** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

Where do I get that, directly from AGD?, cause I looked on their site and couldn't find it. Thanks for the help though.

Yes, you get that part from AGD. Here is the web address of the part:

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=112&categoryID=23

[luke@york]

my rt is leaking down the barrel and stops leaking after a few seconds when you pull the trigger, i changed the carriers over, the one that was in had 3 dots on it, put two different sized ones in, one with 2 lines and 3 dots and one with 2 lines and 1 dot but both were worse than the first, the marker has no shims in it either.

iv checked the orings and all seem fine and also lubed it thru the ASA with hoppes oil, i got about 4000 balls thru it over 2 different days paintballing before it started leaking, it was fine before that the marker is set at 280FPS (ish) and also has an x valve

[athomas]

my rt is leaking down the barrel and stops leaking after a few seconds when you pull the trigger, i changed the carriers over, the one that was in had 3 dots on it, put two different sized ones in, one with 2 lines and 3 dots and one with 2 lines and 1 dot but both were worse than the first, the marker has no shims in it either.

iv checked the orings and all seem fine and also lubed it thru the ASA with hoppes oil, i got about 4000 balls thru it over 2 different days paintballing before it started leaking, it was fine before that the marker is set at 280FPS (ish) and also has an x valve

I think you are reading something incorrectly. The carriers are sized by lines and dots. The lines represent full sizes. The dots represent half sizes. The carrier sizing goes as follows:

Size 0 = no lines, no dots
Size .5 = 1 dot
Size 1 = 1 line
Size 1.5 = 1 line, 1 dot
Size 2 = 2 lines
Size 2.5 = 2 lines, 1 dot
Size 3 = 3 lines
Some of the origninal kits also had larger sizes.

Try finding the sequential size of your carriers and try again. Move down in size until the leak stops. The carrier and oring should be snug on the bolt stem but still move freely. If it is tight and the gun still leaks, try changing the carrier oring and tune again. If it still leaks, check your sear for wear.

Only use good quality sythetic lubricant. Petrolium based products will destroy the orings in the gun.

[JediMastR]

okay, i tuned up my level 10 a week ago, aired it up no leaks using no shims and either 1.5 or 1.0 carier (cant remember). shot about 15-20 times no leaks. today i went to air it up, each shot progressively gets lower in velocity, if i dont shoot for a 10-12 seconds, ill hear air start to come out the back of the regulator, pulling trigger will stop leak but the first ball is coming out hot, and the next one lower and it will double feed consistently on the 3rd or 4th consecutive shot. its a minimag classic "center fire #0133" valve. serial# mm17482. mechanical trigger assembly, compressed air. a little help please

[athomas]

okay, i tuned up my level 10 a week ago, aired it up no leaks using no shims and either 1.5 or 1.0 carier (cant remember). shot about 15-20 times no leaks. today i went to air it up, each shot progressively gets lower in velocity, if i dont shoot for a 10-12 seconds, ill hear air start to come out the back of the regulator, pulling trigger will stop leak but the first ball is coming out hot, and the next one lower and it will double feed consistently on the 3rd or 4th consecutive shot. its a minimag classic "center fire #0133" valve. serial# mm17482. mechanical trigger assembly, compressed air. a little help please

It sounds like your regulator seat oring is bad or the pin needs lubed.

[JediMastR]

ill check the regulator seat; but do you mean the on/off pin?

[JediMastR]

valve not taking in air

I checked the regulator seat that you said and replaced it with one from my repair kit, put a very small amount of oil on the pin, another small drop into the hole marked 'oil' on the bottom of the valve, but when I aired it up to test-fire, the marker wouldnt shoot at all. not even a sputter. there is air going into the fitting into the valve and my tank has 2000psi left. i turned up the velocity gradually pulling the trigger for a little more than a 1/4 turn but still nothing it was firing before, very strange. i checked the on/off assembly, everything was fine. any thoughts?

[athomas]

ill check the regulator seat; but do you mean the on/off pin?

No, I mean the regulator pin. If it sticks, it can cause all sorts of recharge problems. Check that there isn't a piece of debris where the two orings reside at the front of the pin.

[JediMastR]

ya i checked it, its all clean appears to be totally normal/functional, but the valve refuses to take in air, the trigger and sear pin is totally limp. based on the past recharge problems and this maybe the entire regulator piston assembly is shot?

[scrubbs03]

New x-valve Problems.....won't fire!!!

I just got a new x-valve for my 68 automag. I installed it exactly like the directions said and turned up the velocity (using a high pressure tank) untill it cocked and then pulled the trigger once and it wouldn't fire anymore. It was like there wasnt enough pressure to cock it back or something. I tried using: 3 shims, 1 shim, no shims, using a smaller o-ring carrier, using the different size springs all with the same result.....no firing!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

[athomas]

ya i checked it, its all clean appears to be totally normal/functional, but the valve refuses to take in air, the trigger and sear pin is totally limp. based on the past recharge problems and this maybe the entire regulator piston assembly is shot?

Now, that problem sounds like bolt stick caused by a carrier that is too tight. Try pushing back on the front of the bolt. If the trigger rod snaps forward when you push the bolt back, you will know for sure.

[athomas]

I just got a new x-valve for my 68 automag. I installed it exactly like the directions said and turned up the velocity (using a high pressure tank) untill it cocked and then pulled the trigger once and it wouldn't fire anymore. It was like there wasnt enough pressure to cock it back or something. I tried using: 3 shims, 1 shim, no shims, using a smaller o-ring carrier, using the different size springs all with the same result.....no firing!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Remove all the shims to start. Then put in a larger (not smaller) carrier with your oring. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Start with the short bolt spring. Turn up the velocity until it fires reliably. Once you get it firing without leaks you can go to the middle red spring and further tweak your setup.

[JediMastR]

i tried pushing the bolt back with a squeegee but to no avail, nothing happened. very strange. im going to send it in to agd i went through all the troubleshooting on their site as well. thanks anyway for your help, i appreciate it.

[athomas]

i tried pushing the bolt back with a squeegee but to no avail, nothing happened. very strange. im going to send it in to agd i went through all the troubleshooting on their site as well. thanks anyway for your help, i appreciate it.

Take the valve apart and give it a good cleaning. Lub it well as you put it back together. Mag valves are very easy to maintain. Very seldom is there ever a problem that can't be solved by replacing a damaged oring or removing a piece of dirt.

[scrubbs03]

Remove all the shims to start. Then put in a larger (not smaller) carrier with your oring. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Start with the short bolt spring. Turn up the velocity until it fires reliably. Once you get it firing without leaks you can go to the middle red spring and further tweak your setup.

I put in a larger o-ring carrier (the second smallest) with the medium (red) spring and 2 shims and it seemed to fire. The only problem was if I tried to fire rapidly, it wouldn't fire everytime it would just make the sound of air coming out untill I would let go of the trigger. Any help is greatly appreciated!!