** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

I have put all of the carriers in, even the largest (one with four grooves) and dont have any leaks. I tried the one wiht 2 mostly. My velocity is as far up as it will go. I have tried the bolt with just the spring on it, and can use my finger to slide it and it moves freely, but once I put the valve and reg in with the level 10, it just sits there at the back of the breach. The trigger feelslike it has air, but not solid, kind of like what I expect it should feel like with the level 10 pinching a ball., but when I pull the trigger, nothing, and when I say nothing, I mean nothing, no sound, no leaks, no response at all. When I put everything back stock, it rocks as usual. Any ideas. Is it possilbe that the bolt is getting stuck on the powertube somehow, because it just doesn't feel very free when it bottoms out. Incidentally, when the piston inside the bolt grows in size,( about halfway up the bolt) noe of the carriers will fit over. Im sure that is normal, but I'm desperate for an answer.

Sounds like you are doing everything right. Do you have any external regulators on your mag or are you using a low output tank? Do you know the output pressure of your tank?

The carriers only fit over the small portion of the bolt stem. There shouldn't be anything that makes it feel like it is sticking. Check the powertube for obstructions. Maybe an oring is lodged down there.

[Bangalore]

Micromag wiht level 10 does nothing

no external reg, tank is a wgp 50ci 300 psi tank set to 800-850 psi output

have been in the powertube and there appears to be nothing

no external regs,

will check the powertube again later and repost, but right now im 90% sure that there is nothing there

any other ideas

[athomas]

You don't have a rental valve by any chance?

Try a new carrier o-ring. Maybe the one you have is tighter than it should be, even with the biggest carrier. Is the bolt bumper in place?

Try to see if the sear is releasing the bolt. Maybe the trigger rod needs adjusting to give more travel. Check your trigger rod length. There should be just a slight gap behind the trigger when the gun is gassed and the trigger is forward.

[The_Don_83]

[athomas]

The loud click is most likely the bolt hitting against the sear. Thats normal, especially if there is no air in the front chamber due to the leak out the front like you explained.

Your problem could definately be caused by bolt stick due to a carrier that is too tight or a bolt spring that is worn out. Try a fresh bolt spring and find the correct carrier size without any shims in the powertube. It wouldn't hurt to give the valve a complete cleaning at the same time. A piece of dirt could cause all sorts of problems.

[originalspyderxtra]

nvm, got it

[snake_tzu]

Velocity/accuracy problems

Don't know if this is a Level 10 problem, an x-valve problem, or something else Marker is Tac One with SpecOps Q-Bow package. Got it second hand but appears very new. Been through the Level 10 instructions, using #1 carrier to get no leaks, new o ring. Two shims. I don't know what the difference between the two longer springs is, one is red and one is plain. Have the plain one in, can hear bolt "stop" occasionally, but also sometimes chop, at high rof. Input pressure around 850. Using chrono procedure listed elsewhere, velocity varies from high 260's to occasionally just over 300 at 1-2 shot/second or so. Higher rof more consistent but still 270-285. Ball impacts have noticeable vertical stringing.

I have been advised to look for a classic valve for my play style, which is 5-6 bps or less, usually slow single shots or 3 rd bursts. Have also been advised to add regulator to remote line and reduce input pressure. Trigger is a little floppy, should it be tighter, make a difference?

Need the accuracy. Bought this as a sniper marker due to firepower flexibility, no hopper on top, and quieter sound signature. Right now my A5 with Stabilizer can outshoot it any day. Help!

Snake

[finnmanpa]

Spring differences

Ok everyone,

I understand the longer the spring, the gentler the bolt on the paint.

I also understand the longer the spring the less efficent the Mag is using HPA.

My new X-Valve is now working great with no leaks or bolt stick. It is shooting a consistent 280, which is the limit for most fields I play at. I am currently using the longest spring as a result of some crappy paint last scenario game I was in.

I'm guessing the middle spring would be a good all around performer if I could only ever choose one. I am thinking this because the middel spring would be gentler on the paint that the smallest one, but a bit more efficent with air than the longer one.

