5 Reasons to not get an Emag...?

[TheTramp]

OK, I think I can come up with 4 "reasons" not to get an E-Mag (w/ L10).

1) It's too heavy - I'm sorry, I play back so I have my gun up and shooting pretty much all of the time...if you can't hold an E-Mag up (I do have a ULE body) for an entire game you REALLY need to get to a gym.

2) It uses too much gas - Well I can't say too much here it does use gas. I can still shoot balls out of my Imp when the tank guage reads 0 psi. Of course I've never compleatly run out of gas during a tournament game with my E-Mag w/ L10 so does it really matter (900+ balls on a 68 tank).

3) It's not a Timmy/Matrix/whatever - Not too much you can do here either (let's try and move away from the heard...moo! ).

4) It's not as fast. - Well, there may be guns that you can shoot faster but I'd bet that with the 3.2 (and whatever's comming next) you'd be able to shoot a well set-up E-Mag very close. In fact, I'd say that you could shoot it so close to any other gun that any difference would make NO difference in a real game.


In the end, an E-Mag (X-Mag, ect) will compete with the best and give you a chop free day of paintball that you can't argue with!

[Gadget]

Do some of the posters on this thread have the hands of 15 year old girls? I'm on the smallish side myself and don't find the E-Mag grip remotely bulky (unlike the E-blade which is mucho meaty).

As a quick rebuttal to some of the other posters:

- Shootup is a total non-issue, it adds hardly anything to your peak velocity. If you chrono at 290, shootup isn't going to push you past 295.

- Consistancy of +/- 17? Mine gets +/- 3.

- Bumpers - still on the same one since I got my X-Valve in May.

- Speed - not as fast as a WAS'd....erm really? Personally I've not got bionic fingers and can't shoot anywhere near 20bps. WAS'd markers might have a higher theoretical cycle rate, but on the field they only go as fast as your fingers.

- Needs ACE/should be discontinued in favour of X-Mags - I've not chopped ONE ball since I got an X-valve....and that's in 7 months of tournament play and I reguarly outshot my X-board revvy (have just got a Halo-B). I often find ACE more hassle than it's worth. I'm also not a big fan of the X-Mag, I dislike the swappable breech. Had the opportunity to get a X-Mag, went for a ULE E-Mag instead.

Back on-topic, my dislikes about my E-Mag are:

1. Battery - The on/off pin is naff, why not have one of the grip frame buttons act as an on/off? I also dislike having to remove it from the marker to charge, would be much nicer to have a charger which plugs into the grip Angel-stylee.

2. No blade trigger option - I have no problems with the magnetic trigger, works like a charm, but I do prefer flat triggers. Soon to be solved with an LT-3 though :)

3. Mech mode - seemed like a good selling point when I purchased it, but have never used it. I'd rather have a redesigned, sleeker marker without it.

4. ULE body feedneck - a)Red loctite = BAD! b)Would be much nicer to see something similar to the CCM clamping neck as standard.

I would add gas-efficiency, but it's never been an issue for me.

But despite having played with an E-blade, Evo-X raced cocker and Angel 4, I prefer my E-Mag to any of them.

[cledford]

With regard to the battery complaint - we need to work up something to tap the Emags battery potential - which will qwell a lot of the weight complaints. There are SEVERAL home brew methods out there in which you can run your revi, warp+revi, or even your HALO off of the Emag battery and how juice to spare. We need something for the masses that is turn-key.

Eliminating the HALO batteries (or the 3 or 4 9vs if running a warp) is a real nice weight savings that blows the weight of the battery away.

My only issues are:

gas use - can't go as deep into the bottle.
Battery charger - expensive if it breaks

-Calvin

[SpongeBobSquarePants]

I have one reason

No Bounce. Its something you can't get out of a emag. Yes I know it will go auto with the RT valve but its still not Bounce. You can't take your finger up and down the trigger take a bounce and roll 19 bps. Is this cheating? Yes. Is it worth buying a intimidator with WAS for? Hell Yes. Thats all I'm gonna say.

[athomas]

Only problem I dislike is lack of a factory blade trigger.
I also feel left out when all my friends are busy working on their guns before, during, and after a day of play and mine only take a couple of minutes to clean and I'm done.

