** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[secretweaponevan]

No, sorry. It vents as if it were anti-chopping. It isn't leaking. if I used a 3.0 or under carrier. 3.5 it does leak out the front.

Either you aren't using lube, or your bolt spring is too strong for the velocity you are currently set at.
You need to find a way to turn up your velocity or use a weaker bolt spring.
Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak (3.0 sounds like your money shot).

Air, no Reg, High pressure. I can try posting a video if that helps.

This would always be helpful.

[athomas]

No, sorry. It vents as if it were anti-chopping. It isn't leaking. if I used a 3.0 or under carrier. 3.5 it does leak out the front.

3.0 does sound like your carrier. You need a higher velocity(pressure) setting to make the bolt cycle. Like secretweaponevan mentioned, you need to either increase your velocity setting using what you have now or reduce the spring tension (use a lighter spring).

[sup909]

3.0 does sound like your carrier. You need a higher velocity(pressure) setting to make the bolt cycle. Like secretweaponevan mentioned, you need to either increase your velocity setting using what you have now or reduce the spring tension (use a lighter spring).

The entire thing is oiled, and I am using the shortest spring in the level 10 kit. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I am about one full turn from having the velocity screw all the way in. Another 1/4 turn up and the bolt leaks out the back.

[athomas]

The entire thing is oiled, and I am using the shortest spring in the level 10 kit. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I am about one full turn from having the velocity screw all the way in. Another 1/4 turn up and the bolt leaks out the back.

Will it cycle without a barrel installed? List your exact configuration? Rail type, body type, grip frame, barrel, etc.

[sup909]

Will it cycle without a barrel installed? List your exact configuration? Rail type, body type, grip frame, barrel, etc.

It is the "stock" everything as far as I know. It cycles with or without the barrel, but vents as if it is anti-chopping. The bolt does reset after each trigger pull. I am using Air 68/3000, full tank. Everything is installed correctly, I have checked a million times. It works fine with the Level 7.

I think I will out a video up on youtube tomorrow and you can see the marker and the problem in action.

[phatty123]

I just want to chime in a say i feel for you. I have never got mine to work right.

-barry

[secretweaponevan]

It is the "stock" everything as far as I know. It cycles with or without the barrel, but vents as if it is anti-chopping. The bolt does reset after each trigger pull. I am using Air 68/3000, full tank. Everything is installed correctly, I have checked a million times. It works fine with the Level 7.

I think I will out a video up on youtube tomorrow and you can see the marker and the problem in action.

athomas, does this sound like a backed-out piston relief valve screw setting? I'm thinking that this would keep the operating pressure from reaching the proper levels. (I don't know if the newer pistons have the same internals as the originals.)

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sup909, are you using the stock Rear Velocity Adjuster? Is your spring pack in correctly? (I don't know what, if any, symptoms would occur from having it in backwards.
The problem is almost definitely that the marker is not getting up to a high enough operating pressure. Either that or a mutant bolt spring which is very highly unlikely. You could always take an old bolt spring and start cutting it down a quarter coil at a time until you get the marker to cycle (put the cut end on the bolt first so the good end is sticking out) and then check the velocity.

At least when you get her up and running you will know the level 10 inside and out!

[sup909]

athomas, does this sound like a backed-out piston relief valve screw setting? I'm thinking that this would keep the operating pressure from reaching the proper levels. (I don't know if the newer pistons have the same internals as the originals.)

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sup909, are you using the stock Rear Velocity Adjuster? Is your spring pack in correctly? (I don't know what, if any, symptoms would occur from having it in backwards.
The problem is almost definitely that the marker is not getting up to a high enough operating pressure. Either that or a mutant bolt spring which is very highly unlikely. You could always take an old bolt spring and start cutting it down a quarter coil at a time until you get the marker to cycle (put the cut end on the bolt first so the good end is sticking out) and then check the velocity.

At least when you get her up and running you will know the level 10 inside and out!

Well I can only imagine that the spring has been rotated both ways simply due to the amount of times I have taken it in and out. The velocity screw adjuster is stock as far as I know. It requires an allen wrench. I think I will swap out an ASA and hoses from one of my other markers though now that you mentioned the pressure. I don't imagine that, that would be it, but may be there is a kink internally in the hose that I cannot see from the outside. Who knows, it is worth a try at this point.

