I thought with the back being fixed it might catch on some of the rounds when they spun. Since it's all one piece in your design that isn't an issue. I have never touched a first strike round so I don't know how firm the skirt is or how likely it would be to snag on any moving parts. Turns out I'm just trying to re-invent the wheel for you.
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Great idea Goatboy!!
Along the ideas of having the loading holes on the back plate for reloading. Could you add an additional plate with the same offset holes, something light weight and made of acrylic? The 2nd plate would be able to quarter turn to give access for reloading and then close, hopefully you follow what I’m saying
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Yes, it's the back of one of the AA regs. It helps shed some weight off. I'm still a big fan of the classic valves.Originally posted by debruynda View Post
I thought of that one too (and a couple of in-between solutions). It just seems more complex than needed, and if I have to slide it open with my finger anyways, it doesn't offer much benefit over what I've got now aside from making the back end completely sealed. Granted that would be nice particularly in wet/dusty conditions. I really do love a completely sealed gun.Originally posted by VecTor View PostAlong the ideas of having the loading holes on the back plate for reloading. Could you add an additional plate with the same offset holes, something light weight and made of acrylic? The 2nd plate would be able to quarter turn to give access for reloading and then close, hopefully you follow what I’m saying
Another option would be to make soft paddles and shape them so they grip onto the paint so it wouldn't fall out, but would still be diverted easily. It would allow for an open backside, or even having the outer ring of the loader open or removable so rounds could be pushed in sideways. Somewhat tricky to design and implement though, especially if you still want to retain compatibility with normal paint. Again, it's about the skirts -- the skirts makes these rounds a PITA to feed, you can also use them to your advantage.
This is all kind of a dance between mechanical complexity, performance, and manual dexterity. Different players will want a different mix between the three, so there are different paths that others may prefer."Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.Comment
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I wonder if someone can just flip a few things around on the BT rip drives and make this work for warp left 50 rounds that's allComment
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Any updates? I really like the idea of a tight drum for first strikes on one side, small hopper of standard paint on the other. I'd imagine it should be easy to switch between the two with a twist lock.
What style of bolt are you using in your set up?Comment
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Yeah, its on the way amidst my myriad side projects. I did a first pass cleanup of files (likely the only cleanup) , made manifest/descriptions and looked at distribution options. The files released will be the FS loader and mag2cocker adapter, in true source (OpenSCAD) form."Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.Comment
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Quick update on this... I set the project on the backburner to work on some other stuff, and quite frankly to wait for someone to do my work for me. And it turns out somebody in fact did happen to produce exactly what I was looking for.
I added a planetary gear set on the front of the loader to fix some of the nagging issues that I had on-field. Namely, the gearing allows:
- Visual confirmation of prewind status, so I can know when I need to actually put more winds in. Not knowing the status seemed to lead to the majority of hijinx on the field.
- Overdrive so that I don't literally have to wind the full rotations with my hand. It's about maybe a 4:1 ratio or so (actually less; possibly 6:1), so I only rotate the annulus gear less than 1/4 turn to get a full rotation of the output.
- A rotation limiter to keep it from going into free-spin when empty. Since I now have visual indication and control of the winds, I can put exactly as many winds as I have rounds (more or less), so at the end when there are no more rounds, it will stop rotating. Like there will be a physical limiter installed.
- Minimal increase in size.
So I retrofitted a v1 into a... v1.5. Note that it's not fully assembled so the bearing slips, but toward the end you get the idea of the overdrive.
Eventually the spring carrier (not shown) will be integrated with the planet carrier, and I need to fix a slight oversight with the annulus..."Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.Comment
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Pretty cool.
You bringing it to Tunaball next year ?
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This is really coming along. Good idea on the overdrive.
How easy is it to "top off" the drum before its empty, or do you have to wait until its empty to reload?
Looking forward to seeing this on a mag and functioning.Comment
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Somebody's apparently chomping at the bit to shoot me on my camera again...Originally posted by going_home View Post
I can top it off any time I want; that was a major feature that I wanted to have. The back cover rotates to access any empty chamber, any time, on a live gun that's still got rounds ready to go. So I can post on someone while reloading chambers with my off-hand. I've also reloaded it on the move; little tricky though.Originally posted by Levi View Post"Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.Comment
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I really NEED one of these.... I would love to show up all of the 'operators' that play in the local mag fed games what it's like to shoot a real paintball gun.
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You're going to put one on an Ion?Originally posted by BigEvil View PostI really NEED one of these.... I would love to show up all of the 'operators' that play in the local mag fed games what it's like to shoot a real paintball gun.
Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.Comment
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