Originally posted by GordDesigns
ALL about the WARP-FEED
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This is a sticky topic.
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There isn't. You get 9v but more capacity.Originally posted by buzzboyI read that there is nothing wrong with wiring two 9v batteries not in sereis like this
http://x10.putfile.com/3/8019171527.jpgsigpic
CPPA Member #1875
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you can hook a warp to just about any feed. On a powerfeed right(the hopper is on the right side) you can hook it straight down to the warp with the long PF plug(if you are right handed). Or if you have a Powerfeed left hopper you use the 90* adapter.Originally posted by Oddball91i was wondering...is the powerfeed body the kind where the feed tube runs across the body???
i have the kind where it runs across the body and was wondering if i could hook the warp feed up to it?
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Ok, I'm getting a Warp for my Tippman C98 soon and I was told that I need an adapter for this setup to function correctly. I feel a little odd talking about Tippman here, but it's all I can afford at the moment. So my question is two fold: what is this adapter that I am in need of, and is there anything else extra that I need to make this setup function?Last edited by Brettski; 03-24-2006, 11:54 AM.
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I'm reallly not sure. I know that you have to have a grip adapter to use a warp on an a5 but.....Does the 98 have two screws that hold the asa on. If it does have these two screws one in front of the other then the warp will work fine. If it slips into the grip like on an a5 then you need to get an adapter from tippmann.
Regular ASA-Will work fine
Nonregular ASA-Need some sort of adapter
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Reloader B
My Reloader doesn't seem to fit into the top of my warp feed......
Is there any trick or do I need to get the sand paper out?
"There are no atheists in foxholes" isn't an argument against atheism, it's an argument against foxholes. -James Morrow :headbang:
RAMF.NET
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wait nevermind
Sorry guys,
Nevermind. I just needed to use a little elbow grease.
It fits....
"There are no atheists in foxholes" isn't an argument against atheism, it's an argument against foxholes. -James Morrow :headbang:
RAMF.NET
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Warp Question
Made it through the first 10 pages of this thread and decided to just post my question. Don't kill me. I got the bright idea to link in another set of wires to run to my warp. (I already had the intelli running to my revy). I just spliced them right and and did the proper set up. Now both run constantly instead of on the trigger pull. Is this due to faulty wiring or is it due to the set up?
Thanks for your help. Post here, email me ([email protected]) or I'm on AIM (TrixNStyx).
Thanks again,
Sean
I'm thinking faulty wiring. I used the correct phone plug... It's a mono plug with the same spec number from the guide.
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Since I've been working on the above situation, I have come to a conclusion. I have figured you cannot run these simultaneously, all it acchomplishes is making both run continuosly. However if you so choose (or have managed to already install the parts) You can run one or the other.
In order to run just the warp: simply unplug your connector to the Loader.
In order to run just the loader: You cannot just simply unplug the warp as the circuit is still completed (or so it would seem). So you'll need a connector in between the two in order to break the circuit.
Just throwing in a few cents into the mix. Learn from my "mistakes".
Seeing as I have a choice. What do most people prefer? I-frame to warp? or I-frame to Hopper?
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I vote I-frame to warpOriginally posted by SGranierSince I've been working on the above situation, I have come to a conclusion. I have figured you cannot run these simultaneously, all it acchomplishes is making both run continuosly. However if you so choose (or have managed to already install the parts) You can run one or the other.
In order to run just the warp: simply unplug your connector to the Loader.
In order to run just the loader: You cannot just simply unplug the warp as the circuit is still completed (or so it would seem). So you'll need a connector in between the two in order to break the circuit.
Just throwing in a few cents into the mix. Learn from my "mistakes".
Seeing as I have a choice. What do most people prefer? I-frame to warp? or I-frame to Hopper?sigpic
CPPA Member #1875
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my warp
hi people heres my finnished modded warp it has
.12 volt battrey pack (is made buy 10 1/3 size AAA 480mah rechargabel batteries total 12 volts (
.led low battrey warning light green is all good changes to red when close to flate
.12 volt intelli feed to hopper (ricochet apache)hopper and warp only spin when trigger is pulled
.regulated 9 volt feed to power ion(wireing harness made that has the intelli feed wiries and power wires to go to gun)
. on off switch on top of the conpartmen that has the board because i needed the DPDT switch cause when i switch it off it hooks the battery up to the on board chargeing socket
tryed to upload pics but wont do it sorry
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Who did the led mod for you? or did you do it yourself? I like that mod.Originally posted by eddahenryhi people heres my finnished modded warp it has
.12 volt battrey pack (is made buy 10 1/3 size AAA 480mah rechargabel batteries total 12 volts (
.led low battrey warning light green is all good changes to red when close to flate
.12 volt intelli feed to hopper (ricochet apache)hopper and warp only spin when trigger is pulled
.regulated 9 volt feed to power ion(wireing harness made that has the intelli feed wiries and power wires to go to gun)
. on off switch on top of the conpartmen that has the board because i needed the DPDT switch cause when i switch it off it hooks the battery up to the on board chargeing socket
tryed to upload pics but wont do it sorrysigpic
CPPA Member #1875
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Warping a cocker and general Q&A
Hello all. I've read mostly through this thread and noticed a few problems that I experienced and fixed but either haven't been addressed in one place or not addressed at all. I've warped my Autococker Trilogy Competition with an AGD warp so here's my two cents.
1st problem: won't sense gun firing
SOLUTION: activate vibration sensor by placing jumper only on the bottom prongs of the switch to the right of the circuit board
2nd problem: vibration sensor works but cannot adjust sensitivity
SOLUTION 1: if it's a new warp break in the motor by running the warp continuously until it drains a fresh battery.
SOLUTION 2: I had a used warp and figured the problem was the blue potentiameter so I replaced it with a 10kohm potentiameter and it now works like a charm.
General problem: mounting a warp on a vert feed cocker
SOLUTION: either make an adaptor yourself with a dremel and any appropriate diameter plastic tube from a hardware store or purchase the q-loader's elbow. Mine shipped off of ebay with that elbow and fit my feed neck perfectly.
I hope this helps some people and in return I have my own question:
Considering only balls already in the warp feed drive balls up the feed tube, when the gun is sideways and a revy doesn't feed balls about how many shots do people usually get before the warp must be refilled? Thank you.
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