1st questions; Can I just change out my longest spring for the middle spring? I consequently have to decrease the velocity a bit, correct? A lower velocity would mean less pressure on the bolt, so would this increase my chance of bolt stick?

My last question is this; Does a longer spring verses a shorter spring coincide with rates of fire? Or am I overthinking this?

Thanks everyone, Jason

[athomas]

1st questions; Can I just change out my longest spring for the middle spring? I consequently have to decrease the velocity a bit, correct? A lower velocity would mean less pressure on the bolt, so would this increase my chance of bolt stick?

My last question is this; Does a longer spring verses a shorter spring coincide with rates of fire? Or am I overthinking this?

Yes, you can change springs easily without any other modifications. All you have to do is re-adjust the velocity setting. Bolt stick wouldn't be a problem unless there is a problem with your setup of the level 10, so you should be fine. If you are firing fine with the longest spring, then you shouldn't have any problems with bolt stick with either of the other two springs.

The bolt spring can affect the rate of fire but not that you would notice. The longer spring slows down the bolt speed so the cycle time is increased. The rate of fire is still higher than a lot of markers on the market.

[athomas]

Don't know if this is a Level 10 problem, an x-valve problem, or something else Marker is Tac One with SpecOps Q-Bow package. Got it second hand but appears very new. Been through the Level 10 instructions, using #1 carrier to get no leaks, new o ring. Two shims. I don't know what the difference between the two longer springs is, one is red and one is plain. Have the plain one in, can hear bolt "stop" occasionally, but also sometimes chop, at high rof. Input pressure around 850. Using chrono procedure listed elsewhere, velocity varies from high 260's to occasionally just over 300 at 1-2 shot/second or so. Higher rof more consistent but still 270-285. Ball impacts have noticeable vertical stringing.

I have been advised to look for a classic valve for my play style, which is 5-6 bps or less, usually slow single shots or 3 rd bursts. Have also been advised to add regulator to remote line and reduce input pressure. Trigger is a little floppy, should it be tighter, make a difference?

Need the accuracy. Bought this as a sniper marker due to firepower flexibility, no hopper on top, and quieter sound signature. Right now my A5 with Stabilizer can outshoot it any day. Help!

Snake

Your xvalve will probably be more consistent once the orings in the regulator part are broken in.

If you have the grey long spring then you are using the stiffest spring which could cause some inconsistencies in the velocity range you are shooting. You may want to install the red spring and readjust the the velocity setting to the desired value.

The "chops" you are experiencing are more likely due to barrel breaks. What is the size of the paint vs the barrel? A ball that is too large can break as it is being pushed into the barrel. They look a lot like chops. Chops most often occur over 10 bps. Under 10bps and most hopper systems with a motorized or spring loaded feed can keep up no problem, so these breaks are probably barrel or detent related.

Your style of play does lend itself to an AIR valve rather than an xvalve. The retro valve velocity is set to compensate for heating during recharge at high rates of fire. The air cools after a few seconds of sitting so your velocity would be lower as well. The retro valve is meant to be fired fast. An AIR valve velocity remains constant no matter how fast you are shooting. If you install a retro/x valve on-off assembly in an AIR valve you can reduce the trigger pull to 2lbs like the retro valve. You just won't get the reactive trigger. In summary, if you want single shot and rapid shot to shot consistency for "sniping", you want an AIR valve. Keep your xvalve and buy a second hand AIR/classic valve to drop in. They are inexpensive used. That way you can enjoy the best of both worlds if needed.

Don't add another regulator to your setup. The mag is already a dual reg system, the bottle reg and the valve reg. Adding a 3rd reg would only starve the gun for air.

[finnmanpa]

Yes, you can change springs easily without any other modifications. All you have to do is re-adjust the velocity setting. Bolt stick wouldn't be a problem unless there is a problem with your setup of the level 10, so you should be fine. If you are firing fine with the longest spring, then you shouldn't have any problems with bolt stick with either of the other two springs.