All other thing about the emag, I love or can tolerate.

I can rip on mine.
The trigger is so light and short. It'll be faster like a WAS gun when the new software is installed.
It is so consistent over the crono. Usually +-2.

[Smoke]

Originally posted by lamby


1) twist lock barrels can cause the gun to not fire if you push the barrel to hard into a bunker, and it is hard to find good kits for them

Not neccessarily. Maybe if your pin is extremely loose, but I've never heard of that happening to anybody I know.

2) the RT function of the gun can get you banned if you play tourneys

Only if it runs away to the point of full auto. And as I stated before: if it does that, tighten the set screw.

3) the stock 16bps software is CRAP (fixed with 3.2)

So what? It's not like you really need to shoot more than 16bps, right? I'm willing to bet that you couldn't even hit that, so why complain.

Granted, while walking the trigger, some Timmy's can hit 25, but that's with insane trigger bounce (which is illegal)

4) the fit and finish of the grips are worse than you get on a $99 shutter

That's opinion, not fact. I find them rather comfortable.

5) HUGH grip frame

Some Timmy's have frames that are almost as big. As stated above, it's all opinion and preference.

6) consistancy.. I can not get my marker better than +/- 17 with the "shoot up issue" my IR3 is +/- 2

My Emag is +/- 3 (4 or 5 on a bad day). If anybody's velocity goes +/- 17, then maybe they should get it looked at.

7) the shootup issue (another possible tourney problem)

I've never had this problem, because I keep my on/off o-ring well oiled, and the spring pack in the back lubed with teflon grease. I've never been docked for "shoot-up".

8) level 10 EATS BUMPERS (can be fixed with glue bahhh)

Then there is something wrong with the way the LX was installed. It's got to be running pretty damn hot (320+) for an excessively long period of time to do that.

9) no where near as fast as a wased (insert marker here)

Again, so what? Complaining about marker speed is so stupid. Remember folks, in paintball, all it takes is 1 hit from a Stingray and you're out.

But if you want to get technical, the 3.2 software makes the Emag just as fast as any other e-marker.

10) the HES trigger is a pain to keep adjusted tight, and still make the gun fire and not bounce (another tourney issue for me)

Erm....what the heck are you doing to that poor mag!!! (j/k!)

Bounce can be fixed by tightening the set screw. As for a loose trigger, it's never happened to me (The reason why I keep saying stuff like "never happened to me" is because if it dosen't happen every single time to every single person, then it's not fact, it's either opinion or a bad experience.)

11) the stock "hump" trigger is the most uncomfortable thing ever. AGD needs a blade like my TL63 **the TL63 ROCKS***

Blade triggers are available on Emags. As for the "hump" trigger, I enjoy it. When I fire with my middle finger, I pull the "hump" part of the trigger (fastest finger at Blackrain Paintball baby! )

12) gas effeciency is not good at all (not an issue at tourneys with a big 4500.. I am a back guy and can shoot 6 pods and hopper before I am tapped on my 68/4500 my IR3 can shoot 8 pods

My efficiency is quite good because I keep my gun finely tuned and I have a good tank. The only thing I will say is that the marker dies at around 300-400 psi.

in conclusion....
for the price, buy a viking

Meh, opinion.

[Prairie]

Why in the hell did you pick apart his post? Youre right..its all opinion..HIS opinion.


Grow up.

[RRfireblade]

My only real grips are....

Lack of a locking feed,

Lack of commercially available aftermarket grips,

Air line running direct to the valve,internal air ports would be nice and neater,

Removing the battery to charge,except at least you can play manual while the batterys in the car charging,

Excess pressure left in tank after gun stops firing.I can play a whole game on that much air with my Rat Imp.

Jay.

[Carbon]

Like I said in the original post, put up 5 or more quirks about the emag you dont like. Were not bashing, defending or justifying anything here. I just want to get a concensus of the most common gripe. What bps one has/can actually and physicaly IRL can attain is irrelevant. Lucky for me i didnt post this on PBN. And no im not writing a guide on how to start flame wars.

Thnx for your time. Word.

[lamby]

Originally posted by automagfreek


quote:
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2) the RT function of the gun can get you banned if you play tourneys
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Only if it runs away to the point of full auto. And as I stated before: if it does that, tighten the set screw.

