** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Tweety]

What's your setup? What type of mag are you using?

Most likely it is bolt stick. Make sure you turned the velocity up after a level 10 installation. The valve uses a higher chamber pressure to operate the level 10 bolt at the same velocitiy as before. If it still sticks, then you are using a carrier size that is too small making the carrier oring too tight on the bolt stem.

it is a e-mag i was useing a pure energy tank the level 10 i have a med spring on it and the carrier was only a little tight should the carrier. lean more to the loose side
it makes a little poping sound when when i move the bolt is that a sighn

would the larger chamber pessure efect the air in the tank

[athomas]

it is a e-mag i was useing a pure energy tank the level 10 i have a med spring on it and the carrier was only a little tight should the carrier. lean more to the loose side
it makes a little poping sound when when i move the bolt is that a sighn

would the larger chamber pessure efect the air in the tank

Your setup should be fine. I use a PE tank on my emag. It works great.

Like I mentioned before, turn up the velocity setting first. The carrier should be as loose as you can get it without leaking (ie; use the largest carrier that doesn't leak). Any tightness on the bolt stem will cause bolt stick. Always test for leaks without any shims installed.

[Tweety]

Your setup should be fine. I use a PE tank on my emag. It works great.

Like I mentioned before, turn up the velocity setting first. The carrier should be as loose as you can get it without leaking (ie; use the largest carrier that doesn't leak). Any tightness on the bolt stem will cause bolt stick. Always test for leaks without any shims installed.

how can you test for leaks other than the putting it all togather

i was mess around with the velocity. i think i made it worse

how do you ajust the velocity i never realy had too with the lvl7 bolt

[athomas]

how can you test for leaks other than the putting it all togather

You can't. You use an educated guess based on feel for your first attempt at a carrier size. It should take almost no force to push the carrier-oring combination onto the bolt stem. With the bolt in the vertical position and the carrier installed onto the stem, pick the bolt up by holding the carrier. Any slight bump should cause the bolt to slide out of the carrier. If it takes more than a slight bump, then it is too tight. If it can't be picked up at all, then it is too loose. That should be a good first test. If you find that it leaks when installed, use the next smaller size. If it doesn't leak, use the next larger size. Always use the size smaller than the one that leaks. Always use the same white oring when testing carrier sizes.

[crazyjoe12]

what if i have tested all the carriers and im still getting a leak? i have carrier size #0 in and it fits right but im still getting the leak, i also have 2 shims. do i add more shims? try a harder spring?

[secretweaponevan]

what if i have tested all the carriers and im still getting a leak? i have carrier size #0 in and it fits right but im still getting the leak, i also have 2 shims. do i add more shims? try a harder spring?

The shims might be causing the leak. Start with no shims and the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Only add a shim if the bolt fails to reset after a jam.

[athomas]

what if i have tested all the carriers and im still getting a leak? i have carrier size #0 in and it fits right but im still getting the leak, i also have 2 shims. do i add more shims? try a harder spring?

As mentioned above, your leak is most likely caused by too many shims. Too many shims will push the carrier and oring so that the bolt stem vent hole is exposed and it will continually leak. Remove your shims and recalibrate your level 10 carrier setup. Always remove the shims when checking carrier sizes to prevent this type of leak from happening.

[crazyjoe12]

ok so im still getting a leak down the barrel. i tried removing all the shims and the gun fires but still leaks, i then added shims one at a time up to three and still had leaking. i tryed changing to the red spring but it is too hard and causes the gun not to recock after firing. i have the smallest size carrier in too. not only am i getting the leak but every few shots the gun will uncock and i have to push on the bolt to get it going again. so what is it i need to try doing? im very lost all help is needed and apreciated

[Posey]

I just purchased and installed a level 10 bolt on my Automag classic. When I gas it up, there is resistance behind the trigger but the marker will not fire until I turn up the pressure. About an 1/8th of a turn past where the marker will fire, the valve begins to leak out the back. I have tried several carriers and two and no shims. Any ideas?

[athomas]

ok so im still getting a leak down the barrel. i tried removing all the shims and the gun fires but still leaks, i then added shims one at a time up to three and still had leaking. i tryed changing to the red spring but it is too hard and causes the gun not to recock after firing. i have the smallest size carrier in too. not only am i getting the leak but every few shots the gun will uncock and i have to push on the bolt to get it going again. so what is it i need to try doing? im very lost all help is needed and apreciated

Adding more shims will never make a leak go away and will usually make the leak worst. Adding a stiffer spring (ie; red spring) requires turning the velocity setting up to get the operating velocity back up to where it was. It won't fire if you don't. If you are getting bolt stick (gun won't re-cock after a shot), you are using a carrier size that is too tight. It is quite possible you have a defective white powertube oring. Change it. Clean your powertube to make sure there is no debris that might cause leaking. Retune your setup once you install the new oring. Use the largest carrier size that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims when testing the carrier size. Always use the same white oring when changing carriers.

Check your sear for wear. A worn sear will allow the bolt to sit too far forward and cause leaking. A missing rail bushing could cause problems too.

[athomas]

I just purchased and installed a level 10 bolt on my Automag classic. When I gas it up, there is resistance behind the trigger but the marker will not fire until I turn up the pressure. About an 1/8th of a turn past where the marker will fire, the valve begins to leak out the back. I have tried several carriers and two and no shims. Any ideas?

Your regulator piston assembly is an older low pressure version. The higher pressure requirements of the level 10 bolt sometimes exceed the safety release pressure of the regulator piston assembly in the older units. You might get away with using the older unit if you make your system more efficient. Use the short gold spring. Use an 11" unported barrel or one that has minimal or very small porting. Keep your velocity down around 280fps or lower. This may get you by until you can get a new piston assembly.

[Posey]

So if I order a new regulator piston assembly from the AGD website I should be fine? Should I also replace the spring pack?

[athomas]

So if I order a new regulator piston assembly from the AGD website I should be fine? Should I also replace the spring pack?

Spring pack will be fine. You only need the regulator piston assembly.

[crazyjoe12]

if the washer that goes behind the carrier is chipped on the inside could that cause leaking?

[athomas]

if the washer that goes behind the carrier is chipped on the inside could that cause leaking?

It shouldn't. The washer is only a spacer to prevent the bolt from pushng the carrer oring back into the chamber when there is no air pressure.