Originally posted by sup909
** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **
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When you turn up the velocity the bolt cocks because the chamber pressure exceeds the bolt spring pressure. Unfortunately, the chamber pressure also exceeds the release pressure of the regulator piston assembly. I think you may need to make an order for a regulator piston assembly.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Hmm, that is what I figured. Now just so I don't have to go through another headache process, is there any additional parts that I may need to order as well? Spring Pack Assembly or anything?Originally posted by athomasWhen you turn up the velocity the bolt cocks because the chamber pressure exceeds the bolt spring pressure. Unfortunately, the chamber pressure also exceeds the release pressure of the regulator piston assembly. I think you may need to make an order for a regulator piston assembly.
Also does the Reg Piston come with an o-ring on it? I have a parts kit, but knowing would just be convenient.
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I don't think the regulator piston assembly comes with an oring. You don't need any spring packs. If you already have an oring kit, then you have everything you need to service your mag. The only part you need to order is the reg piston assembly, only because yours is an older low pressure design.Originally posted by sup909Hmm, that is what I figured. Now just so I don't have to go through another headache process, is there any additional parts that I may need to order as well? Spring Pack Assembly or anything?
Also does the Reg Piston come with an o-ring on it? I have a parts kit, but knowing would just be convenient.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I ordered a regulator piston earlier this year, and unless i'm mistaken it came with an o-ring on it. This was for an RT though.Originally posted by athomasI don't think the regulator piston assembly comes with an oring. You don't need any spring packs. If you already have an oring kit, then you have everything you need to service your mag. The only part you need to order is the reg piston assembly, only because yours is an older low pressure design.Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.
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I ordered one a couple of years ago. I can't remember if mine had one.Originally posted by snoopay700I ordered a regulator piston earlier this year, and unless i'm mistaken it came with an o-ring on it. This was for an RT though.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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hi!
I would like to get some help thinking about this:
tac1 fairly new shot like 4 tanks of 88/4500psi through it and maybe 1 case of paint, think its great!
I have moved on to the next tighter carrier with the same oring because of some leak after breaking it in, using shortest spring and still 2 shims like when i got it from AGD like 2 weeks ago, shoots from 200fps tried to 270 fps with no problem only a little rough on paint it will chop if i make it.
Feeding it 1000-1100psi from maxflow i get some nice rt shooting.
Now i want it to be gentler on paint so i tried the red spring turned up adjuster to get it to fire dont know fps here BUT there is a fine line between making it fire and not leaking out of the adjuster, it fires but all the reactivity is gone still feeding it 1100psi well its a bit more gentle this way so that works.
also made sure the fieldstripscrew was not to tight, already run it to that
to make sure its not to tightened.
the other long grey spring does not fire until it leaks out of the adjuster and still no reactivity no clue about fps. very gentle when it shoots.
So i changed back to the shortest spring and rt is screaming again does not matter if the adjuster way out there in far in, but its to rough on my finger this will chopely chopchop!paint not my finger!, dont worry been sticking my finger down there in many different markers, spyder,tippmanns,cockers, shoebox, angel v6, matrix i have had many of them tuned down to be gentle when cycling paint.
What should i do? to make it gentle and keep my nice rt
Last edited by TheRock; 12-21-2007, 01:34 PM.
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The fact that it shoots at 200fps means it definately needs to use the red or silver spring. It should work fine at the chamber pressure required to fire at that velocity. It sounds like you have a weak regulator piston assembly. This usually only happens with older units. The newer ones are a higher pressure rating. Tac1's are new, so it should have a high pressure assembly.Originally posted by TheRockhi!
I would like to get some help thinking about this:
tac1 fairly new shot like 4 tanks of 88/4500psi through it and maybe 1 case of paint, think its great!
I have moved on to the next tighter carrier with the same oring because of some leak after breaking it in, using shortest spring and still 2 shims like when i got it from AGD like 2 weeks ago, shoots from 200fps tried to 270 fps with no problem only a little rough on paint it will chop if i make it.
Feeding it 1000-1100psi from maxflow i get some nice rt shooting.
Now i want it to be gentler on paint so i tried the red spring turned up adjuster to get it to fire dont know fps here BUT there is a fine line between making it fire and not leaking out of the adjuster, it fires but all the reactivity is gone still feeding it 1100psi well its a bit more gentle this way so that works.
also made sure the fieldstripscrew was not to tight, already run it to that
to make sure its not to tightened.
the other long grey spring does not fire until it leaks out of the adjuster and still no reactivity no clue about fps. very gentle when it shoots.
So i changed back to the shortest spring and rt is screaming again does not matter if the adjuster way out there in far in, but its to rough on my finger this will chopely chopchop!paint not my finger!, dont worry been sticking my finger down there in many different markers, spyder,tippmanns,cockers, shoebox, angel v6, matrix i have had many of them tuned down to be gentle when cycling paint.
What should i do? to make it gentle and keep my nice rt
What type of barrel are you using, how long before the porting and what size is the inside diameter?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Remove the shims. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Make sure you use the same oring when trying different carriers.
When testing, make sure you hold an item against the face of the bolt. If you hold it too far away from the bolt face, it will hit at full force.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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You bought it new from AGD two weeks ago? I assume it is an X-valve. Contact AGD. Have your invoice number and explain your situation. They should be able to send you a new reg piston assembly under warrantee. You may need to return the one that is in your gun now.Originally posted by TheRocki use stock/rough inside barrel for now until my SLY will arrive.
what should i do if its a weak regulator assembly? possible to shim it up? its should be good i got it from AGD 2 weeks ago valve says vv8399 on both parts.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Don't add shims. The shims do nothing as far as reducing the force on the bolt. They only tune how far the bolt has to travel before it can release air in the event of a blockage.
Holding the squeegie against the bolt face is the proper way to test the level 10. If you hold it farther away you will get full force. The level 10 effect is only meant to be engaged in the first 1/4" of bolt travel.
When testing, hold the squeegie. Don't release it. A loose squeegie is like a projectile and will be shot out. Only if the squeegie doesn't move will the level 10 kick in and reset the bolt. The amount of force felt on the bolt should be fairly light. If it is high, then your chamber force is too high. What is your velocity setting?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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