** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Lupis Fidelis]

Level 10 runaway

Hi all,
I've been searching the forum and can't find an answer to this question.
I recently picked up some emag lowers and swiched my ULE level 10/xvalve to them.

Now the LX/XV won't stop cycling, I put it back into the ULE and same thing it runs away like a full auto..........

Any ideas how I can fix this?

Thanks.

[athomas]

Sounds like an on-off oring issue rather than a level 10 issue. Two main things cause full auto. The sear is worn and can't catch the bolt, or the on-off allows air into the front chamber before the sear catches the bolt. Since it does it in your ULE mag with a different sear, I suspect the problem lies with the on-off.

[Lupis Fidelis]

runaway......

Well I put new orings in the on/off (3 total) and it's still doing it. When I gas it up it shoots one time without pulling the trigger......

Sounds like an on-off oring issue rather than a level 10 issue. Two main things cause full auto. The sear is worn and can't catch the bolt, or the on-off allows air into the front chamber before the sear catches the bolt. Since it does it in your ULE mag with a different sear, I suspect the problem lies with the on-off.

[athomas]

Well I put new orings in the on/off (3 total) and it's still doing it. When I gas it up it shoots one time without pulling the trigger......

What length of on-off pin are you using? You need a short .712" pin with the emag and a .750" pin with the ULE mag. It could be acombination of two things for you. The sear could be worn on the emag causing full auto. The pin could be too short causing excessive shots on the ULE.

[Lupis Fidelis]

runaway

Yeah, I saw the sticky thread below and realized that I probably don't have the right pin or assembly for that matter. I ordered an emag assembly and pin today.

Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to post here if I have further problems.

What length of on-off pin are you using? You need a short .712" pin with the emag and a .750" pin with the ULE mag. It could be acombination of two things for you. The sear could be worn on the emag causing full auto. The pin could be too short causing excessive shots on the ULE.

[Surestick]

Won't cycle.

I installed a level 10 bolt this w/e in my classic mag & it won't cycle when I pull the trigger.
At first the bolt would move forward about a third to half way across the feed hole in the breech then vent. After maybe ten shots it would simply not move when I pulled the trigger (no venting or anything).
I tried installing the shortest spring I had on the bolt (an old one that is about 2-3 mm shorter than the shortest lvl 10 bolt spring) & still had the same problem.

The marker cycled fine with the lvl 7 bolt & the sear was not touched during the lvl 10 install (I doubt it's the sear since it would probably not have half-cycle at the beginning if it was).
I haven't installed a newer style reg piston yet but have tried screwing the velocity all the way in with not luck.

[athomas]

I installed a level 10 bolt this w/e in my classic mag & it won't cycle when I pull the trigger.
At first the bolt would move forward about a third to half way across the feed hole in the breech then vent. After maybe ten shots it would simply not move when I pulled the trigger (no venting or anything).
I tried installing the shortest spring I had on the bolt (an old one that is about 2-3 mm shorter than the shortest lvl 10 bolt spring) & still had the same problem.

The marker cycled fine with the lvl 7 bolt & the sear was not touched during the lvl 10 install (I doubt it's the sear since it would probably not have half-cycle at the beginning if it was).
I haven't installed a newer style reg piston yet but have tried screwing the velocity all the way in with not luck.

If it doesn't vent out the back when you increase the velocity adjuster all the way in, then you probably don't need a new regulator piston assembly.

Failure to cycle usually indicates a sticking problem somewhere. What type of barrel are you using? I assume it is a twist lock, since you are using a classic mag. Is the barrel properly secured and centered?. The level 10 bolt is a bit larger in diameter that the level 7, so there isn't as much tolerance for parts that don't fit perfectly in the breach area. If the barrel is a bit loose in the body, add a wrap or two of tape around the base of the barrel. This will prevent wobble and will help to keep the barrel centered.

[Surestick]

No barrel while doing the install.
I will try w/the new-style reg piston.

Thanks.

-Adrien

[athomas]

Well, it obviously isn't a barrel problem then.

Check the body washer that separates the back from the front inside the steel body. It may have burrs on the inside or maybe it is distorted somehow. Take a file and gently take some metal off the inside diameter of the washer. It will only take a couple of swipes with the file unless there is sever distortion. If it is bad, then make the hole round and just slightly larger than the tip of the bolt.

If the hole is not the problem, then make sure the body is being pulled down to the rail when you tighten the screw holding the front of the grip frame. Make sure both the grip frame screw and the field strip screws are the proper length to allow the body and valve to be tightened properly.

When in doubt, take the valve apart and clean it. A piece of dirt can cause havoc inside a mag valve.

[Demp1404]

Level 10 won't work

Hi, I just got a level 10 for my RT Pro, I have tried every carrier size, with and without shims, along with the bigger stainless springs, not the red or the smallest one. I am using an RT Pro with a hyper frame and Retro Valve. The problem is that it is leaking like crazy down the barrel, in the fast assembly instructions, it says to turn the velocity up until it shoots, it wont do that, I have the velocity all the way up and continues to leak. Please solve my problem. I rely on you AGD!

[athomas]

Hi, I just got a level 10 for my RT Pro, I have tried every carrier size, with and without shims, along with the bigger stainless springs, not the red or the smallest one. I am using an RT Pro with a hyper frame and Retro Valve. The problem is that it is leaking like crazy down the barrel, in the fast assembly instructions, it says to turn the velocity up until it shoots, it wont do that, I have the velocity all the way up and continues to leak. Please solve my problem. I rely on you AGD!

Check the sear for wear.

Does the hyper frame work with the RT Pro using a level 7 bolt?

[Demp1404]

Check the sear for wear.

Does the hyper frame work with the RT Pro using a level 7 bolt?

Well the thing is that the sear had to be modified to use the hyperframe, well everyone has to do that with a hyper frame. The spring and hanging rod is gone for the electric. I dont have a level 7 to use, but I am using a ans phase two bolt. Thanks for the concern.

[athomas]

Well the thing is that the sear had to be modified to use the hyperframe, well everyone has to do that with a hyper frame. The spring and hanging rod is gone for the electric. I dont have a level 7 to use, but I am using a ans phase two bolt. Thanks for the concern.

The section of the sear tip where it catches the bolt can't be modified. Check it for wear. There never was a spring.

The ANS bolt is a level 7 aftermarket bolt.

One thing to check for is the presence of the rail bushing. If it is missing, it will won't hold the valve in the specific spot where it needs to be for consistent operation.

[Demp1404]

The section of the sear tip where it catches the bolt can't be modified. Check it for wear. There never was a spring.

The ANS bolt is a level 7 aftermarket bolt.

One thing to check for is the presence of the rail bushing. If it is missing, it will won't hold the valve in the specific spot where it needs to be for consistent operation.

Hey Can you send me a picture of the level 7 bolt, I can't seem to find one. What is the rail bushing because I dont see anything missing from the rail. I have only been an owner of an automag for about a month. Thanks for the help

[athomas]

The rail bushing slides into the rail where the field strip screw tightens down the valve. It is located in the rail directly behind the back of the sear.

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=403&categoryID=95

An AGD level 7 bolt looks almost identical the ANS one you have except for the holes in the front.

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=18&categoryID=18