Originally posted by Guerra
** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
Use the short spring. Its the one that will work at low fps. It also works well at a higher fps, but is a little harder than the red spring. For most paint, you won't notice a difference. Make sure you have the loosest fitting carrier that doesn't leak. Check the fit without any shims installed. When shooting at low fps, you can maintain a higher chamber operating pressure by using a really short or really long barrel.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
-
does ult affect my level 10 set up?
Prior to getting ULT, my level 10 was working great...hadn't had a break and felt pretty good. I just installed ULT and the bolt seems to be hitting a lot harder when I test to see if the bolt is still reseting like it was before. Would my ULT affect this or is my pressure too high? thanks guys
Comment
-
The ULT doesn't affect the impact of the level 10. Make sure you are holding against the bolt when it is all the way back. If you allow the bolt to come 1/4" forward, it hits much harder because it is past the small part of the level 10 bolt stem.Originally posted by slackerwilPrior to getting ULT, my level 10 was working great...hadn't had a break and felt pretty good. I just installed ULT and the bolt seems to be hitting a lot harder when I test to see if the bolt is still reseting like it was before. Would my ULT affect this or is my pressure too high? thanks guysExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment
-
Fires On Its Own
I have had my TAC-1 for about 6 months. About 3 months ago, it started firing by it's self when I gased it up. The saftey is alway on and it only happens about every other time. A gun-smith told me to oil one of the small O-rings inside the bolt, but this did not help. I will try it again, but I need other ideas.
Thanks.
Comment
-
Hold the trigger when gassing up. It allows the orings to seat themselves better when air is applied.Originally posted by DBCI have had my TAC-1 for about 6 months. About 3 months ago, it started firing by it's self when I gased it up. The saftey is alway on and it only happens about every other time. A gun-smith told me to oil one of the small O-rings inside the bolt, but this did not help. I will try it again, but I need other ideas.
Thanks.
If you are using a ULT, you might want to remove a shim.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment
-
Hold the trigger with the saftey off or on? (I do have ULT.) Can you point me to another thread that explains how to remove a shim?Originally posted by athomasHold the trigger when gassing up. It allows the orings to seat themselves better when air is applied.
If you are using a ULT, you might want to remove a shim.
Comment
-
Hod the trigger with the safety off. That way it makes sure the front chamber is closed.Originally posted by DBCHold the trigger with the saftey off or on? (I do have ULT.) Can you point me to another thread that explains how to remove a shim?
Remove a ULT shim by separating the two halves of the ULT. The shims go between the two halves.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment
-
Hey AO, I tried to skim through the first pages of this thread looking for my issue but I didn't find anything that solved it and I don't have time to read through 51 pages (I did try to do a search but it's hard to find a specific case) so here's my problem. On both my Classic RT (w/ a lvlx) and a newly acquired Xvalve both will only shoot on the shortest spring. They will sometimes shoot with the medium spring but other times it will just chuff, and to get it to shoot reliably it will be in the 300fps range (too high obviously). My classic RT has a brand new regulator piston in it and neither vent. Any ideas on how to get the medium spring working in these babies? Thanks!
Nick
Comment
-
If the medium spring is too stiff and makes the guns shoot at a velocity that is too high when shooting reliably, then the short spring is the one you need. Just because you use the short spring, doesn't mean you get any less protection. It just means your setup demands the use of the shorter spring to get the softness in the velocity range that you are shooting.Originally posted by Automagrt666Hey AO, I tried to skim through the first pages of this thread looking for my issue but I didn't find anything that solved it and I don't have time to read through 51 pages (I did try to do a search but it's hard to find a specific case) so here's my problem. On both my Classic RT (w/ a lvlx) and a newly acquired Xvalve both will only shoot on the shortest spring. They will sometimes shoot with the medium spring but other times it will just chuff, and to get it to shoot reliably it will be in the 300fps range (too high obviously). My classic RT has a brand new regulator piston in it and neither vent. Any ideas on how to get the medium spring working in these babies? Thanks!
Nick
If you feel the short spring is still allowing too much impact and the middle spring is too stiff to allow reliable operation, you can snip a coil off the middle spring. It will remove some of the tension allow you to tune the operating range down a bit. Make sure you put the cut edge against the bolt.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment
-
Well is there any reason that I have 2 valves that require the small spring while most people can use the medium spring? is there some part that I need to change?
Comment
-
The fact that both valves require the small spring is even more of an indication that everything is normal. If they were both different, then I would be more concerned that something is wrong with one of the setups. Your setup, the barrel length and id, combined with the size and mass of the balls you are using is probably a very efficient combination allowing you to use a lower pressure in the mag chamber. The lower chamber pressure means you have less force applied to the bolt spring, which translates into less impact force that the bolt has on the ball even with the short spring.Originally posted by Automagrt666Well is there any reason that I have 2 valves that require the small spring while most people can use the medium spring? is there some part that I need to change?
Test your setup by putting a squeegie down the barrel against the face of the bolt. Fire the mag. You can get a feel for the impact on the ball. Make sure the squeegie is against the face of the bolt. If the distance between the squeegie and the bolt is greater than 1/4", it will hit hard like a level 7 bolt.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment
-
Micromag wiht level 10 does nothing
I just spent about 4 hours installing and reinstalling, and reinstalling the lvl 10 in my micromag. with the stock bolt and setup, it works great, when I put the lvl 10 in, in any configuration, it does nothing. No leaks, nothing. Trigger is unresponsive. but I can feel air on it. Please help, as I am ready to pull my hair out. Also it feels like when the bolt slides all the way down on the powertube, regardless of which carrier I use that it "snaps" into place when all the way down. Could this be keeping it from moving forward. Help.
Comment
-
Without any shims installed, what is the largest carrier you can use without any leaks? Use the shortest brass bolt spring when starting off. Don't forget to turn the velocity up.Originally posted by BangaloreI just spent about 4 hours installing and reinstalling, and reinstalling the lvl 10 in my micromag. with the stock bolt and setup, it works great, when I put the lvl 10 in, in any configuration, it does nothing. No leaks, nothing. Trigger is unresponsive. but I can feel air on it. Please help, as I am ready to pull my hair out. Also it feels like when the bolt slides all the way down on the powertube, regardless of which carrier I use that it "snaps" into place when all the way down. Could this be keeping it from moving forward. Help.
Make sure the bolt fits and slides freely in the breach of the micomag. Some micromags had breaches which were tight for the level 10 bolts. If this is so with yours, you will have to sand the outer tip of the bolt just a bit. It doesn't take much.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment
-
Micromag wiht level 10 does nothing
I have put all of the carriers in, even the largest (one with four grooves) and dont have any leaks. I tried the one wiht 2 mostly. My velocity is as far up as it will go. I have tried the bolt with just the spring on it, and can use my finger to slide it and it moves freely, but once I put the valve and reg in with the level 10, it just sits there at the back of the breach. The trigger feelslike it has air, but not solid, kind of like what I expect it should feel like with the level 10 pinching a ball., but when I pull the trigger, nothing, and when I say nothing, I mean nothing, no sound, no leaks, no response at all. When I put everything back stock, it rocks as usual. Any ideas. Is it possilbe that the bolt is getting stuck on the powertube somehow, because it just doesn't feel very free when it bottoms out. Incidentally, when the piston inside the bolt grows in size,( about halfway up the bolt) noe of the carriers will fit over. Im sure that is normal, but I'm desperate for an answer.
Comment
Comment