The level 10 requires a higher operating pressure than the level 7, which causes the regulator piston assembly to vent out the back.
** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **
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help me......
Regulator Piston Assembly Part Number: 000684-10 : athomas, is this the one I need, if not where can I find the one your talking about.Originally posted by athomasThe level 10 requires a higher operating pressure than the level 7, which causes the regulator piston assembly to vent out the back.
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Some how the center shaft off of my lvl 10 bolt came out and was lost, its the part that would go inside the different size carriers. I don't know how it came out, I thought it was one piece. Is this repairable or do I have to buy a new bolt. ThanksSome ghost come from the afterlife, some send you there.
Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon 2
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i have a hyperframe on my mag and the level 10 doesnt seem to keep up. if i shoot slow everything works fine, when i walk it slow it works fine, but as soon as a realy start to get on the trigger it starts chuffing, double feeding and breaking paint. i know i have the short spring in there, but not sure what carrier or the amount of shims. how can i get my level 10 to keep up?
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when i rapid fire on my x-valve, the level 10 doesn't always stop a chop. would adding another shim or two solve this? there are only two in it right now, and i dont have any more to expirament with.upgrade fund: $145

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The bolt stem is a separate piece in the level 10 bolt. It is press fit in. On some rare occasions, it does come out. It should be covered under warrantee. Get a hold of AGD. They may have an answer for you on this one.Originally posted by CJ55Some how the center shaft off of my lvl 10 bolt came out and was lost, its the part that would go inside the different size carriers. I don't know how it came out, I thought it was one piece. Is this repairable or do I have to buy a new bolt. ThanksExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Shims do not affect the ability to chop or not. They only affect how far the bolt has to move before it can be reset after a stopage.Originally posted by wanna-b-ballin'when i rapid fire on my x-valve, the level 10 doesn't always stop a chop. would adding another shim or two solve this? there are only two in it right now, and i dont have any more to expirament with.
If you are having chopping issues, use a stiffer bolt spring.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I can't seem to get my level 10 tuned right. My rt came factory tuned with the shortest spring in, 2 shims, and the smallest carrier. I first tried switching out for the next largest carrier, but it leaked. I then tried putting in the middle spring. Chrono'd at 280, the bolt doesn't seem to fully recock and the trigger does not get resut unless I hold the trigger down a couple seconds or push the bolt back with my finger. With the lightest spring I still get chops, but I can barely shoot with the middle one. Should I take wire cutters and cut a little off of the middle spring?
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I'm having a slight problem. I got my level 10 working great except for one thing. When I put my finger into the barrel, and try to fire 4 out of 5 times it will stop, then reset itself, which is good. But 1 out of 5 times it will hit my finger and stop, and continure leaking air until I reset it with my figure. What do I do?
1.0 Carrier
2 shims
Largest Spring.
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You are definately getting bolt stick. Try using the next larger carrier, but take the shims out when you put it in. If it still leaks try a different oring in the carrier and go through the tuning process from scratch (again, without shims).Originally posted by pachytritonI can't seem to get my level 10 tuned right. My rt came factory tuned with the shortest spring in, 2 shims, and the smallest carrier. I first tried switching out for the next largest carrier, but it leaked. I then tried putting in the middle spring. Chrono'd at 280, the bolt doesn't seem to fully recock and the trigger does not get resut unless I hold the trigger down a couple seconds or push the bolt back with my finger. With the lightest spring I still get chops, but I can barely shoot with the middle one. Should I take wire cutters and cut a little off of the middle spring?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Sounds like bolt stick. If there was no leaking I would say its not enough shims, but the leaking through the vent hole would indicate a carrier that was too tight.Originally posted by areoreo37I'm having a slight problem. I got my level 10 working great except for one thing. When I put my finger into the barrel, and try to fire 4 out of 5 times it will stop, then reset itself, which is good. But 1 out of 5 times it will hit my finger and stop, and continure leaking air until I reset it with my figure. What do I do?
1.0 Carrier
2 shims
Largest Spring.
Do you have a ULT? If so, it is also possible that the ULT tuning could cause your problem.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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What spring / setup for 230 FPS ?
Hi
I need too set my X-Mag at shoting 230 FPS for indoor play and reball, not only that , its a small field.
What spring is best too use at this, right now i can shoot eggs with my gun, but at reball it dossent work well, so im thinking it can be as hard it wants on the ball but as low fps as i can get.
What spring will hit the ball hardest?
Any suggestions?
Thx
KentNYX #145
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The short gold spring works best for low velocity settings. It is also the hardest on paint. At low velocity settings it won't be as hard on paint due to the lower chamber pressures.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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