AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Do you need to put o rings in them or anything special? Just want to learn so I don't have any issues.
If the hardline length is right and OD (1/4") is right then you can use just as they are.
If you cut the hardline smidge too short then you can just add extra o-ring to make it seal a little earlier.
Someone had problem with the OD of his hardline, but that can be solved with little thicker o-ring instead of the standard one.
I've bee looking into options on the hardline. Not sure what will happen there though, since different people want different stuffs.
Originally posted by Nobody
Hmmm, interesting. Is the mounting required to have 4 lock down screws, or is that just an option?
Also, i know with the Inception EZ ASA, it was specifically designed to work with both pin and ball style reg bonnets. Have you experienced any problems with this? By looking at the design(following a more traditional, older style that had no problems), i suspect it shouldn't but assurance/confirmation from the designer is always a good thing.
The 4-screw method isn't required but I find it to be easier for mounting since the screws are closer to the sides of the frame. Even if you use straigth allen keys (no ball-rounded ends) it doesn't take much effort to screw them in since they're easily accessible.
Yeah I know the problem you're describing on the pin valves. I've complained about that many times in the past. There isn't a standard for the exact length of a tank bonnet, so the pin valves are positioned all over the place. I've measured LOTS of tank bonnets trying to make parts that will work with everything. Here's a picture that shows a dozen different tank bonnets including a Ninja (both v1 and v2). Going from a Crossfire to a Ninja to a Valken may be enough to cause problems with some ASAs, depending on how they were built. what a headache!
Usually what we do (historically) is make the ASA knob's pin-valve-opener work with the stubbiest of tanks, which functions for just about anything, including the Ninja ball valve. Fortunately they don't need to be depressed very far to reach great flow, no problem there.
I've heard of tanks that can be opened "too far", depending on how its pin valve is designed. I think the old System-X tanks were like that but I may be wrong.
But anyway, the important thing is that even if you need to modify the ASA knob, it's not a big deal since all you need do is carefully file off some length on the pin opener with a hand file. Worst case scenario is too much material is removed, but nummech can sell just the knob for replacement.
As an alternative to the hard line, and for a tighter cleaner look overall... Since you know the fixed distance between the frame port and the valve port, would it be possible to make a male/female setup that didn't require pain in the ass macro?
The M90 was nicer. Proprietary ASA? Who needs that. Just telling you what I see. I do not see anything revolutionary. And it doesnt look like it will be inexpensive either. I am not knocking the design. Ingenious stuff here.
When Andy is all said and done, this might revitalize the entire mag scene. Especially when the first NXL team shoots them and they obliterate their opposition.
As an alternative to the hard line, and for a tighter cleaner look overall... Since you know the fixed distance between the frame port and the valve port, would it be possible to make a male/female setup that didn't require pain in the ass macro?
Comment