** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[harpo568]

I traded for an E-Mag not too long ago and I don't think the LVL 10 was completely installed... I'm thinking that just the bolt and part of the kit was done...not sure though since i didn't get any parts with the gun...
is there a LVL 10 parts kit or rebuild kit available?

[ultralight]

first mag issues...

this is my first mag:

x valve
lvx
ult
right feed steel mainbody
preset (high output) crossfire 68/3000

i am using the shortesd lvx spring, three spacers, the carrier with one line and one dot (not sure of the number designation), a brand new tight fitting o ring, and i have the flat white backing washer at the very back of the power tube. the ult has six spacers. everything is well oiled. the carrier/o ring combination is the loosest fit that doesn't leak. my velocity is ~ 2.5 turns from bottomin out

now that you know that... when i pull the trigger, occasionally the bolt will proceed halfway across the feed neck opening and vent air. this usually happens when i try to walk the trigger, or in testing, when i pull the trigger and then pull it again very slowly. all of this is without paint, when i cycle the marker with paint it double feeds and breaks paint in the barrel. please tell me what is going on.

i figure, if anyone can help, it's you. as i saw in another thread, you are the manual.

sorry for the phone book. thanks in advance.

p.s. i bought the marker on Ebay, then bought a very slightly used factory assembled tac one, i decided that i didn't like the look of it and took the x valve (ult pre installed) and put it into my other mag.

[athomas]

Check your nubbin. If it is broken, it could be casuing the bolt to fetch up and the balls to be breaking.

[ultralight]

nubbins look kind of old but they are still in one piece. they're the plastic ones.

[ICOM]

anyone help me with my problem,its posted on bottom on page40

[brain.68]

hot shot

rt pro
ule body
x valve
lv 10
ule trigger pull kit


my rt pro ule costom is doing this thing where pressure builds up and then it will shoot a ball at like 350 fps. ive tried turnignthe velocity down but it soesnt seem to help. HELP ME OUT PLEASE. PM ME IF U CAN HELP

[athomas]

brain: Your problem is a bad regulator seat o-ring.

[athomas]

Ultralight: check how far into the barrel the nubbims are protruding. If the barrel is loose fitting or the nubbin back is worn, it is possible that the nubbin is not going into the barrel far enough. This would allow the balls to double feed and cause chop problems. The loose fitting barrel can cause the barrel to not fit properly which could cause the level 10 to kick in when dry firing.

[ultralight]

barrel is nice and tight, nubbin is in there far enough. the barrel is a cf jj ceramic if that makes any difference. i think that the reason i get some double feeding is that when it "burps", bolt comes half way across the feed opening and then vents, it pushes the first ball past the detent and then the next successful shot fires them both.

the real problem is the "burps". when i pull the trigger too slowly or pull it partially, the bolt starts "burping". please help. thanks

and thanks for the help up to this point.

[jewie27]

I traded for an E-Mag not too long ago and I don't think the LVL 10 was completely installed... I'm thinking that just the bolt and part of the kit was done...not sure though since i didn't get any parts with the gun...
is there a LVL 10 parts kit or rebuild kit available?

all level 10 parts can be found here. Level 10 Parts @ Airgun store

[jewie27]

this is my first mag:

x valve
lvx
ult
right feed steel mainbody
preset (high output) crossfire 68/3000

i am using the shortesd lvx spring, three spacers, the carrier with one line and one dot (not sure of the number designation), a brand new tight fitting o ring, and i have the flat white backing washer at the very back of the power tube. the ult has six spacers. everything is well oiled. the carrier/o ring combination is the loosest fit that doesn't leak. my velocity is ~ 2.5 turns from bottomin out

now that you know that... when i pull the trigger, occasionally the bolt will proceed halfway across the feed neck opening and vent air. this usually happens when i try to walk the trigger, or in testing, when i pull the trigger and then pull it again very slowly. all of this is without paint, when i cycle the marker with paint it double feeds and breaks paint in the barrel. please tell me what is going on.

i figure, if anyone can help, it's you. as i saw in another thread, you are the manual.

sorry for the phone book. thanks in advance.

p.s. i bought the marker on Ebay, then bought a very slightly used factory assembled tac one, i decided that i didn't like the look of it and took the x valve (ult pre installed) and put it into my other mag.

Remove 2 shims from the ULT. Too many shims will cause shooting problems and leaks.

Try using only 2 shims in the Level 10.

[nipplez]

xvalve with lvlx

i upgraded to the xvalve and it came with the lvlx
when i gas it up, there are no leaks but it still chops
i started out with no shims and have added up to 4 with no luck
i also used different springs, any suggestion?

[XSoberOne]

Similiar issues

I just bought a Xvalved mag w/ lvl 10 kit and the ULT trigger kit installed. It chrono's relatively consistently (some drop-off to around 250, but mostly 290, 285, 290, 290) I have evreything working the way I want it to EXCEPT for the fact that every undisclosed amount of rounds through the gun, the bolt won't re-engage the sear, and the gun won't fire unleass I insert a straightshot down the barrel to reset the bolt. That's not reliability. That's me getting bunkered while I'm pleading with my gun to give me 5 more shots. Sometimes if I flick the triggerit'll reset....but when I NEEDED it to, it didn't. I have 4 shims on the on/off valve and two shims/1.5 carrier on the Power Tube Assembly and the mediu, spring. Will adding more shims to the on/off help with the consistency of the bolt reengaging the sear? Any suggestions would be great, thanks

[athomas]

Usually, bolt stick is caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims. Use a slightly larger carrier (the largest one that doesn't leak). Once that is done, the bolt should not stick forward and the velocity dropoff should be better as well. Get the level 10 adjusted and then you can tweak the ULT for a better more crisp trigger pull as well.

[XSoberOne]

Usually, bolt stick is caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims. Use a slightly larger carrier (the largest one that doesn't leak). Once that is done, the bolt should not stick forward and the velocity dropoff should be better as well. Get the level 10 adjusted and then you can tweak the ULT for a better more crisp trigger pull as well.

SOunds good..back to the workbench it is. I'll give it a try Athomas, thanks for the advice