** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[peeeto]

gotcha - i see now. thank you for clearing that up.

[Shadow Death]

Brand New TAC One Lvl 10 Leak Problem

Bought a new tac one from AGD themselves and thought that they factory tuned the lvl 10 bolt before shipping out. I even got a receipt of a factory chrono. As soon as I set up my air supply I had a very loud leak coming from the bolt area. I assumed it was in my braided steel/elbows themselves despite everything be plumber taped and screwed in very tight. So I spent my early trouble shooting days swapping those things out and re-plumber taping everything only to get the variables limited down to something internal. So then I realized they must NOT of tuned the bolt. So I proceeded with the typical carrier/shim trial and error and have tried EVERY combination of Carrier with no shims and then each carrier with 1,2,3,4,5 shims. I also tried all of my O-rings for the carriers... otherwise I don't have any other 0-rings that I can replace in the setup without buying a parts kit.

Through spending countless hours on this forum it led me to air it up and pull the trigger and hold it back and see if the leak stopped. It does when I do this.... which also said that is a carrier/shim problem.... BUT I'VE ALREADY TRIED EVERY COMBINATION!!!! Now I was able to greatly reduce the leak from what it was how the factory had set it up... where's it's at now it will start really quiet almost where you can't hear it and just get louder and louder until it is a pretty decent sssshhhhhhh..... noise if that helps you guys. I know it can also be the power tube o-ring but I don't have ANY to swap it out with currently AND this is brand new AND I closely inspected it and can't see any nicks or problems with it, it looks like a solid o-ring. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS??? I'm probably going to be buying a parts kit but I'm at the end of my sanity.

Thanks in advance,
Shadow Death

[athomas]

Bought a new tac one from AGD themselves and thought that they factory tuned the lvl 10 bolt before shipping out. I even got a receipt of a factory chrono. As soon as I set up my air supply I had a very loud leak coming from the bolt area. I assumed it was in my braided steel/elbows themselves despite everything be plumber taped and screwed in very tight. So I spent my early trouble shooting days swapping those things out and re-plumber taping everything only to get the variables limited down to something internal. So then I realized they must NOT of tuned the bolt. So I proceeded with the typical carrier/shim trial and error and have tried EVERY combination of Carrier with no shims and then each carrier with 1,2,3,4,5 shims. I also tried all of my O-rings for the carriers... otherwise I don't have any other 0-rings that I can replace in the setup without buying a parts kit.

Through spending countless hours on this forum it led me to air it up and pull the trigger and hold it back and see if the leak stopped. It does when I do this.... which also said that is a carrier/shim problem.... BUT I'VE ALREADY TRIED EVERY COMBINATION!!!! Now I was able to greatly reduce the leak from what it was how the factory had set it up... where's it's at now it will start really quiet almost where you can't hear it and just get louder and louder until it is a pretty decent sssshhhhhhh..... noise if that helps you guys. I know it can also be the power tube o-ring but I don't have ANY to swap it out with currently AND this is brand new AND I closely inspected it and can't see any nicks or problems with it, it looks like a solid o-ring. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS??? I'm probably going to be buying a parts kit but I'm at the end of my sanity.

Thanks in advance,
Shadow Death

AGD does a generic setup. It should work for most instances but there are quite a few that seam to have problems. When checking for leaks due to carrier size, always remove all the shims. Shims move the carrier oring closer to the bolt stem bent hole so the chances of a static leak are increased with each shim added.

There are 3 orings in the powertube. There is a little black one around the outside of the carrier. This one almost never leaks because it never moves and it is squeezed quite tight. The white one the goes just inside the powertube tip is just to keep tension on the tip so it doesn't come unscrewed. It will never cause a leak. The third oring is the small white carrier oring that fits inside the powertube carrier. When we change carriers during the tuning process always use the same oring.

Make sure a piece of dirt or teflon tape didn't get caught somewhere it shouldn't be. Make sure you are using an air tank with a high pressure output.

[Shadow Death]

So I have fixed the leak rather inadvertantly. I switched back to the smallest carrier and then aired up my bolt in hand rather than in the gun. (I have a quick disconnect nipple screwed right into the bolt). I was trying to hold the on/off in place with my fingers but didn't have a good enough grip so it slid out into my hand. So I unaired it, put the on/off back in the bolt (something I've done a million times) and reassembled the bolt back into the gun and aired it up and no leak. So definately an issue with the on/off, why simply taking it out and putting it back in fixed it when I had already done that I don't know, but a victory is a victory and I'll take it.

Thanks for all your help,
Shadow

[athomas]

So I have fixed the leak rather inadvertantly. I switched back to the smallest carrier and then aired up my bolt in hand rather than in the gun. (I have a quick disconnect nipple screwed right into the bolt). I was trying to hold the on/off in place with my fingers but didn't have a good enough grip so it slid out into my hand. So I unaired it, put the on/off back in the bolt (something I've done a million times) and reassembled the bolt back into the gun and aired it up and no leak. So definately an issue with the on/off, why simply taking it out and putting it back in fixed it when I had already done that I don't know, but a victory is a victory and I'll take it.

