I don't under stand the spring part all that well, I'm sorry. How did these guns work? Did they just rip? What about a ram thats small enough to fit in front of the sear. It could then push on the sear in a similar position as the trigger rod does?
pneumatic frame
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Does it make a difference of what kind (make, model, etc.) of LPR, 3-way, and ram I use for this mod?Comment
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I was thinking of doing this with a palmer quick switch and a clippard single acting ram. I would have the 3 way directly behind the trigger, it would actuate the ram, the ram would strike the sear in the same manner as the trigger rod. The ram has a total lenght or .87" I'm not sure I can get it to fit infront of the sear, does anyone know how large that space is? Also what woul i use for a trigger return, and how would I implement it?Comment
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If I'm not mistaken, the trigger should return to firing position as soon as you take the pressure off of it (as the three way valve resets when the trigger is released). I don't know if this is correct or not, so some verification would be much appreciated.Comment
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So your saying the 3 way will push it back to the ready position?Comment
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If not the 3 way then the pressure that usually resets the trigger should work, at least on a reactive valve with no ULT. Also, the ram doesn't need to hit the sear at the same place the trigger does, it could pull down on it from behind the sear.
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"Ah yes, I have one of the 32*rebels that I always take to big scenario games. It keeps the truck from rolling if I have to park on a hill." - automikeyComment
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The reason I want the ram to hit where the trigger rod would is because it requires the least amount of pressure. I figure the less pressure that goes to the frame the more the valve gets. I think the pressure that resets the trigger would be dumped by the 3-ways relief port. I wish I could find a good write up on the 3-way operation so I could figure this out. I think that a single acting ram may not work all that well because there would be an open port on the 3-wayComment
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The sear will reset itself. you need to put a spring on the cocker 3-way to return it. We used a light coil spring that was placed around the shaft and was between the 3-way body and the coupler that would normaly connect the 3-way to the actuator rod. this allwowed the 3-way to return to the "rest" position when you let the trigger go
Hit me up on AIM if you have any questions. AIM: Dager PBN
-DuffComment
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Is this what you mean? So basicly your trigger pull will be the spring weight plus what ever it takes to activate the 3 way. The spring must be very short, is that right? What do you use for a connecting rod, I don't know a thing about cocker parts. Now to get the 3-way in plase behind the trigger, you drill a hole through the back of the triggerframe then part way through thr front with a bit the size of the 3-way. Then finish the hole with a bit big enough to pass the 3-way rod?Comment
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Yes thats exactly the setup for the 3-way and spring. You can either purchase a normal autocker coupler or make one. All you need is to have it mount to the end of the 3-way shaft so you can use it for the spring return.
As for the frame. We drilled thru both the back and front of the frame the size of the 3-way body so it was flush with the front side of the frame. It all depends on where you want the trigger pull to be. We used 2 set screws (one on each side of the frame) to hold the 3-way in place.
-DuffComment
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