** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[anxiouspaintblr]

Well, I don't know what the specs are on a stock center-feed emag body, but I believe that the Level 10 bolt is supposed to work on it. Replacement bolts are $40, so I would think before sanding on it. You might want to call up AGD and see what their techs have to say about this one. When it comes to actually altering the metal I would always talk to them first.

I already did it IT works great now. and its shiny

[Plazmic]

I already did it IT works great now. and its shiny

Well, cool beans!

So was it just a little burr that was catching? I'm glad that worked out for ya.

[smartfarts]

Help Help

Help Iv been trying to get my Xvalve to work right for some time now, with little success. Nothing seems to be wrong.. on/off in good shape, reg great.. it must be the lvl 10.

I Have the 2 lined carrier in, which is the largest it will get without leaking. I have 2 shims and the shortest spring (short brass, med. red, long silver). When i pull the trigger it shoots fine and has moderate anti-chop. The problem comes when trying to shoot anything faster than 2 bps. It kssks and the trigger becomes stiff. When i hold the trigger down all the way and release it slowly i notice that the bolt has to move forward some to get caught by the sear and reset. Well this forward movement is screwing over my rof. See when listening to the mag operate I hear the "SHOT" then shortly after a "ding", which i assume is the sear catching the bolt. But there is quite some lag between these two. I also noticed a few shots out of each set do Not have reactivity. Help me pleaase!! Iv tried fumbling with the reg pressure all day but i cant get over this problem. Nobody with decent knowledge around me, so i rely on you guys.

[anxiouspaintblr]

Well, cool beans!

So was it just a little burr that was catching? I'm glad that worked out for ya.

yeah it was a little of both I think. There was a burr on the ring inside the body and I sanded that off. But the bolt was still a little bit to fat at the front so I sanded and then poished it.

[Plazmic]

Help Iv been trying to get my Xvalve to work right for some time now, with little success. Nothing seems to be wrong.. on/off in good shape, reg great.. it must be the lvl 10.

I Have the 2 lined carrier in, which is the largest it will get without leaking. I have 2 shims and the shortest spring (short brass, med. red, long silver). When i pull the trigger it shoots fine and has moderate anti-chop. The problem comes when trying to shoot anything faster than 2 bps. It kssks and the trigger becomes stiff. When i hold the trigger down all the way and release it slowly i notice that the bolt has to move forward some to get caught by the sear and reset. Well this forward movement is screwing over my rof. See when listening to the mag operate I hear the "SHOT" then shortly after a "ding", which i assume is the sear catching the bolt. But there is quite some lag between these two. I also noticed a few shots out of each set do Not have reactivity. Help me pleaase!! Iv tried fumbling with the reg pressure all day but i cant get over this problem. Nobody with decent knowledge around me, so i rely on you guys.

Is it possible that your bumper is missing off the level 10? There should be a clear, somewhat soft-ish bumper that the bolt smacks into when it comes back from a shot. If that's missing then it would do what you describe here.

[smartfarts]

Is it possible that your bumper is missing off the level 10? There should be a clear, somewhat soft-ish bumper that the bolt smacks into when it comes back from a shot. If that's missing then it would do what you describe here.

bumper is there! i'v got no clue as to why it's doing this

[smartfarts]

Fixed!! hahaahahaa

[Plazmic]

Fixed!! hahaahahaa

So what was the fix?

[Slider3]

I havent been working with mags that long, and im just getting to the point where i understand more about the lvl 10 and all, but i have a really stupid question.

Should lube or grease, or something (what kind?) be put on the spring/bolt??? It seemed like there was some on it when i got my gun, but i just wanted to make sure. Thanks.

Slider3

[Gauntlet]

Been having trouble for a while with my lvl. 10 tuning. It makes me extremely pissed.

I have the right carrier size- 1.5 - it doesn't leak. It's not too smooth and it's not too rough on the bolt stem. The problem is bolt sticking, I've lubed it many many times every single thing in the valve. First I used 1 shim- still bolt sticked. 2 shims- bolt stick. 3 shims- bolt stick. Maybe it's something with my springs? I've got the long one, one that has a coil cut off, and a gold one(sorta crusty...).

HELP would be greatly appreciated.

[slade]

gauntlet - try tightening the rear field strip screw down, that may be the problem.

[Empyreal Rogue]

My LX is leaking, I just need more shims- yes?

But my problem is, I don't have any LX shims. I bought my marker with the LX installed but it didn't come with any extra parts. I'll check again but I'm pretty sure I'm shim-less. I do, however, have two ULT shims left over.

[cundawoods]

New X Valve wont fire

I just got a new x valve and it is not working. First thing I noticed is that the on/off needed to be pressed in before it would slide into the body. Once in the gun I have not had any luck getting it to fire. Actually I did manage to get one shot off but no more. I have taken tube apart and replaced insides with 1.5 and 2 shims as suggested, no difference. When you press on the trigger you can feel it push back but nothing happens. I have adjusted the pressure endlessly on the valve and on my tank with little results other than change in the leakage down the barrel. I have ranged the pressure from my tank from 600 to 1000 and no difference. Suggestiions.

[Plazmic]

I just got a new x valve and it is not working. First thing I noticed is that the on/off needed to be pressed in before it would slide into the body. Once in the gun I have not had any luck getting it to fire. Actually I did manage to get one shot off but no more. I have taken tube apart and replaced insides with 1.5 and 2 shims as suggested, no difference. When you press on the trigger you can feel it push back but nothing happens. I have adjusted the pressure endlessly on the valve and on my tank with little results other than change in the leakage down the barrel. I have ranged the pressure from my tank from 600 to 1000 and no difference. Suggestiions.

I imagine you could try the ULT shims. Just be very careful with them because they are not as sturdy. You could order new shims from AGD. They're cheap.

[GotMag?]

hey plazmic, yeah, try the ult shims.................

hey, btw justin and daniel have your jersey you left it at the field, and i gave it to them to hold