rod spacing..

yeah, that's where i was thinking.

[athomas]

I've given most everything a once-over, and I don't see anything that stands out. Are there any orings that you might suspect as the culprit?

Right now it is airing with no leak, I can fire a first shot, and then it seems like there is a slow recharge. If I fire a shot and don't wait for 20 seconds I just get "puffs" and then venting down the barrel from the bolt not resetting.

If when you hold the trigger, the puffs of air don't stop, then it is indeed leaking past the valve orings. If the leak slows and stops after a while when you hold the trigger, then the problem is your level 10 setup.

The front chamber can leak from 4 different areas. The first and most obvious is the powertube, but that leak won't stop it from firing. The next obvious one is the on-off oring. The 3rd area is the regulator valve pin oring where the pin goes into the back section of the regulator body. A leak here allows air to flow into the front chamber from the back section through the regulator valve pin assembly. The 4th area is the two orings at the front of the regulator valve pin assembly. I doubt it is one of those two orings, because they usually vent leaked air out through a little hole in the side of the valve.

You can check the valve for leaks by installing it without the bolt and spring. Hold the trigger in and air it up. Gently release the trigger until you start to hear air flow out the front of the powertube. If you release the trigger and air flows out the trigger, and then stops when you pull the trigger, then the regulator part of the valve is sealing properly and your problem is definately the level 10.

Also, check your trigger rod spacing. It should be adjusted so that the back of the trigger rod has a tiny space between it and the back of the trigger when you hold the trigger against the safety (safety on) with the gun aired up.

Check that your rail bushing is in place.

[Billz804]

I've given most everything a once-over, and I don't see anything that stands out. Are there any orings that you might suspect as the culprit?

Right now it is airing with no leak, I can fire a first shot, and then it seems like there is a slow recharge. If I fire a shot and don't wait for 20 seconds I just get "puffs" and then venting down the barrel from the bolt not resetting.

[Billz804]

It's just the single oring. From my initial inspection, all the orings looked good to me. I'll go back over it again to double check..

[athomas]

I have a Retro valve with the stock RT on/off.

Are all the orings in the valve in good shape? Does your on-off use two orings above the top or just one?

[Billz804]

I have a Retro valve with the stock RT on/off.

[athomas]

....When I pull the trigger, it just "chuffs" half a shot. If I hold the trigger in, it will vent down the barrel and continue to make small chuffs; the bolt won't reset.

That indicates a problem with the on-off. Which valve do you have, a classic or retro/X valve.

[Billz804]

Gold

EDIT:

I'm using a gold spring out of a brand new Level 10 kit. I feel like I've got a good carrier/oring match now, as I'm airing up without leak, and the next carrier causes a slight leak down-barrel.

However, my problem is that I can turn the velocity adjuster all the way in and still not be able to cycle. I replaced my small on/off o-ring, but I'm not sure what else to try. When I pull the trigger, it just "chuffs" half a shot. If I hold the trigger in, it will vent down the barrel and continue to make small chuffs; the bolt won't reset.

Occasionally, if the gun sits, I can fire one full shot, but the bolt still doesn't reset, and I can't complete another cycle for another 30 seconds.

[Dayspring]

What spring are you using?

[Billz804]

After trying tons of different o-rings, I've finally found a decent one, and I've gotten to my smallest carrier that doesn't leak, which is a size 1 (one line). However, the gun doesn't fire. The bolt just chuffs forward and leaks, and then if i keep holding the trigger down, it keeps resetting and chuffing again. It won't reset itself all the way though, it seems. I've cranked my reg almost all the way in.. any ideas?

that would do it! also, not replacing your sear after disassembling your 'mag...i did that once lol. good call athomas.

[Doom-king]

Thank you I will try that, I also noticed last night that my spring was about 1 full coil shorter than my new parts kit's shortest spring. My sear and bolt both look fine, I have a spare lv10 kit to compare the bolt to and they look the same.

Edit: so I tore apart my on off assembly on my x valve and oring 22 was flat out gone... I think I found the problem.