** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Arturus]

Original setup - #1 carrier, 2 shims and longest spring. Constant 750-850 psi.

I went on to the field, and found out that I could not get it to shoot below 295-315 fps, no matter what I did. After 200-250 shots (along with the 150-200 dry shots) I gave up.

************************************************** *********

I went to the middle spring this time, hoping I could get a reliable FPS in the 270-280s range. I highered the velocity, until it began to shoot. I was getting 295-310 fps again. I kept lowering it, until I hit 275-280s... Was pretty excited about it. I went back to my car, and set it up with the Warp Feed, as I was initially only using a revvy to do the test. This took around 5 minutes... I went back to the chrono and found I could not shoot, unless I highered the velocity. Which left me shooting above 300 again.

************************************************** *********

I finally, with hesitation go to the smallest spring. Again, I start at a 300+ fps. I lower it enough so that I begin to shoot in the 270-275 fps. I go to the field and play 3 straight games, with absolutely no chops and have a great time.

Then on the 4rth game, after resting for about 5-10 minutes I return to the field. I pull the trigger and nothing, which to me indicated that I needed to higher the velocity again. Well, I try to pull the trigger 3-4 more times... then on the next pull the gun cycles and I can shoot, without adjusting/highering the velocity at all. I play for the next 2-3 hours without problem. Then again afte resting 5-10 minutes, I return to the field and run into the same problem... I pull the trigger without result 3 times, then on the 4rth pull I can shoot.

Is this because, in effect I'm pressurizing the valve each time I 'pull' on the trigger, enough to gas it up and have it cycle?

If this is the case, can I do this with the middle or longer spring and have it fully cycle? As in, each time the gun stops cycling I pull the trigger until it begins to shoot reliably; without adjusting the velocity whatsoever... ? Since adjusting the velocity would mean leaving the field and having to chrono.

From reading other threads, these seem to be my options so far:

- Dry fire hundreds of times with the middle and longest spring, and have them 'break in' while shooting hot... And hope I can fire reliably at 270-280s range.

- And/or change to a #1.5 carrier, from the current #1 and hope it allows me to shoot with the longest/middle spring.

Would appreciate any corrections on my assumptions and any other advice on how to get my marker cycling/shooting reliably at 270-280 fps with the middle/longest spring.

No chops with the shortest spring, but would like the added insurance of having the longer springs.

AGD: Its acting exactly like it should with too tight a carrier. Go to the biggest carrier that does not leak and it will solve your problem.

[squidboy69]

with the excessively short spring it chronos at 250+/- with the shortest spring in the kit, it would chrono at 276 every single time, no variation, but it would vent out the back when I got the velocity high enough to cycle the gun.

AGD: You need to buy an new reg piston yours is old school.

[alf]

level 10 item list

I just got my level 10 bolt in today...YAY!!!

but, i dont think i got a backing washer, and i did not get a 2.0 carrier...i DID get 2 3.5 carriers....

is the backing washer still needed? (i think, yes)

well, just wanted AGD to know that at least one kit went out incorrectly...im not complainin, this stuff happens...and the reason that im not complainin is because of the people like Marcia and Joann that Tom has working for him will make my life easy.

I'll get in touch with Marcia tomorrow...shes cool

-alf

[riooso]

Classic with an RT valve and a benchmark trigger frame with a flatline running about 850 p.s.i.. 2 shims, medium spring, 1.5 carrier (a 2 leaks) Shot about a half case of paint through it. I have a bit of a different problem than any post that I have read about here. As long as my tank is filled to above 1500 it seems like it shoots ok but below that I get really bad dropoff. If I single shoot seems ok. Is it suppose to be that way? I am also seeing some really wide crono speeds that I did not have with the standard bolt. The field that I play at wants 285 fps is that a problem?

AGD: switch air systems with someone to see if thats the problem. Does not sound like a lvl10 issue.


I did that and found no difference. I solved problem by going to small spring.
I would like to make it softer but it is pretty good now and I can shoot Hellfire paint, which is really brittle stuff (0 bounce)! Thanks!

[Cobrachs]

My problem is similar to AzrealDarkmoonZ, a slight leak that goes away when I put pressure on the trigger. I tried tightening the field strip screw and it got even worse, so I loosened the screw and it would stop then I would shoot and sometimes it would start hissing again and I would turn the srew a little and it would go away. Do I have to find just the right spot for the screw or is there another problem?

