BlackVCG's ULT Thread

[decimator4]

Ya, I had to tighten the screw as tight as it can go, and it works. I feel like such an idiot for getting mad when it was sumthing so little. Ok, well thanks alot for helping me

[SpdElemts]

this may been asked already but i dont feel like searching fot it so bare wit me. Can the rt on/off assem fit in the Emag valve and shoot properly? The emag valve is not going to be used in the emag.

thanks

[hAppy]

Originally posted by SpdElemts
this may been asked already but i dont feel like searching fot it so bare wit me. Can the rt on/off assem fit in the Emag valve and shoot properly? The emag valve is not going to be used in the emag.

thanks

yes, b/c an rt valve is an rt valve, and a ULT will work in any rt valve

i got a question! will you get enough "reactiveness" for you to sweetspot on about an output of 800 psi?

[the larch]

prolly not.

[silverstreakfla]

Set up Help

I have a classic mag, with x valve, stock trigger, ult, and a 68 4000 tank. What would be a good starting point shim wise in the level 10 and the ULT?

[Boobie817]

i have a major problem

I just bought my ULT with my X-valve. When i put in the ULT it doesnt do anything. I can push the trigger all the way in but it doesnt do anything. Its not charging or anything. When i put the old on/off in it works fine. No leaks or anything. it works great without the ULT. I have a preset tank, a PMI 68/45, its full. i tried all the shims, 1 shim, no shims, everything. please help, this thing sucks. Very disappointed.

["the FitZ"]

Got mine yesterday, it works good. But I have a few problems w/ it. 1st: the bolt sticks forward just slightly sometimes(no venting).2nd: should I have take the smaller white oring out w/ the old on/off. I did and it has no leaks i couldn't get enough shims in with that oring on. i believe i have 3 ULT shims. I also have lvl 10. 3rd: what is a good way to keep fomies in. The cost is adding up. I use super glue.

Still short-stroking but i can get past that. It's in a minimag AIR valve. a new one if that makes a difference.

Thanks,

[BlackVCG]

There shouldn't be any other o-rings in the on/off other than the ones that are held in on the ULT assembly. The one at the base of the on/off, the one in the top that the pin seals on and the black one inside the two pieces.

Bolt stick with ULT is usually a result of not enough shims or it not being broke in enough.

[PaintSkater00]

How can I tell if I have a SS or aluminum valve without taking out the on/off?

[melster]

If your valve is anodized, it's aluminum.

["the FitZ"]

My ULT is acting up again. It has a small leak holding pressure against the bolt. So that is why it sticks. It doesnt stick so much anymore but it is shortstroking when it shouldn't. I cycle it fully and it short strokes every other shot because of the leak. I have tried all the shims, no shims, everything. The gun won't function w/ less than 2 in it. i have 3 now. 4 makes no difference. should I have ALL ULT and ALL lvl 10 I have left in. I believe that would be 8 shims.

thanks,
Jared

["the FitZ"]

Also, my on/off pin is very slow about coming out. I am using a PE 850psi preset.

[drx975]

Ok Jared I have a minimag AIR valve, ULT, and Lvl 10 too... and everything works with me.

Here's what I did.. I would have to check, but I believe I have 2 Lvl 10 shims in the Lvl 10 setup (check your carrier size and be sure that its not leaking there). I have 4 ULT shims and 2 Lvl 10 shims in the ULT valve, and everything else is properly oiled and all. Try that setup if you havent already and see what happens...be sure to oil everything REALLY ridiculously in that ULT.

What I've noticed (by the way I have a preset 850 too) with my ULT in this valve and with my air tanks is that the pin DOES come out slowly. The thing is, I have so many shims in that it doesnt matter--the pin shoots out far enough only because I have put effectively 8 ULT shims in. Putting extra shims in means shortening the essential length of the on/off pin, meaning it needs to return less distance each time, thus less short stroking. With no shims in, you have absolutely no hope of that pin returning to its initial position--the gun cant handle pushing it for that long of a time. If we were running an RT, it would push on that pin until it went back to its normal position...AIR valves dont do this.

With your setup (even 4 ULT shims) you will STILL encounter this problem. So to counter this, make sure you have that pin oiled very very very well, make sure it slides in and out easily and freely, and put 4 ULT shims in and 2 Lvl 10 shims...if you find that its working better but not enough..put more in..just also make sure that the on/off assembly is screwed in tightly.

FYI... 1 ULT shim is 1/2 the width of a Lvl 10 shim....so 2 ULT shims = 1 Lvl 10 shim

[nate2k191]

Holy Shaith. I had a classic 68. then i got a x-valve and ult. intalled them at the same time and tried it out, my gun was acting out of breath, i'd get 1 or 2 shots off full power then it would just puff.

i messed with my x forever to no avail, then i thought it might be ult so i put in the regular on/off and it worked kinda well, so i went lookin for a ult forum found this, and read some then realized i prolly need more shims in the ult and BAM!!@@#!@%#%!#%!#$^ it works like a charm, my gun is beast now! woot. 5 shims works great for me. GG ULT thread

["the FitZ"]

thanks drx975 that shim setup works great. everything is fine except the o-ring on top of the on/off leaks only sometimes. I'll just go pick a parts kit and fix that.