Originally posted by indecisive
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You are experiencing bolt stick. You need to use the next larger carrier size. Always use the same small white oring when changing carriers. Remove the level 10 shims when testing carrier size. You don't want to induce a shim leak which may seem like a carrier leak.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts. -
Level 10 bolt foamie
The center tip of my bolt blew out mid game I guess... Are they replaceable like the old ANS foamie bolts? or am I buying a new complete Level 10 kit?Comment
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They are replaceable and use the same foamy as the old level 7 bolts. If you don't get it replaced right away, don't worry. The bolt will function fine without it.Originally posted by CAT/JExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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athomas
Thanks a bunch...now I gotta find some foamies...And to be honest, with the foamie gone, it was allowing the balls to roll back(into the bolt face somewhat), causing constant feeding issues.Comment
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That roll back is the same as every other bolt on the market that has the center drilled out. If you are having feed issues, it could be a problem elsewhere. If the balls roll back, it just means the next ball sits a bit lower into the breach. The bolt tip will make slight contact, but the starting velocity and impact force of the level 10 bolt won't hurt it. If you are getting "chuffs", then it is probably a level ten setup issue.Originally posted by CAT/JExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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...ya I'm also considering
a loader malfunction. My Halo seemed to be giving an awful lot of 'jamming' warnings via the LED that was lit like a christmas tree. I'm attributing it to the loss of the foamie mostly, however...I was having to push the balls with my finger thru the power feed port.Comment
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No, the loss of foamy won't cause that problem. The balls still feed properly without the foamy. Since you have a level 7 powerfeed body, it is possible that you have one of the early non-parabolic feed plugs. Some of those caused feed issues. A Halo may put too much pressure on the flat "nonparabolic" section of the plug causing the balls to jam in the corner. Airgun Designs replaced all those plugs years ago but there are quite few older guns out there with that older style plug, mine included, although I had never used a halo on that body so I never had any issues.Originally posted by CAT/JExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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So Last week i was having issues with a lvl 7 bolt chuffing at high rates of fire in Elec mode. It stoped after puting about a case of paint thru it. Was waiting for everything to be in perfect working order before I put in the lvl 10 bolt on the Emag. I replaced every O-ring and replaced the ON/off and the Regulator Valve Pin Assembly. So thats a little history on what I have done trying to fix that issue. But now its working great.
So I installed the lvl 10 according to the detailed instructions on this website. In mech mode it fires fine. No leaking no chuffing. When I put in a something infront of the bolt it fires and resets fine. But in Elec mode at high rates of fires its pretty much chuff almost every shot if not every other shot. O and I turned the velocity all the way up. And it never leaked out the back like it said it would. I tried both of the longer springs and the gun would not cycle. But with my original short spring and the short spring with the lvl 10 bolt it would cycle both with the same issue with chuffing.So any Ideas?Last edited by tarthal; 11-22-2008, 10:23 PM.Comment
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You mentioned replacing the on-off. Did you replace the pin? If so, did you install the correct 0.712" pin? The other causes of chuffing at high rates of fire is the bottle regulator's inability to keep up.Originally posted by tarthalExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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ye replaced the on/off and used the pin that came with it. When I ordered it from Tuna. Also my bottle worked with a lvl 7 bolt.Comment
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If it was a standard pin, then that's your problem. Use the original one from the emag.Originally posted by tarthalExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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dont know why cause it worked fine with a lvl 7 bolt. Pin length remained the same between the lvl 10 and lvl 7 bolt. Only differences is the gun gives me issues while the lvl 10 bolt.Comment
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Your problem could be an accumulation of problems. Make sure the pin is the short emag pin. You may also be getting minor bolt stick. Everything is probably working ok, except it is slowed down. A tiny bit of bolt stick would shorten the amount of time the valve has to recharge. Combine that with a longer on-off pin and you shorten the time even more. Under normal firing conditions it wouldn't be notice, but under rapid bursts the valve would starve for air.Originally posted by tarthal
Check your pin length. It is probably ok if you ordered an emag pin with your assembly. I'd retune your level 10 setup and try to use the next larger carrier. Remove all shims when testing to make sure you don't get any leaking that is shim related rather than carrier related.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Leaking no matter what!
I have a classic automag with a level 10 bolt that leaks no matter what I do. Leak stops when trigger is held down. I've changed all o-rings, used plenty of lube, removed all shims, and installed the smallest carrier with little effect. The leak persists, ranging from moderate to floodgate. What the hell is wrong with this thing?
The level 10 carriers (all of them) fit very tightly into the power tube and must be pushed down to the bottom with considerable force (even when soaking in lube), as if it's hanging up on the powertube's threading. However, the carrier o-rings show no visible signs of damage when removed, but who knows.
Any tips?Comment
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A fresh LVL 10 carrier o-ring will leak until broken in.Originally posted by ghost flanker
Do this:
Remove all LVL 10 shims.
Pick 1 carrier o-ring and stick with it.
Use oil.
Use #2 carrier (2 lines, no dots, or largest one you have).
Shoot 1000 shots to break in o-ring.
Move broken-in o-ring to largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Use red spring for 285 fps. Use longer spring for higher velocity or to be more gentle (fragile paint), shorter spring for lower velocity or to be less gentle (thicker shell).
If bolt sticks after encountering a jam, add a shim.
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