finally finished my homemade e-mag conversion...

[PaintballSmurf13]

I want one..I want one BAD...okay who's up to make one in the future?
-Ryan F.

[Buff]

I must say that is one awesome setup

I do have one question though. What advantage does this have over a normal e-frame that just trips the sear, instead of having the xtra pneumatics?

I say again, sweet!
Buff

[the electrician]

you mean like the hyperframe? it uses a direct solenoid actuated sear.

well really I don't think there is any performance advantage. mine will work with any old valve, and any old on/off. it can create 11 lbs of force on the sear if it was needed. this means it would run just about any mag, completely reliable. I've heard that the hyperframe can be particular,I've shot one, but I have never owned one so I can't really say anything good or bad about them.

the reason I chose this design is because when I analyzed how much force was needed and at what length of movement, it was alot more than what I would want to ask a solenoid to do directly. it would take a larger solenoid than would fit into a plain 45 frame with standard grips.
when choosing a design, if you need a small to medium amount of force, with a short stroke, and lot's of speed, a solenoid would be a good choice to directly actuate the load.
but if you need a large amount of force with a medium stroke, or you need the same amount of force through the whole stroke, along with speed, a pneumatic actauation is a good choice. this means an air cylinder, valve actuator, or air piston controlled by a solenoid valve.

my design uses a plain old 45-frame, so any grips can be used. which I think is more comfortable. but that's just me.

it uses a morlock, so it has built in intellifeed, several firing modes and is totally programable down to the millisecond.

so really it's about preference.

doesn't really matter to me, I wouldn't buy a hyperframe. I would rather have the fun of designing and building my own frame. it is cheaper too

[Buff]

You wouldn't mind laying down the parts list, would u?
I think I will start making my own, except I would practice with a pneumatic only trig, then selinoid....
thanks
Buff

[tony3]

where exactly can you buy morlock boards?

[the electrician]

the morlock boards can be purchased here:

http://exarin.com/

there's alot of little parts to this thing and a few I just hand made. but I can give you a few.

the actuator I used is a clippard # MPA-3 air pilot valve actuator. highly modified for this use. if you read back on the thread, you'll see I've mentioned all this before.

if you going to go just pneumatic, then you can use a clippard # SMAV-3 for a small 3-way to put behind the trigger. but if you do some research, I'm sure you could find something that has a softer actuation force, from a different manufacturer. it is about 20 oz. the SMAV-3 only needs about .5 mm to actuate so it is short.

other than that it's up to you how you set it up.

punisher of punisher's customs makes some wicked pneuma-mag set-ups. not to mention he's actually an airsmith.

I just make my own stuff because I don't really like some of the high end guns available and I don't think they are worth the money. and really, it's boring to me to just own a gun. I can't leave well enough alone :)

on another note:

I've been doing different mods to the on/off of the e-mag mod. I first noticed that my bps tops out at about 14 with the lvl 10. it used to be able to get 16 bps with a standard bolt, with no drop off. so I shortened the on/off pin. you can't go too short or the lvl10 won't resest properly. I shaved .031" off the pin and got it back to 16 bps, while using the lvl 10.

then I started using a modified RT on/off. modified the top of it to resemble the standard on/off top, and shaved the pin the same .031". I replaced the internal urethane o-ring with a soft buna-n o-ring. this made it so I could reduce the input into the sear actuator to half the psi. it was a minimum 80 psi, but now 40 psi will work. this means half the air consumption and it's just plain easier on the whole system. not to mention faster reaction time is available.

then I started looking at the AGD e-mag. it uses a quad o-ring on top of the on/off. so I decided to try this. looking at it. it has two seals instead of one. but you can just use the bottom one to seal the on/off. this seal surface is closer to the top of the on/off and when it opens, it opens to a larger flow area much faster than using a normal o-ring. this means the on/off in can be shortened some more. but instead I decided to use some shime on the on/off just like what is used on the ULT on/off. this let's me test length, with out permanently shortening the pin. I was able to shim the on/off .040" and it still did not make the pin seal point so low that the lvl 10 didn't reset. it worked perfectly.

as a matter of fact the the quad ring helped so much that I was able to decrease the total cycle time to .053 sec.(53msec) this is about 18.8 bps!! no drop off with a standard valve ! lot's of fun.

so if you make your own e-mag, and you use a standard valve, you would do well to grab an RT on/off and some quad rings.

[Buff]

could I use an RT on/off with only a standard trigger on the mag? I do not forsee me having the time to do the rest of the mod until later, just wanna see what I can do to get the trigger faster then stock, and to get it to work more gas efficiently with lvlX.
Buff

[the electrician]

you could try, but with the standard valve, and just a mechanical trigger, you could have problems getting it to work without modifying it. it will make the trigger pull lighter, but the pin will not have as much force to return the sear all the way with your finger on the trigger. this will cause bad sear and bolt wear.

I've been trying to get it to work, but so far, it doesn't want to return properly.

[nicad]

just dropping in to say a video is up of the hAir trigger..

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1360501

out!

[the electrician]

YAAAAAHOOOOO!!

I posted a reply in the cocker/mag hybrid thread.

[Digits]

How exactly does an actuator work?? It looks like a plain ol tube to me..

[OysterBoy]

PLEASE, for the sake of us droolers, post a parts list!



Great job man, I REALLY would liek to know what parts were involved and the difficulty of this mod.

[warpedside671]

Electrician Is it posible to do this same nod to a typhoon
,it maybe of the subject but I'm a curiuos...lol

Nicad it's nice to hear from you so how are you and tom getting along ?Hope all goes well ....ESTA

[the electrician]

If you look at some of my previous posts, I describe the parts used and what I did to them.

but really, alot of it is handmade, it would take a book to explain an describe what you need to do to make the stuff.

I wouldn't reccomend it as a "beginner's project"
you would have to have some experience with a mill, a lathe, and an understanding of electronics and pneumatics.

[adlar]

In your e-mag version, it looks like you have a ram pushing horizontally against the sear to actuate the part the sear rod would have hit. I thought in one of your posts somewhere you mentioned having attached directly to the sear. I'm currently looking for ideas of how to attach my solenoid directly to the sear. I'm using a similar pull type 'noid to what the Emag uses except with a return spring to compensate for the decreased return of the ULT. As you suggested it can't generale enough force to pull the sear down by attaching at the same location as the current sear rod. This is probably why the Emag sear has a separate rod for the plunger. I could just use an emag sear, or fabricate a similar pull angle from my existing sear. Wondering what your take might be on this.

On a different note. Wouldn't a stabilizer work in place of the rock for your e-mag conversion since it can regulate from 0 psi up? Wondering if the project could be done with a simple vert stab in place of a foregrip, instead of having the rock sticking out the front. It seems like Nicad is using it this way on his hair frame, but I can't be sure. Not knowing how all the plumbing is routed and fitted I am only speculating.