Originally posted by FA22RaptorF22
** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **
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getsomemorrison: Go back to the 2.5 carrier with the original oring. If the bolt is sticking you need a bigger carrier not a smaller one. Replace the bolt spring. If it weakens over time they will cause bolt stick. Bolt springs are consumable items that need to be replaced every once in a while.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Ive tried the my origianl 2.5 carrier but I did try a longer bolt spring and now it doesnt shoot at all so I tried stretching the one I had in it(short one) out a little bit and then It would just make little puffs like when it bounces of a ball then I tried tapping on the regulator while I was adjusting through the velocity and it started blowin down the barral again, I dont know what to do now Im out of air agian have to wait to get more air. You would think as much trouble as Im have a person would just sell the thing but I dont want to part with my mag.Originally posted by athomasgetsomemorrison: Go back to the 2.5 carrier with the original oring. If the bolt is sticking you need a bigger carrier not a smaller one. Replace the bolt spring. If it weakens over time they will cause bolt stick. Bolt springs are consumable items that need to be replaced every once in a while.
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You need to have the velocity adjuster turned in quite a bit more when you use a longer bolt spring. If you can never get it to shoot, or if it only shoots at a velocity that is much too high, then maybe you should cut a coil off the long spring. This would work until you get a new proper length bolt spring. The original middle bolt springs were cut springs when the level 10 first came out. Just make sure the cut end faces towards the bolt.Originally posted by getsomemorrisonIve tried the my origianl 2.5 carrier but I did try a longer bolt spring and now it doesnt shoot at all so I tried stretching the one I had in it(short one) out a little bit and then It would just make little puffs like when it bounces of a ball then I tried tapping on the regulator while I was adjusting through the velocity and it started blowin down the barral again, I dont know what to do now Im out of air agian have to wait to get more air. You would think as much trouble as Im have a person would just sell the thing but I dont want to part with my mag.
If you are using the original bolt spring, even stretched it won't work properly if it is worn out.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Originally posted by athomaspeadison: You have a pre-level 10 valve with the low pressure regulator piston assembly. You will need a newer high pressure regulator piston assembly to work properly with the level 10 bolt. You can reduce the problem until a new assembly arrives by using a shorter bolt spring.
The constant leaking out the front, even though you can still shoot the gun, means you probably have too many shims in the powertube. Remove all shims when setting the level 10 bolt system up. If it still leaks, then use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube carrier oring.
Is this what you suggested?
Airgun Designs Automag High Pressure Piston from www.actionvillage.com
Apparel at ActionVillage.com. Clothing, shoes, t-shirts, sweatshirts, pants, shorts, hats, watches and more at ActionVillage.com. Largest selection of skateboard products online.
Or this one because the images do not look the same:
Last edited by peadison; 01-13-2007, 08:27 PM.
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It should be the right one. Technically, they are all "high pressure" piston assemblies. We just refer to the older ones as low pressure because they are lower than the newest ones.Originally posted by peadisonIs this what you suggested?
Airgun Designs Automag High Pressure Piston from www.actionvillage.com
Apparel at ActionVillage.com. Clothing, shoes, t-shirts, sweatshirts, pants, shorts, hats, watches and more at ActionVillage.com. Largest selection of skateboard products online.
Or this one because the images do not look the same:
http://www.pbn5.com/paintball/paintball.mvc?p=1000659
Changing over to a level 10 bolt required more mags to need a new assembly than switching over to HPA. Essentially, HPA requires the mag to operate at the same pressure as CO2. The level 10 however, required a much higher chamber pressure and thus required a new assembly on a lot of mags.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Through out the course of tring to get my gun to work I have adjusted the velocity up all the way even when I tried the longer spring. I am to the point that Im going to send it to airgun to be looked at. I dont know what else to do.Originally posted by athomasYou need to have the velocity adjuster turned in quite a bit more when you use a longer bolt spring. If you can never get it to shoot, or if it only shoots at a velocity that is much too high, then maybe you should cut a coil off the long spring. This would work until you get a new proper length bolt spring. The original middle bolt springs were cut springs when the level 10 first came out. Just make sure the cut end faces towards the bolt.
If you are using the original bolt spring, even stretched it won't work properly if it is worn out.
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Brenden (Desega) and I worked on his marker today and I think I found the problem. He was missing the oring that sits on top of the on/off. I put a ring in where it should go, but I think it might be the wrong size. The gun now fires in mech mode, but not e-mode. I told him to order some quad o-rings, will that fix his problem?
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This is no longer a level 10 issue. Put this information under its own heading here in the tech section. Give all details of the setup and operation.Originally posted by bryceedenBrenden (Desega) and I worked on his marker today and I think I found the problem. He was missing the oring that sits on top of the on/off. I put a ring in where it should go, but I think it might be the wrong size. The gun now fires in mech mode, but not e-mode. I told him to order some quad o-rings, will that fix his problem?
Check the operation of the eframe to make sure the trigger is activating the HES. You don't need to have the gun aired up for this. Remove the valve and hold your finger down on the hole where the sear contacts the on-off pin. You can feel the movement when you fire and can return the sear with your finger.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Hi, so heres my problem... I have been chopping paint like crazy with this bolt. I have the perfect sized carrier and everything, but it still chops paint. One thing i did notice when installing the bolt was that it reseted itself without me adding shims, could this be the problem? I can hear the bolt stopping when a ball gets pinched, but after the second or third ball it will chop it. help me out here please.
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Tour setup is working properly if it resets when it stops on a ball or object in the breach. Most people, including myself, never use shims in their setup.Originally posted by automagman2000Hi, so heres my problem... I have been chopping paint like crazy with this bolt. I have the perfect sized carrier and everything, but it still chops paint. One thing i did notice when installing the bolt was that it reseted itself without me adding shims, could this be the problem? I can hear the bolt stopping when a ball gets pinched, but after the second or third ball it will chop it. help me out here please.
Chopping could be caused by a weak detent or nubbin which could cause double feeds. Are you sure you are chopping and not getting barrel breaks. Barrel breaks are common if you use brittle paint that is too small for the bore you are using.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Originally posted by athomasTour setup is working properly if it resets when it stops on a ball or object in the breach. Most people, including myself, never use shims in their setup.
Chopping could be caused by a weak detent or nubbin which could cause double feeds. Are you sure you are chopping and not getting barrel breaks. Barrel breaks are common if you use brittle paint that is too small for the bore you are using.
Yeah im pretty sure its the bolt. could the detent be the reason the bolt chops? cause i cant shoot it fast without choppin paint
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Yes, the detent could be your problem.Originally posted by automagman2000Yeah im pretty sure its the bolt. could the detent be the reason the bolt chops? cause i cant shoot it fast without choppin paintExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Bolt Stick.
I've had my Tac-One for a year and a half. Its great outdoors where I can shoot it at 290 FPS, but indoors, it sucks.
I get bolt stick after bolt stick. Now it won't even fire at higher levels.
I want to be able to fire it regularly at 230 FPS to 280 FPS without changing springs or anything like that.
Any ideas guys? I would seriously appreciate it. If I can't fix it, I'm just going to sell it and get a Tippmann.
Thanks,
Andrew
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Also it leaks an insane amount of air. HELP!

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