Thanks for all your help,
Shadow

When you aired it up in your hand you may have inadvertently cleaned any debris out with compressed air. Glad to here you got it working.

[creemoney]

Bolt Stick + Leak

Ok, so I just installed a level 10 kit on a minimag with a centerflag hyper frame electronic grip frame. The problem is that when you stop the bolt with a finger or a paintball the bolt doesn't return to it's normal resting position and it vents air out of the bolt and has to be reset by removing the barrel and pushing the bolt back with your finger. I'm using the shortest spring because I couldn't get under 300fps and have the gun fire consistently with the long ones. The power tube oring is set correctly I believe, because the next carrier causes a leak. I currently have 4 shims installed and when I add the 5th, I get a leak. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chris

[athomas]

Ok, so I just installed a level 10 kit on a minimag with a centerflag hyper frame electronic grip frame. The problem is that when you stop the bolt with a finger or a paintball the bolt doesn't return to it's normal resting position and it vents air out of the bolt and has to be reset by removing the barrel and pushing the bolt back with your finger. I'm using the shortest spring because I couldn't get under 300fps and have the gun fire consistently with the long ones. The power tube oring is set correctly I believe, because the next carrier causes a leak. I currently have 4 shims installed and when I add the 5th, I get a leak. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chris

You have bolt stick due to a carrier that is too tight. The next size up causes a leak because you have too many shims installed. Remove all the shims, and use the largest carrier that does not leak. Always use the same carrier oring when changing carriers. If you still want to use shims, install them one at a time until it starts to leak. Then use 1 less than the number that leaks.

[creemoney]

You have bolt stick due to a carrier that is too tight. The next size up causes a leak because you have too many shims installed. Remove all the shims, and use the largest carrier that does not leak. Always use the same carrier oring when changing carriers. If you still want to use shims, install them one at a time until it starts to leak. Then use 1 less than the number that leaks.

I guess I'll give that a try, but I don't know if that will work. I read the instructions first and I set the carrier first before adding any shims, as per the instructions. Not using the same oring in the carriers did trip me up at first, don't know why they don't specify that in the instructions. Any other thoughts.

[athomas]

If it bolt sticks with the loosest carrier that won't leak, then the oring itself may be bad. Try another oring and go through the process again.

[creemoney]

You win!

If it bolt sticks with the loosest carrier that won't leak, then the oring itself may be bad. Try another oring and go through the process again.

Thats was it! I pulled out the first oring I tried and set it aside. I then retuned the carrier with a different oring and it works quite well. I guess sometimes the most basic fix is the answer. Thanks for all the input and help.

Chris

[roncova]

No on/off

Hi all,

Last night I installed a used X-Valve and Level 10 that I ordered. When I gassed up the gun, it blows out the barrel. When I pulled it back out, I noticed two things:

1) The hole where the on/off pin is on my Level 7 valve is empty. Is that correct? If not, can I use the on/off from my old valve somehow?

2) The bolt is getting stuck on the back of the sear, which is stuck in an elevated position. I installed an Intelliframe at the same time as the Level 10, and I don't think it is moving the sear correctly.


Thanks for your help.

[athomas]

Hi all,

Last night I installed a used Level 10 that I ordered. When I gassed up the gun, it blows out the barrel. When I pulled it back out, I noticed two things:

1) The hole where the on/off pin is on my Level 7 valve is empty. Is that correct? If not, can I use the on/off from my old valve somehow?

2) The bolt is getting stuck on the back of the sear, which is stuck in an elevated position. I installed an Intelliframe at the same time as the Level 10, and I don't think it is moving the sear correctly.


Thanks for your help.

1. There definately needs to be an on-off assembly complete with pin or the valve will not function or hold air.

2. Without the on-off pin there is nothing to push the sear back into place so the back of the sear will remain elevated.

[roncova]

1. There definately needs to be an on-off assembly complete with pin or the valve will not function or hold air.

2. Without the on-off pin there is nothing to push the sear back into place so the back of the sear will remain elevated.

Pretty much what I figured. Do you happen to know if I can use the on/off from my Level 7 valve?

[athomas]

Pretty much what I figured. Do you happen to know if I can use the on/off from my Level 7 valve?

A level 10 is just the bolt. The valve part is the same (classic L7 valve = classic L10 valve, L7 retro valve = L10 retro valve). So, yes, use the same on-off if using the same type of valve.

[roncova]

A level 10 is just the bolt. The valve part is the same (classic L7 valve = classic L10 valve, L7 retro valve = L10 retro valve). So, yes, use the same on-off if using the same type of valve.

Sorry, you're right. I had been using the wrong nomenclature. I have a L7 valve that was stock on my gun, and just bought a used X Valve. It appears that the old on/off assembly will not work, because the slot for it in the X Valve is threaded, and slightly narrower.