AGD: go half size smaller on the carrier.

[legion]

Kinda a problem, kinda not, more of a question of operation on the L10.

When my bolt stops on a ball, i have to pull the trigger again to reset it... is this normal operation?

Legion

AGD: yes its working perfectly

Legion: Coo, thanks!

[lillfroboy]

Hey the do you guys knoiw the little black things that were on the front of the new bolt mine is gone how do you replace it

BlackVCG: That's the foamie. Your LVL 10 kit should have come with an extra one. Use a good epoxy and glue it back into the bolt

[Angel_Freak069]

HEy i have a prob with the level 10 too

OK like i have a emag, warp with 12 X revy.... anyways when i start shootin like i will get a ball caught half way in all the hopper Warp and revy are workin and i only have about 1900 psi in my flatline and its about 90 degrees outside whats goin on with my gun!!!!???!!!!!!!!

BlackVCG: If I deciphered your post correctly, you need to add one or two shims.

[Havoc_online]

does the bolt stay stuck on the ball or does it rengage?

[CenterFire]

Carrier

No matter how hard I try, I can't seem to get any of the carriers to fit all the way into the power tube tip... I'm gonna go back and keep trying (I've oiled the carrier o-rings too).

Thanks,
CenterFire

EDIT- Got the carrier in finally, but now I need an easily found tool to get it out... just as hard as getting it in *sigh*

BlackVCG: Use a Bic pen to press the carrier in and get a dental pick to pull out the carrier. You can get them at hardware stores.

[Arturus]

CenterFire -

I had the same problem, getting it in and out.

Try using the tip of a plastic pen. One that'll obviously fit into the carrier. Press it it until it feels 'stuck' - you'll have to put a good amount of pressure on to it. Then pull it out.

It takes a little practice, but once done right.. Well, I have no problems taking Carriers out now.

[lillfroboy]

i had the same prob i used the quick strip bolt on the bottom back of the gun the holds the valve assembly on it fits perfectly but still does any of you know if those black things are important in my new LX kit (the ones on the new Super Bolt)

[halo13]

Ok, here's my problem. I tried to install the lvl 10 kit on my emag but I'm getting some weird venting problems. The first time I installed it i used the 2.5 carrier. When I gassed up my gun (750psi input) I satrted to get a gass leak down the barrel, and it didn't make the normal "click" cocking sound. When I tried to shoot the gun it just made a louder-than-usual clicking sound in e-mode. I turned off the air and went down to the next smallest carrier. The air venting noise became quieter but there was still no cocking and the trigger problem is still there. Eventually I went down the the 1.5, 1 carrier. I still have the air leaking problem, the gun doesn't seem to cock, and there is pressure behind the trigger (in manual) even after I turned off my air. I have tried a variety of different spring combos but I haven't screwed with the shims yet, I've consistantly been using 2.

p.s. I'm going to try the #.5 carrier next but I'm waiting for the pressure in my line to do down so I can actually remove it from my gun. Hopefully I can remove it in the next hour. does anybody have a clue as to what my problem could be caused by?

[edit]
Ok, I have successfully installed the level 10 mod. It seems that I really had to crank the velocity. I think I did about 6-8 360 degree turns (which seems really abnormal to me, is it supposed to go up that far?). I tried it out on my squeege and it seemed to work correcty. I just need to get my hands on a chronograph to check the speed. I'm about 92% sure that the lvl 10 stuff is working the way its supposed to, but I don't think i'll be sticking my tounge in my gun any time soon.

Here's another question. I'm currently using the medium length spring. Do the different springs affect velocity at all?

BlackVCG: Get a quick disconnect to bleed the pressure from your system. Yes, you need to crank on the velocity to get it working. The springs will affect the velocity the gun will operate at. The longest spring will let the gun work in the 280-300fps range, middle about 20fps lower and the shortest spring for indoor speeds i.e. 240fps.

[hitech]

Originally posted by halo13
Do the different springs affect velocity at all?

Not exactly. They provide "back" pressure against the bolt. They affect the minimum velocity the marker will shoot at. The longer the spring, the higher the minimum velocity the marker requires to fire. You want the marker to start firing about 20 fps BELOW what you want your velocity to be.

[halo13]

hmm, ok. I think I'll stick on the shortest spring and see what happens. Damn, i need to get my hands on a chrono.