BlackVCG's ULT Thread

[Scott Hudnall]

I didn't want to read all 250 posts to find it so.
What is the recharge rate of a classic?

I've read several places that the classic valve/A.I.R. valve can cycle/recharge at 16 cps.

[ben-afficial]

hey scott....what is the recharge rate of a 68automags valve... if you know please let me know.

[Scott Hudnall]

uhm.....it's the same.

"classic" and "A.I.R." and "68Automag" valve.....they are all the same, but with different laser engraving on it. If you have an all stainless steel valve, the it's the same thing (unless it says "RT" or "ReTro" or "Emag" on it.....).

I personally have a A.I.R. valve on my old 'mag....it rocks.....serial # in the 5000's range....

[ben-afficial]

thanks scott...sorry for the stupid question...I actually found that out about an hour ago

[aaeryan]

#1 when i shoot my xvalve no ult it is very reactive and the lvl10 is fine but under rapid fire about after 30 shots it shoots down and and balls jam my barrel and break
#2 when the ult is in my xvalve in any rapid fire just 2 or three shots it shoots down short strokes and all that stuff still lvl10 is fine, if shoot a shot every 3 seconds it is fine
i tried adding shims and removing shims but cant get it working is it my input pressure? i have an aci bulldog 2 on my tank i think input is 750 HELP!!!

[jewie27]

I got my on/off sent to me all set up ready to go, I think that's how they're coming now. I just popped that badboy in my gun and it was pretty good, threw another shim on and it was better, then I ran out of air cause I was at 900psi to start and spent 200psi because I kept shooting once and getting the bolt sticking forward and venting. Too many Lvl 10 shims had an effect with this, I guess because of less push resetting the sear to start, I don't know. Anyone else had that issue? The pin comes bonded with the pin support and in the ULE bottom too, not sure how AGD connected them (loctite?) haven't tried pulling it out yet. Have any of you who got it after the beta test fiddled with this?

Still can't walk it, and I am definitely starting to consider the idea again of drilling a hole a little higher up on the sear to angle the pin, cutting a little stroke distance off but increasing the reactivity. The pull is so light but without a little shorter pull it's definitely not walkable. Anyone know how AGD gets their sears made? Do they do them inhouse or do they outsource for them? I'd love it if I could pay AGD a little more and have them punch the hole a little higher on a sear before they coat it and set the trigger rod just right for the new angle, keeping it within AGD standards. I'd be happy to pay a little more for it and let them know how it goes if they set it up so I don't have to modify it and risk hurting my baby (All-AGD ULE mag). Beta-test it basically. Can this custom work be done? And before this becomes suitable for another forum....

How many shims is everyone with a ULE body/XValve/Stock AGD rail/Intelliframe setup using? I'm at 3, one above what they send it to you with. Anyone finding the need to use Lvl 10 shims with the on/offs they're sending now?

Frankart, I have not fiddled with input pressure because I use a Crossfire set nitro tank, but the reactivity isn't bad, I haven't shot much but it comes back pretty fast.

sorry i'm just a little late on this...... LOL

Luke here on AO does the ULT sear mod.

[johnson88]

ive been trying to find an emag but its not orking out to well and i was thingin about getting the rt ule im just wondering wat the trigger pull will feel like as in comparsion to something and what a stock one would feel like compared to something

thanks.

[ultralight]

Chuff!

setup:

CF ULE body
AM/MM Classic rail
X valve
Lv 10
ULT
Intelliframe
68/3000 Crossfire HPO

i can not fire this trigger rapidly.
please help!
when i try to walk or fan the trigger it chuffs every once in a while.
i know that this is because the sear isn't resetting fully between trigger pulls.
when firing with paint, the chuff puts the ball halfway down the barrel and the next successfull shot makes soup.
what can i do to fix this problem?

thanks.

[onedude36]

Ok, Ive been fiddling with my leaking x valved and ult, and it goes full auto. I have four shims in the ult and none in the lvl 10(havent gotten around to tuning it, I'm trying to fix the leaks right now). I am using a minimag rail and stock frame for testing. Once I get it going its going to have a nice hyperframe

Any way, my mag goes full auto. I would think I would need more push from the on/off to reset the bolt. Would more or less shims do that. I have lubed the crap out of everything.

[jewie27]

My X-Valve worked fine until I put in ULT. I have 5 shims in and it shoots great, then the bolt sticks... When I push the bolt back, it resets. I fire a few more shots, then it sticks.... The only lube I have is Autolube. Where can I get a hold of some KC Troublefree oil? I'm still getting a few shortstrokes too. I'm even using two trigger stops. Why can't ULT shoot that fast??? It seems that the stock on/off is faster...

[XSoberOne]

Bad JooJoo?

My X-Valve worked fine until I put in ULT. I have 5 shims in and it shoots great, then the bolt sticks... When I push the bolt back, it resets. I fire a few more shots, then it sticks.... The only lube I have is Autolube. Where can I get a hold of some KC Troublefree oil? I'm still getting a few shortstrokes too. I'm even using two trigger stops. Why can't ULT shoot that fast??? It seems that the stock on/off is faster...

I was having the EXACT same problem and I had the same amount of shims on the on/off assembly as you do until I added one more and it shoots in two round burst full auto, and one full pull of the trigger has it back in single shot. What I want to know is why is it that on the instructions does it tell you to take a shim OUT of it starts going full auto? Isn't that a GOOD thing?? I mean, I put a full hopper through it and no sticks, no hangups or breaks. Just beautiful wonderful, RELIABLE fast rat of fire. All I want to know is would this cause undue wear and tear on the pin??

[jewie27]

I shot some paint with it today and it seemed to be a lot better. It doesn't stick as much or at all with paint. Why does it stick when I dry fire?

[XSoberOne]

maybe becuse there's a little bit of backpressure created by an actual ball being in the breech that helps the marker re-cock itself where-as without the ball it just let's all the air go. Even thought that SHOULDN'T be the case, it's a guess. If you still have the original springs that came with your marker, try cutting down the largest spring to like 1/2 - 1 coil longer than the medium spring and see if that takes care of all the problems. That was going to be my next path of troubleshooting. But did you add the extra shim? I'm running 6 now, instead of five. I won't go anymore than that

[ultralight]

what problems are most likely to occur if the on/off pin is bent?

i may have bent my pin, barely perceptible but i know that in a mag tolerances run tight.

the bolt is not resetting fully, it gets stuck about 1-2mm before it fully resets, could a bent pin be the cause?

also, is gold cup oil better than autolube for the Xvalve?

please help quick, i have a game on sunday!

thanks in advance.

[ta2maki]

Anybody know how critical the shape of the tip of the on/off pin has to be when filing it down?