finally finished my homemade e-mag conversion...

[ShooterJM]

Man! I looked around for months on how I could cram stuff into a frame! I went with a mac valve that seems to be working pretty well right now. Just need to do some more tweaking to my frame to get the microswitch to hit right.

Man I need to find all those parts and start that project up again!

[Jack & Coke]

ShooterJM, pics!

[ShooterJM]

Yeah I just have to dig all the stuff up, I just moved so it's all in boxes somewhere. Don't expect anything nearly that neat though. I ended up having to drop most of the guts into a small sidesaddle type box that sits between the drop and the frame.

basically the electritians is WAY more refined and nicer and cooler and all that good stuff!

[the electrician]

Nicad- It's all good brother. I was just commenting on the idea.

bsasically i don't like what smart parts is doing, but I don't really play alot of tournaments, and I don't plan on buying a mass produced electro-gun. So it doesn't affect me in that way. I do know that I don't like any of the guns smart parts has manufactured. just not for me.

so when are you gonna show us some pics of that integrated rail, electro-grip, e-mag design?

[Crimson_Turkey]

I'm not sure of the specifics of it but a power box transformer can generate 150,000 volts out of a 9volt battery (think taser). So could we run this thing on a watch battery, or at least a AAA?

[dudedude]

I don't think the problem is generating the voltage, but rather balancing the power needed for the solenoid/valve against size in order to get a couple thousand shots out of a battery. Plus I don't think tasers are designed to fry someone's brains out at the nice jolly rate of 13 zaps per second (18 if you have a quick finger)

One solution might be to use the small form factor batteries that cameras use. Those things usually come in 9-12 V varieties, and are about 2/3 as long as a AA and a little bit thicker. I don't know how many milliamps those things can put out, but it might be something worth trying if space is tight.

[LudavicoSoldier]

I don't suppose that you could remove the guts and arrange them outside of the frame so I could get a better idea of how the actuator is attached to the sear? Pretty please?

[the electrician]

turkey- I don't think that would work like you want it to. like I said you probably could use 12 solenoids if you use a rechargeable 9.6 batt and keep it charged up hot (in the 10 to 11v range) or you could do some research and try and et a 6 volt model. that's what I did.

dudedude- using special batteries is one way to go, but that would get expensive, and is not very convenient at all. the simplest thing is almost always the best. 9v rechargeables are readily available,along with chargers, and you end up saving alot of money in batteries.

spleefstylez- the actuator is not attached to the sear. it doesn't need to be.

[warpedside671]

Electrician I would like to coment on your 2end gen Emag.
Dude your work is SWEET.It is the best mod done to a mag since PUNISHER.Don't get me wrong Punisher's work rocks,
but you went more for preformance then cosmetic type of mod.I also like the idea on how you used a classic body for your mod ,and I must say your valve shround is sweet.

Keep up the good work man.If you have any other mods please E-mail me .

with these kinds of mods dude you can make a army of mags

[Digits]

Just a quick question.. How hard was it to program the board?

[the electrician]

warpedside671- thanks alot. yeah punisher's stuff is beautiful, and I'm sure it performs great. my stuff is basic performance orientated mods like you said.

the valve shroud is just a piece of aluminum tubing, cut at a 22 degree angle on the back, and a portion sliced off the bottom. just enough for a tight fit. then a slot is made for the fitting on the side. I originally made it for looks and found that it helped disipate cold off the valve back when it ran on co2, not much of a difference, but a little. glad you like it.

Digit- you're funny. define "hard to program". my idea of hard to program and yours, might be a bit different. but really it's easy. you don't need to know hexadecimal or BCD code or anything. you're not actually going to "program it", your just setting the timers. have you seen the instructions on their website? basically it is set to a default mode. to set the timers to what you want you just hold the trigger down while you turn it on, then release the trigger. now it's in "program mode". follow the instrucions, it's all done through the trigger. single solenoid guns(open bolt guns mostly) are really quick and easy to set-up.
once you've done it you'll see its really nothing at all.
you'll start to memorize what order the registers are in and how to change the timers.

[Digits]

Originally posted by the electrician
warpedside671- thanks alot. yeah punisher's stuff is beautiful, and I'm sure it performs great. my stuff is basic performance orientated mods like you said.

the valve shroud is just a piece of aluminum tubing, cut at a 22 degree angle on the back, and a portion sliced off the bottom. just enough for a tight fit. then a slot is made for the fitting on the side. I originally made it for looks and found that it helped disipate cold off the valve back when it ran on co2, not much of a difference, but a little. glad you like it.

Digit- you're funny. define "hard to program". my idea of hard to program and yours, might be a bit different. but really it's easy. you don't need to know hexadecimal or BCD code or anything. you're not actually going to "program it", your just setting the timers. have you seen the instructions on their website? basically it is set to a default mode. to set the timers to what you want you just hold the trigger down while you turn it on, then release the trigger. now it's in "program mode". follow the instrucions, it's all done through the trigger. single solenoid guns(open bolt guns mostly) are really quick and easy to set-up.
once you've done it you'll see its really nothing at all.
you'll start to memorize what order the registers are in and how to change the timers.

Sounds good :)..

[dyeguy65]

if you ever get time to draw up directions and how you did all this...please let me know. i get the jist of what does what and how, but how to mount everything and where to buy it all is another thing. also, is that a benchmark frame? im sure milled it out quite a bit, at least thats what it looks like in the picture. anyway, to the point. if it wasnt too much trouble, could you list the parts needed for this? if you want you can PM me since we talkin through em sorta now. lmk on that.thnx

[trains are bad]

How do you think this project would work out without the morlock board, say if the sear was actuated the whole time the trigger was pressed? It'd be simpler, but still be short strokeable?

[dudedude]

I don't know if you'll run into problems with amp draw requirements of the valve, but all you would need would be a two-state state machine with a 555 chip. You'd have a ready state to wait for the trigger pull, then a timer state using the 555 chip to activate the 3-way for the number of ms needed to prevent short stroking. Throw in an adjustable pot to set the dwell time, and you're set.

edit:
My mistake, you'd need 3 states: trigger press, dwell, and trigger release. If you did it with two states you'd have full auto.