What set screw are you talking about?? there are many in the marker and not one effects the RT effect of the gun that I know of. Hey if you like you emag fine. I answered a post and stated my problems. as far as speed, I can shoot my IR3 at 19-20 so yea, 16BPS is a limiting factor for my finger and shooting style. And I would love to see your back guys shooting 1bps.... GET REAL or GET LOST!!!!!

[Tunaman]

Originally posted by lamby


What set screw are you talking about?? there are many in the marker and not one effects the RT effect of the gun that I know of. Hey if you like you emag fine. I answered a post and stated my problems. as far as speed, I can shoot my IR3 at 19-20 so yea, 16BPS is a limiting factor for my finger and shooting style. And I would love to see your back guys shooting 1bps.... GET REAL or GET LOST!!!!! [/B]

Actually, the rear field strip screw torque spec can and will effect the on/off pin. Tightening the screw with a wrench has been known to cure whatever ails ya.

[INSANEautomagER]

Well i think the trigger is easy to adjust got mine in elctro down to about a millimeter. The weight is a problem but now the ule stuff came out and the only other problem i have is out shooting hoppers. I've outshot eggys and i can't even play with a revy any more. Yea, 3.2 is a must have.

[~WarpedRT#2~]

adam shannon, yeah, I know what a hex key is, thanks. But like I said, I never had a battery pack attached to mine, thus, I didnt have to worry about it. It was on other peoples that I didn't like it. I'm not going to just adjust other peoples gear. Try messing with my gear without my permission once...

I liked a bicycle grip alot more than the battery pack though, thats another thing I didnt like about normal e-mags, the battery pack didnt seem to feel that great. Other than that, I loved the gun, after all, it was one of two of a kind!

[FutureMagOwner]

Originally posted by Tunaman
Actually, the rear field strip screw torque spec can and will effect the on/off pin. Tightening the screw with a wrench has been known to cure whatever ails ya.

really ill have to try that i usually keep it at finger tight screwing i only use a wrench on the battery pack (that eliminates ANY wobbling even with my hacked up grip frame that you guys have seen)


personally i like the battery pack its easy to hold and aim with because when i shoot i shoulder it hold the battery pack and aim with it and then dont hold the gun at all with my right hand and just walk the trigger or whatever.


the double trigger.... eh i suppose some people dont like it, thats ok i dont like when walking having the friction of my 2 fingers rubbing together like i got on a blade and i can walk ALOT faster by walking the bottem swoop and the middle hump. the only trigger(not trigger pulling itself) was on an ir3 with the flat top part and the hoop back on the bottem it feels really good although i didnt get to accualy shoot it so i dont know if its at all fast i would buy one in an instant for my emag though(if they made them)


the trigger i didnt find difficult to adjust what i did was put little pieces of paper towel for a buffer and i put enough so i could put 2 magnets in the frame and have the top one be flush with the frame its the lightest i can get it without having an unreliable return and the 2nd magnet gives it just a tiny bit more strength that gives it a solid reliability. adjusting the length i find is simple (although when i got mine back tuna already reset it so it wasnt necessary to do it again ) what i think i did was just made the hes activate almost the moment the trigger was pulled then adjusted the length accordingly

its alot easier to setup then it is on my gz which i have to worry about spring strength microswitch being correcly flipped making sure the trigger hits the microswitch when i have it set short as possible then i have to worry about bounce which i was getting until i made a slight adjustment and now its fine but the trigger is alot worse feeling i think then the emag with all the clicky stuff and its alot more of a tactile feel on my emag you dont feel anything and its awesome.

[Smoke]

Originally posted by Prairie
Why in the hell did you pick apart his post? Youre right..its all opinion..HIS opinion.


Grow up.

On the contrary, YOU grow up and stop flame baiting.

If you can't take me being in a conversation with another player, then DON'T POST HERE.

Originally posted by lamby

GET REAL or GET LOST!!!!!

Boy, there sure are alot of mature people on AO nowadays.


The set screw that is on the back of the marker and holds the valve in, THAT set screw. Tom Kaye himself told me that IN PERSON.

As for your IR3, it's good that you have it and can shoot that fast, but just remember, the gun dosen't make the player.