** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[obsolete898]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
obsolete898 Your input and barrel are perfect(as long as the paint fits alright) the long spring is what's killing your effciency. It seems that the problem may lie in your boltstem being slightly off, changing the length of the lp stage. Still, 1-3 balls a game is way too much, how cold was it, did the paint fit the barrel ok? Plastic nubbins ok? I could take a look at it if you want. And your welcome- thank you's are always greatly appreciated.

It was in the 40's, cold but no one else had problems. The paint was a little small for the barrel and I'm pretty sure the nubbins are good. I did notice yesterday that my foamie is gone that could be the problem, but it's always been this way. I'm thinking I'm just gonna send it to AGD, I'm just kinda upset it's gonna take so long.

[BlackVCG]

Send your gun to Havoc. He'll do a good job and his turn around time is much quicker than AGD.

[obsolete898]

To late I already sent it to AGD 5 minutes ago.

Thanx again for the offer Havoc, you've also been a great help.

[Nitza]

After almost finishing installing the LVL X bolt, i realize it wont let my valve completely go back in, wuts the deal?
please help

[olopolorolo]

barrel

Goodday.
I am using the LvL10 with a 1.0 carrier, 2 shims and the shortest of the three springs that were in the kit.
It works well but obviously is not the softest to the ball the LvL10 can get due to the weak spring. The thing is that the gun won't shoot or will leak through the back if I install a longer spring and adjust the velocity. With my barrel taken off (dye ultralite - old model though) the gun shoots fine even with the longest spring on. Puttin in a larger carrier will leak...
The bolt does not seem to interfere with the barrel though as it did with some other guys in this forum (no scratchings or stuff).

thnx for suggesting an explanation

Once set up does the Lvl10 only work for that specific barrel you set it up with?

[dre1919]

I am currently working on my teammates Level 10 install, and I'm basically a little lost here. His setup is this:

Classic RT, with a 800-900 psi preset output.

Ok, we first tried the two ring carrier with two shims like Miscue's video suggests. That leaked out the front. We also turned the velocity up two full turns and used the long spring. So, since it leaked we switched to the medium spring first. It still leaked. Next, we tried going up with the two ring, one dot carrier, two shims, and the medium spring. Leak. Next we tried the one ring, one dot carrier with two shims and the medium spring. Suddenly, it worked just fine...no leaks anywhere, and when I put a squegee down the body it would stop and reset on the squegee everytime. So we thought the Level 10 was set up just fine and fired it several times. after maybe thirty or forty trigger pulls, there was a tiny hiss down and out the front. I thought it might be him having the internals not oiled properly, so he broke it down and oiled his insides. (Something it needed anyway.) Then, once it was put back together it leaked much more than before. We tried pulling both shims out next and it still leaks. Ay ideas of what's going on? Any advice will be tremendously appreciated since my next project will be putting my Level 10 on my Classic RT with a Hyperframe!!

[Havoc_online]

Nitza take your bolt and see if it fits through the body alright, sometimes the body develops a burr that needs to be filed to allow the bolt room to fit.

olopolorolo sounds like you need a new reg piston to get things to work with the longer springs. As for changing barrels, as long as the bolt fits in the barrel alright you should be fine. Problems mainly occur with small bore barrels.

dre1919 Your on the right path, just use the 1.0 carrier and you should be fine.

stay with 2shims and the cut spring.

[Nitza]

well
on another fourm, it said to sand the bolt down..which i did, and it fits very nicely, but today i gassed up...and it wouldnt shoot..the bolt didnt even move..

[Havoc_online]

You really shouldnt sand the bolt down too much, it's hollowed out as it is. I'd only polish the front end of the bolt and only if it didnt fit the barrel I had to use. Then again only after polishing the inside of the barrel and it still didnt fit.

Try and make sure the entire bolt fits through the body washer alirght - If you didnt sand the bolt down evenly it may not work. If it gets hung up, file the body washer, not the bolt.

If everything fits fine and the bolt still doesnt move then some things you could check...

Does the trigger rod gas up? Has your trigger rod been adjusted? You need 1/16" of a gap behind the trigger to give the sear enough room to move.

Is your input high enough? Is your velocity high enough?

Is your carrier too tight?

[Nitza]

i'm pretty sure is sanded evenly *me and my dad did it, hes very good with these kind of things*
"trigger rod" gas up? i'm new to mags..
well i coudlnt measure velocity do to the fact no paint was coming out..or the fact that nothing was moving..
i dont think my carrier is too tight, could be tho..

[Havoc_online]

keep turning up your velocity adjuster till the marker fires.

[Nitza]

how many turns should i be expected to turn it?

[Havoc_online]

depends, but it dont stop till it fires or vents out the adjuster hole.

[dre1919]

I'll give that a shot tommorow when I get some more air. Thanks a lot bro, and, as always, you da man!

[Hexis]

According to some old (circa 1992) documentation (automag manual) the reg piston vents at 550psi. Anyone know at what pressure the ReTro reg pistons vent at (in early runs if ). Also if the new parts from AGD vent at a higher pressure to allow for easy level 10 setup?

BlackVCG- The Retro piston should vent at the same pressure. I believe AGD is setting the vent pressure higher on all of their newer pistons, at least I hope so. The problem is there's a spring in there that holds a seal against the inside of the piston. When the pressure goes higher the force of the spring, it vents. Over time, that pressure weakens the spring and you get a piston that vents too soon with LX. Retro pistons you can't adjust, AIR valve pistons you can if you know how to break the loctite and torque the set screw without damaging the piston.