Why hasn't AGD thought about making some of these? I think they would sell for anyone trying to use a mag in competitive play. It could come with a level 10 and not have the RT effect. And being made of aluminum would save on weight. Is there a downside I'm missing?
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There are ways to make the x valves not rt. I think most people would rather buy the xvalve and do this than buy an aluminum classic valve and not have the option to rt. -
I think tournaments would be more comfortable knowing that the valve doesn't even have the ability to do it.sigpicComment
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If you want the retro valve to not RT, use a ULT properly. The other option is to use a classic on-off assembly. Then you will have the same stiff trigger pull so that the differential force will be much less, especially when using a level 10 setup.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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OK let me explain the problem. I have been told that in the UWL you can not use, X-valves, RT Valve or any of the like except classic valves. I believe this is the rule for all competitive play. Classic valves are heavier therefore backloading a ULE marker. This is the reason I believe there would be a market for an aluminum Classic valve.Originally posted by athomas View PostsigpicComment
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Do you have girly tooth pick arms? My classic mag with Intelliframe & stainless Lapco isnt heavy at all. Thats with co2 or air. Back in the day my Spyder cleared 15 pounds without paint or co2, a mag isnt ****. I suggest working out some to beef up your arms.Originally posted by Carnage reigns View PostComment
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Forgot this, the subject of an aluminum classic valve, I would be down to buy one if I could get an X valve & the classic color matched to the rest of the gun.Comment
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Here's my thought,
Regular stainless classic valve, ule body w/front chopped, factory rail ule milled by Luke, ule'd frame of choice with a pneu setup. For counter balance to the "crazy heavy" valve run a stainless back barrel... or, on my classic my 14" dye stainless with 68/45 had near perfect balance. It was "heavy" when carrying it to the field in one hand loaded with paint etc... but once you shouldered the marker the balance made it seem weightless.
I don't have ule milling on my classic, but I just suggested it to make up for the full stainless valve... you could also substitute pneu for electro in the frame as well....Comment
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If we turn this into a lifting contest I'm pretty sure I could hold my own. That's not the point. Classic valves are heavy and shiny. I think there would be a market for an aluminum classic valve. It would allow AGD an entrance back into the tourney world, if someone truly desired to do so, and give AGD another product to sell to make money. And the fact that it could be anodized to match would be awesome. And i'm sorry about u having to lug around a 15 lbs marker. Just cuz u did it doesn't mean I should.sigpicComment
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I'd love an aluminum classic valve, but AGD isn't going to be making squat. "There is no money in paintball anymore."
Until then, you get to scavenge parts.
An aluminum AA reg back will bring your classic valve within 1 oz of an X-valve.
The weight of components is cumulative -- a little weight here, a little weight there, and suddenly you're carrying an extra pound. Multiply that by constant play over the course of an entire day and yes, your arms will get tired. If you're not tired, it's not a sign of your strength -- it's a sign that you're not playing hard.Originally posted by oldironmudder View Post"Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.Comment
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If I recall agd made two different length "factory" rail systems and Luke ules both
I didn't specify which or any lrngth
sorry its early and that was heavy sarcasm
I actually do prefer my emag rail I picked up over my standard benchy, now that I modified it to use am/mm grips and asa's so I do agree there, still, once ule'd I think either rail would be so.close in weight only a scale could tellComment
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I know u could ULE any size rail. A look at any mag I have put together or sold shows I understand that fact. I also am not a fan of older mag or mag parts (please have some mercy on this comment). I like newer parts, e-mag length, ULE mags and I want to be able to play in UWL if I find a team with my mag. Is that so much to want?Originally posted by Cokrkilr View PostIf I recall agd made two different length "factory" rail systems and Luke ules both I didn't specify which or any lrngth
sorry its early and that was heavy sarcasm
I actually do prefer my emag rail I picked up over my standard benchy, now that I modified it to use am/mm grips and asa's so I do agree there, still, once ule'd I think either rail would be so.close in weight only a scale could tellsigpicComment
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Cap the Classic valve and run an HPR as your foregrip.
I mentioned it a couple of times about getting some classic valves milled, but so far havent found anyone willing to do it. Personally, I just want valve, not the reg made.Comment
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Well.... considering AGD is done making parts id say, yes. It is too much to want. Its like the "new gun from AGD" thread. Pipe dreams...
I just think it would cost as much to produce as the x, but still have the same performance of its stainless counterpart. And I wouldn't pay $200+ for a valve that's the same as a $50 one over 5-6-7oz weight savings when you could just shave it out somewhere else.... but that's just meComment
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