Borg > Viking or vice versa?

[MicroMiniMe]

/paging Steelrat


Your main concern over the two should be the availability of parts if you truly are going to hold on to the marker for years. As Coolhand stated, make sure your getting Hump noids and not Mac. AKA still has a lifetime warantee but since the markers are no longer being made, they are trimming up the warrantee coverage. I don't think they cover the noids any longer and they originally did. There are a good number of service centers for AKA. Gorilla Paintball would be the closest to you. There are also quality airsmiths like Coolhand around that could hold their own for major/minor repairs.

I've never shot a Borg but owned a few Vikings and currently own an Excalibur. They are pretty idiot proof if you don't mess with the LPR and I'm a strong candidate for village idiot when it comes to marker self maintenence.

[rkjunior303]

Add PBK low weight Ram Kit and you will be happy forever.

I'm interested to see what that will do to LPR pressure in conjunction with the lucky valve.

[jenarelJAM]

I've never shot a Borg but owned a few Vikings and currently own an Excalibur. They are pretty idiot proof if you don't mess with the LPR and I'm a strong candidate for village idiot when it comes to marker self maintenence.

Guess what the first thing I did with my viking was?
messed with the LPR
You guessed it... then I had to buy a toolkit to readjust it. That wasn't fun, but now I have a toolkit, so yay!

[ABTOCMEPTb]

In my case I got RAM gauge for my Cyborgs and adjusted LPR in a matter of minutes.

Also I am very pleased with maintanace required for Cyborgs. Tri flow for bolt's orings and daw 33 for RAM. That is all folks!!

[Steelrat]

/paging Steelrat

Wow, sorry I missed this one for so long. I've been out-of-state taking care of, ah, business. Found the guy I was looking for

I've owned countless 04 and 03 vikings and excals, and one 05 borg. While I enjoyed the handiness of the borg, I much prefer the vikings and excals. The borg's frame was terrible, especially for those with large hands like me. Plus, the hose routing through the frame is horrible, and frequently caused issues with the trigger. But it was a fun gun to use.

My vikings have (with the exception of the then-new 04 detent system) been bulletproof. I have never had one fail to work. You can play with the marker, run a few drops of oil through it at the end of the day, throw it in the bag, and it is literally all set to go the next time you play. The viking has superb build quality , consistency, and efficiency. It is also extremely fast once set up, easily as fast as anything else out there. The only thing better than a viking, IMHO, is...

An Excal. I just love that closed bolt feel. The boards take care of the timing unless you mess with the settings too much. They are smooth, and only slightly slower than vikings. I had no problem hitting over 15 bps with my 04 excals.

Like coolhand said, just stay away from the Mac noids if possible. And if you want a light gun, look at the milled vikings, I have seen beautiful milled 04 vikings (FSPs and featherlights) going for $700, which is a great price.

[slade]

Also I am very pleased with maintanace required for Cyborgs. Tri flow for bolt's orings and daw 33 for RAM. That is all folks!!

does tri flow really even do anything? any "smoothness" it creates for the bolt is rather worthless, considering the ram pressures required to achieve the correct velocity at around 200 psi cause quite a bit of pressure on the bolt; its not like a spool valve marker.

whats the consistency of triflow, anyway? im just wondering, because everyone specifies triflow only. it sounds like hype to me, i cant see why it would be better than a comparable lubricant.

[68magOwner]

06borg>viking>05 borg

[ABTOCMEPTb]

does tri flow really even do anything? any "smoothness" it creates for the bolt is rather worthless, considering the ram pressures required to achieve the correct velocity at around 200 psi cause quite a bit of pressure on the bolt; its not like a spool valve marker.

whats the consistency of triflow, anyway? im just wondering, because everyone specifies triflow only. it sounds like hype to me, i cant see why it would be better than a comparable lubricant.

I am just following other people advises. Dow for Ram, triflow for bolt. So far works like a charm. So i guess you can call it hype since manual only mentions dow 33.

[slade]

I am just following other people advises. Dow for Ram, triflow for bolt. So far works like a charm. So i guess you can call it hype since manual only mentions dow 33.

i think i will, thanks.

[Rudz]

qoute

exact qoute from jared at dc..for the fsp mill and a 2 color anno job..


ok the FSP mill is $275
single color with the wing $320 (180 for single color)
The original person had looked up the Greek mythologie and thought it was
cool..( regarding the fsp wing)
I charge $40 to take it apart and rebuild it. Plus return shipping.
Thanks
Jared @ DC
413-883-4328


275
180
40

495...for single color and milling..not bad....and yes i now own a viking..and im obsessed with it..

[MicroMiniMe]

exact qoute from jared at dc..for the fsp mill and a 2 color anno job..


ok the FSP mill is $275
single color with the wing $320 (180 for single color)
The original person had looked up the Greek mythologie and thought it was
cool..( regarding the fsp wing)
I charge $40 to take it apart and rebuild it. Plus return shipping.
Thanks
Jared @ DC
413-883-4328


275
180
40

495...for single color and milling..not bad....and yes i now own a viking..and im obsessed with it..

If you want to take a chance on anodizing taking longer, but still quality job for cheaper ask Jared about using ATMF, ATMF was the anodizer AKA used from the factory. Last year a single color OR simple acid wash was only $125, when I had my Featherlite custom built I was all over the acid wash price. I think fades were like $175. The order also hit a busy season and delay of 3 months at ano. Ask GT how bad the total wait was...
But DC uses FBM now, they are pretty quick and can handle anything and are very professional in buisness as well.

[murphy54]

I belive that the correct answer has to be viceversa

[rkjunior303]

If you want to take a chance on anodizing taking longer, but still quality job for cheaper ask Jared about using ATMF, ATMF was the anodizer AKA used from the factory. Last year a single color OR simple acid wash was only $125, when I had my Featherlite custom built I was all over the acid wash price. I think fades were like $175. The order also hit a busy season and delay of 3 months at ano. Ask GT how bad the total wait was...
But DC uses FBM now, they are pretty quick and can handle anything and are very professional in buisness as well.

Anotech took 5 months for them to Anno my Viking. DC had a TON of problems with them, which is why they made the switch to FBM. They were cheaper and more reliable. My reverse fade (red to clear) cost me $300 through Anotech.

[MicroMiniMe]

Anotech took 5 months for them to Anno my Viking. DC had a TON of problems with them, which is why they made the switch to FBM. They were cheaper and more reliable. My reverse fade (red to clear) cost me $300 through Anotech.

Owch. Sounds like I got through before it got real bad. Price and deadline wise. I remember Spartan's SFSP job took like 8 months and two trips just for ano.

[CoolHand]

Anotech took 5 months for them to Anno my Viking. DC had a TON of problems with them, which is why they made the switch to FBM. They were cheaper and more reliable. My reverse fade (red to clear) cost me $300 through Anotech.

Indeed. They sat on several thousand dollars worth of my stuff for about four months, and then sent it back raw.

All the Lindegarten companies suck for anyone not doing industrial type ano (no surface prep single primary color type II or III) in huge batches.