[secretweaponevan]

Well I can only imagine that the spring has been rotated both ways simply due to the amount of times I have taken it in and out. The velocity screw adjuster is stock as far as I know. It requires an allen wrench. I think I will swap out an ASA and hoses from one of my other markers though now that you mentioned the pressure. I don't imagine that, that would be it, but may be there is a kink internally in the hose that I cannot see from the outside. Who knows, it is worth a try at this point.

A kink wouldn't matter. It would only affect flow, not pressure. Wait for athomas to get back to you about the reg piston screw. He knows way more than I do.

[athomas]

athomas, does this sound like a backed-out piston relief valve screw setting? I'm thinking that this would keep the operating pressure from reaching the proper levels. (I don't know if the newer pistons have the same internals as the originals.)

I don't think there is meant to be any user adjustable parts on the regulator piston assembly, unless they have changed them. It does sound very much like a faulty piston assembly though. Just because it isn't meant to be adjusted doesn't mean we can't adjust it though.


sup909: You can make an adjustment to your reg piston assembly. Try it on the old one you took out first. Take the oring off. Heat the assembly to break the loctite bond. Then turn the hex screw clockwise. This will increase the overpressure setting and should allow you to operate the valve at a higher pressure than it will right now. You will probably have to hold the assembly in a vise. Be careful not to crush it out of round.

[secretweaponevan]

sup909: You can make an adjustment to your reg piston assembly. Try it on the old one you took out first. Take the oring off. Heat the assembly to break the loctite bond. Then turn the hex screw clockwise. This will increase the overpressure setting and should allow you to operate the valve at a higher pressure than it will right now. You will probably have to hold the assembly in a vise. Be careful not to crush it out of round.

sup909: 3rd picture from the bottom here shows how to grip the piston in a vise with a towel.

http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/regulators/flatline/index.shtml

[athomas]

Heat the assembly to break the loctite bond. Then turn the hex screw clockwise. This will increase the overpressure setting and should allow you to operate the valve at a higher pressure than it will right now. You will probably have to hold the assembly in a vise. Be careful not to crush it out of round.

I forgot to mention, don't use too much heat. It will damage the oring inside. Boiling water is probably enough. Heck, you may even be able to do it without heat, but it will definately be easier with it.

[sup909]

I forgot to mention, don't use too much heat. It will damage the oring inside. Boiling water is probably enough. Heck, you may even be able to do it without heat, but it will definately be easier with it.

Hmm, we are beginning to dive into the realm of hacking that I am not 100% I am comfortable with. There is also the unfortunate fact that I live in an apartment and do not have access to work tools of that sort.

[athomas]

Hmm, we are beginning to dive into the realm of hacking that I am not 100% I am comfortable with. There is also the unfortunate fact that I live in an apartment and do not have access to work tools of that sort.

Borrow a set of vise grips and an allen key.

[commando7]

I have an RT ULE mag w/ ULT. I've been using the gold spring because the medium spring does not want to work w/ any carrier/shim setup I put in.

Anyway, gold spring, 1 shim, and 1.5 carrier (largest that does not leak) has been working the best, but is a little rough on paint. It has been chopping. I figured since the middle spring won't even work, I can try cutting down the longest spring. I cut it down so it is a little bit longer than the short and shorter than the middle spring to try to get it a little softer on paint. I shot with this spring and the same shim/carrier combo tonight and I chopped a ball. So I tried going down a carrier size because I read that you can really fine tune by going down a carrier while risking bolt stick (info from the level 10 disk). Now, my cut spring, 1 shim, 1.0 carrier is soft enough on paint, but I what will I risk by using a smaller carrier? I let it rest for about 30 minutes and when I shot again it didn't stick at all and I haven't experienced any bolt stick, but I want to check if this is my only option and if there's a problem with it. I feel like I should be able to get the middle spring in there somehow because right now when I do, every other shot is good, but the inbetween shots don't reset fully and are just little half attempts at a shot. Help would be greatly appreciated.