Need beta testers for efficiency inserts

[hill160881]

Looks like these will cost $12 to $15, shipped for the beta run with the requirement of feedback. Meaning the buyer needs to have purchased the red power tube oring and are prepared to pay attention to there air to ball consumption pretty closely as they play. Then report back those numbers and any tuning issues they had.

I need feedback so I cam make any needed changes before I have a bunch of these made.

These are the prototypes



There are 5 spots for the Classic and 5 for the X-valve. So post if you want to pick one up and help with the testing process. If any changes are needed the people who get a beta version will get the improved version free of charge.

Classic Valve(I will do a video but you may need to have the power tube removed by a pro on this valve)
1. chadders(MCB)
2.leloup
3. redlaser666
5.
5.


X-valve (I will do a video on how to remove this valve's power tube.)
1. chadders(MCB)
2.sjrtk
3.leloup
4.stevewar
5.bumbabeef


Locations for the red power tube oring and so you know what it looks like. Once removed you can open and close the power tube area many times without damaging the oring, but the first time destroys it usually.

Xvalve


Classic



Here is how to getting into the shot chamber on a classic valve. Try at your own risk

There is the Lathe method and the drill press method

The drill press method(I think Loguzzzzzz did a thread on this once)
Get it clamped firmly into the jaws

Get it turning and use a hacksaw blade and cut about a 1/16" deep. (See the lathe pics for a better depth and location pic) It should unscrew with little effort once you cut deep enough. It is up to you what you crank on the two with to loosen it, but I dont suggest pliers unless you have many layers of Etape on it.



The lathe method.
Here is where you cut. 1.6mm back from the face.

Cut until it comes apart with some but not much force, trying it regularly so you dont cut to deep.

And done.

[leloup]

If I could get my classic taken apart, I'd do that, but I am curious on the x. I won't be able to play again for another month, so how long are you willing to wait for data? Also, would there be a discount on any final product you go with?

[hill160881]

Like I say in the OP, if any changes are made to the inserts the new ones will be free to the ones doing the beta testing.

No hurries on anything and I wont have the inserts for another week. I will put you down for an X.

[bbotts77]

I would volunteer, but I'm not sure when I'll get to play.

[stevewar]

can you explain the theory behind these mods?

[hill160881]

The reason the mag is so inefficient is to reduce pneumatic force on the ball. (I think)

By reducing the volume in the shot chamber you need more pressure to do the same amount of work. A higher pressure lower volume seems to just be more efficient in general due to the restrictive design of the power tube. So I was left with two options to get better #, Option one is to make a power tube with a larger opening and then a bolt to fit it. Or option two, volume reduction. Option two was way easier and affordable.

So the inserts take up volume making me turn up the pressure. This makes the blast of air that propels the ball more intense but with todays paint it has not caused ball braking.

[sjrtk]

I am willing to give this a shot for the X valve. Sign me up.

[Justus]

Hill, you should package deal this thing with a red powertube o-ring. Increase the price a bit if necessary. But I think you'd have more takers for beta testing and on the final run if you send the o-ring with the mod.

[hill160881]

Hill, you should package deal this thing with a red powertube o-ring. Increase the price a bit if necessary. But I think you'd have more takers for beta testing and on the final run if you send the o-ring with the mod.

I am trying to do this but finding them is not easy.

[stevewar]

The reason the mag is so inefficient is to reduce pneumatic force on the ball. (I think)

By reducing the volume in the shot chamber you need more pressure to do the same amount of work. A higher pressure lower volume seems to just be more efficient in general due to the restrictive design of the power tube. So I was left with two options to get better #, Option one is to make a power tube with a larger opening and then a bolt to fit it. Or option two, volume reduction. Option two was way easier and affordable.

So the inserts take up volume making me turn up the pressure. This makes the blast of air that propels the ball more intense but with todays paint it has not caused ball braking.

I volunteer with my xvalve.

[leloup]

I'll try my hand at taking apart my classic, so put me down for one of each.

[bumbabeef]

Hill put me down for the x-valve

[GEE TEE]

What are the difficulties with stripping the classic - is the powertube loctited in place?

[DevilMan]

The classic valves are "welded" from what I understand. You have to cut the weld very carefully and then they unscrew.

EARLY ones were not welded.

DM

[Justus]

Where exactly would you get a red powertube o-ring? Tunaman? AGD direct?