you can hook up directly to the sear, just think about where the extra arm comes off on the e-mag sear. I use to have a ram connected to the sear, about midway on the part of the sear that catches the bolt. I drilled a hole through the sear there. it ends up being about where the extra sear arm would put you on the e-mag sear. but drilling the sear is not an easy task. you have to have patience and the proper tools to drill hardened steel.
you could buy an e-mag sear perhaps. this would give you a place to connect.
I went with the horizontal set-up because it is very compact, and you do not have to attch anything to the sear at all. much easier to deal with. everything breaks down for cleaning or repair much faster.
with a pull solenoid, you are limited to pulling the front of the sear and using up alot of space in your gip frame.
the return spring also absorbs some of the force generated by your solenoid. what ever it's pressure is, or compression in an amount of force, take that right off the top of the force available to mave the sear.
the use of a stabilizer- yes it could be done. one would have to use a "T" fitting on the stabilizer input. so that the 800 psi air supply could also be available for the gun. this leaves you a large volume of low pressure air for the function of the sear actuator (which I don't really need), but eliminates the volume of air to the main valve of the gun. I like the way my set up has no bottom line. it is an ASA directly into a gas-thru grip. the gas thru grip is basically a large volume of air, regulated and ready to go for the main valve.
you're right in thinking it would be a bit sneakier, sleeker look. my friend was setting his pneumatic-sear mag like that. but I like my set up the way it is. I already had all the parts lying around, so it was the cheapest way to go. :)
actually, the gun looks completely different now. it has a black ULE body, a milled rail, and a new drop and ASA. all the rest of the parts have been changed to black to match. when it's all said and done, the grip frame and rail will be anodized to match the ULE body. I'll have some pics up eventually. it looks alot better.
you could buy an e-mag sear perhaps. this would give you a place to connect.
I went with the horizontal set-up because it is very compact, and you do not have to attch anything to the sear at all. much easier to deal with. everything breaks down for cleaning or repair much faster.
with a pull solenoid, you are limited to pulling the front of the sear and using up alot of space in your gip frame.
the return spring also absorbs some of the force generated by your solenoid. what ever it's pressure is, or compression in an amount of force, take that right off the top of the force available to mave the sear.
the use of a stabilizer- yes it could be done. one would have to use a "T" fitting on the stabilizer input. so that the 800 psi air supply could also be available for the gun. this leaves you a large volume of low pressure air for the function of the sear actuator (which I don't really need), but eliminates the volume of air to the main valve of the gun. I like the way my set up has no bottom line. it is an ASA directly into a gas-thru grip. the gas thru grip is basically a large volume of air, regulated and ready to go for the main valve.
you're right in thinking it would be a bit sneakier, sleeker look. my friend was setting his pneumatic-sear mag like that. but I like my set up the way it is. I already had all the parts lying around, so it was the cheapest way to go. :)
actually, the gun looks completely different now. it has a black ULE body, a milled rail, and a new drop and ASA. all the rest of the parts have been changed to black to match. when it's all said and done, the grip frame and rail will be anodized to match the ULE body. I'll have some pics up eventually. it looks alot better.
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