The bolt spring can affect the rate of fire but not that you would notice. The longer spring slows down the bolt speed so the cycle time is increased. The rate of fire is still higher than a lot of markers on the market.

OK, thanks for the advice. Now I have another issue I'm stumped with. When I first set up my Level 10 last Oct, I used 2 shims and the single dot carrier (.5?) i think it's called

With that set-up it didn't leak, but I got bolt stick, as in the bolt wouldn't fire for like 5 or 6 trigger pulls. I called AGD on this, and they said to add a shim, which solved the problem.

Been playing fine with .05 carrier and three shims all winter indoors, like 4 times a month since Oct.

Well this weekend I started getting the bolt stick again!! Like every game. I do always keep everything lubed up. I tried adding a 4th shim but that didn't solve it. I've tried swapping out the carrier o-rings but that didn't solve it. I tried going up one carrier size but it leaks like crazy then out the front of the bolt.

Current; 4 shims, single dot carrier (.5?)

Is there a possibility that this has nothing to do with the bolt and that my on/off assembly or pin is tight? I do feel resistence when I pull the trigger, but the gun doesn't fire till 5 or 6 trigger pulls later.

I'm getting tired of having the jump on guys but getting shot out because my gun won't fire first.

[athomas]

OK, thanks for the advice. Now I have another issue I'm stumped with. When I first set up my Level 10 last Oct, I used 2 shims and the single dot carrier (.5?) i think it's called

With that set-up it didn't leak, but I got bolt stick, as in the bolt wouldn't fire for like 5 or 6 trigger pulls. I called AGD on this, and they said to add a shim, which solved the problem.

Been playing fine with .05 carrier and three shims all winter indoors, like 4 times a month since Oct.

Well this weekend I started getting the bolt stick again!! Like every game. I do always keep everything lubed up. I tried adding a 4th shim but that didn't solve it. I've tried swapping out the carrier o-rings but that didn't solve it. I tried going up one carrier size but it leaks like crazy then out the front of the bolt.

Current; 4 shims, single dot carrier (.5?)

Is there a possibility that this has nothing to do with the bolt and that my on/off assembly or pin is tight? I do feel resistence when I pull the trigger, but the gun doesn't fire till 5 or 6 trigger pulls later.

I'm getting tired of having the jump on guys but getting shot out because my gun won't fire first.

Adding a shim helps with bolt stick only if the gun chuffs and won't reset properly. Shims usually don't help when the gun won't fire at all. That is generally caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims, increase your carrier size until you can use the largest one that doesn't leak. Always use the same carrier oring that you have been using. You can then add shims again once you find the proper carrier size. If you increase the carrier size with shims still installed, it can leak due to too many shims even though you have the proper size carrier.

[finnmanpa]

Adding a shim helps with bolt stick only if the gun chuffs and won't reset properly. Shims usually don't help when the gun won't fire at all. That is generally caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims, increase your carrier size until you can use the largest one that doesn't leak. Always use the same carrier oring that you have been using. You can then add shims again once you find the proper carrier size. If you increase the carrier size with shims still installed, it can leak due to too many shims even though you have the proper size carrier.

Thanks again, I will try this and see what happens.

[peeeto]

Adding a shim helps with bolt stick only if the gun chuffs and won't reset properly. Shims usually don't help when the gun won't fire at all. That is generally caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims, increase your carrier size until you can use the largest one that doesn't leak. Always use the same carrier oring that you have been using. You can then add shims again once you find the proper carrier size. If you increase the carrier size with shims still installed, it can leak due to too many shims even though you have the proper size carrier.

athomas: please, what do you mean by "Always use the same carrier oring that you have been using"? in my lx kit, each carrier has an o-ring already on it...

thanks in advance!

[athomas]

athomas: please, what do you mean by "Always use the same carrier oring that you have been using"? in my lx kit, each carrier has an o-ring already on it...

thanks in advance!

The black outside oring only seals the outside of the carrier from leaking. The "carrier oring" that is affected by the different sized carriers is the white one that fits inside the carrier. Its this white one that must be transfered from carrier to carrier when changing sizes.