thanks for the update, keep us informed on your progress
Electro-Pneumatic Kit VIDEO!!!!
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New progress today.
I mowed my lawn today while my brother was on his may home from Boston today.
After showing him the mag I built up,.. he was rather happy to have his R/T back in working order. That was,.. untill I told him to fan the trigger! He wasnt expecting to be able to reach 18bps without pulling the trigger and bouncing it!
Well a B2 with some fresh batteies, a full fill from the scubas,. and an 6 pods out back,... we were ready to let it go!
Fast, smooth, and ropes of paint! No chops! And even when the air was running out,.. the level 10 worked!
So here is the news for real: The ULT with the EPM Kit has a max ROF to 20bps. Can it go faster? Maybe,.. but thats what Im listing as the max for getting no drop off and a nice rope of paint. Pressing it past that causes chuffing and skipped shots.
Im going to test out another valve next week and see if the regular on/off I used before has a better tolerance than 20bps. We all know te video shows it ripping,.. but I want a quality speed and rope match.
~P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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Prgress is being made (as of today)
I have a few new directions Im going in.
First,.... the new boards will be the Scenario Dreams Universal T-Board (UTB). I decided NOT to use the Chaos boards due to the lack of color break beam eye support & a few other key areas of interest.
Second,... I am going to offer conversions for EP as well as "pancake" noids for those that want something simular to a devilmag.
Third,.... if you havent seen it yet, I have designd a new frame that works for both EP & E-Noid setups,... all in one single frame. Here is the link to the thread
Fourth,... I got my new solenoids in for the kit as well. They are going to be a special order item directly through me, and there is a LONG wait for them (6 weeks) comming from Japan.
They are the same noid I used in the video,.... but much shorter in length.
I'll have more details as I start testing my frame out next week. Im going to finish an E-Noid work-up first, then move on to the EP conversion.
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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Originally posted by jaywmustangsweet will u be updating here also or should i just go there? for some reason i cant register
I will keep this post updated on the AO. I wont be updating this one with the frame information though.
The site I linked you to is undergoing a server change,.. but you should be able to make an account.
I'll see if I can find out anything on that issue for you.
But creating a subscription to this thread will work! I'll post here when I have "in-hand" progress to report.
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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Hey P8nt,
Are the new noids chassis grounded like the old one? I remember you posted that the noid wasn't isolated from the frame which was why it didn't fire the second-fourth? time. It's my understanding that japanese made electronics "Not for the US" are made with a positive ground. I know that these "Chassis Hot" electronics must be isolated from ground. Could you shoot me some specs for the noid? Volts, wattage, max cyclic rate/frequency, nominal psi/Mpa, flow rate, m3 threaded?
Thanks
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I think your talking about the issues I had with the MAC 43 I tried from ASP.Originally posted by MournBladeHey P8nt,
Are the new noids chassis grounded like the old one? I remember you posted that the noid wasn't isolated from the frame which was why it didn't fire the second-fourth? time. It's my understanding that japanese made electronics "Not for the US" are made with a positive ground. I know that these "Chassis Hot" electronics must be isolated from ground. Could you shoot me some specs for the noid? Volts, wattage, max cyclic rate/frequency, nominal psi/Mpa, flow rate, m3 threaded?
Thanks
That noid was (some how) grounded to the housing. So it would skip shots and not fire at all depending on the voltage going to it.
That problem no longer exists with my new solenoids.
They are the same thing as a MAC 43 series in every way, but have a custom voltage of 5volts instead of 12volts. Everything else you can get as an option is standard save one thing,... which I can not disclose due to my design of the frame.
The solenoids will be offered by me at a later date.
I'll give some more updates as I get more involved with the converstions & frame.
Keep an eye out for a thread from me involving custom conversions (EP and hyperframe).
I'm working on details involving milling for a complete internal setup (ie: no exterior holes)
Hold on guys,... Im working on it!
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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Will it have a smaller wattage value? The smallest on the datasheet is 1.8W which isn't bad for 12v noid, but at 5v its not exactly sipping the magic smoke. @1.8w the current draw is 360ma thats almost half a 9v battery's rated 750ma and @4w it comes out to 800ma. Can you test one at 100% duty cycle? I'd like to know the results.
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Originally posted by MournBladeWill it have a smaller wattage value? The smallest on the datasheet is 1.8W which isn't bad for 12v noid, but at 5v its not exactly sipping the magic smoke. @1.8w the current draw is 360ma thats almost half a 9v battery's rated 750ma and @4w it comes out to 800ma. Can you test one at 100% duty cycle? I'd like to know the results.
I can test them when I get the the EP conversion in the frame,.. right now Im not sure when that will be.
I did plan on using a capacitor. The Chaos board only puts out 5volts,.. and thats what was running the MAC 43 series 1.8w 12volt noid in the video believe it or not.
I'll get you some tests when I move into that area.
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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It may be easier to create a jig for the assembly outside of the frame. This way the only gas being consumed is whats used by the noid and ram. It should be a lot easier to measure battery life that way.
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Originally posted by MournBladeIt may be easier to create a jig for the assembly outside of the frame. This way the only gas being consumed is whats used by the noid and ram. It should be a lot easier to measure battery life that way.
Maybe,.. but one thing I have found is that the resistance on the noid from the ram does play an effect on cycle time and air useage.
I wanted to use a manifold from the ram to the noid,.. but the factor space with the e-noid possible useare didnt leave the space I needed.
Ive re-done the design more than 17 times. Ask my machinist,... hes had so many emails on the frame its not even funny!
I've been hammering out a wire harness for a Hyperframe install (customer project) all afternoon. Its given me some ideas for setting up the wires in the frame.
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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Ya I'm anal about wiring too. I can't stand sloppy wiring. Can't wait to see how this performs. I may go with your ram/noid combo for my Y-frame.
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Originally posted by MournBladeYa I'm anal about wiring too. I can't stand sloppy wiring. Can't wait to see how this performs. I may go with your ram/noid combo for my Y-frame.
Im working on a deal with Cyberave68 to do ram installs when I do my electronic installs.
Basically,.. when your frame comes back to you,.. its bolt on, turn on,.. mow some faces!
Thats how I want my frame to work,... complete bolt on,.. no BS.
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard
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