I have two ideas for light-throw valves, neither of which I am able to illustrate very well (read: at all)
1) Similar to the mag's on/off valve or a 3-way, have a small block with a shaft running the length of it. o-rings will be turned into the shaft to seal it, and between two o-rings will be either a turned down section or holes drilled. Offset the input and output holes slightly to reduce activation length. Would suffer the same drawbacks of a 3-way, namely, too long of a throw and too much activation force. Supply connected to LPR, output to spring-driven ram.
2) A cupseal style valve, using balanced springs on the trigger end to counteract the force of air on the supply end. Increasing spring tension (using a dial-down tensioner, perhaps) will bring the valve closer and closer to opening on it's own. Valve supply connected to 100psi off of the LPR, output to the spring-driven ram.
Another idea is to have these valves be reset automaticly with the activation of the ram. By tapping off of the ram at the proper stroke length, you could get enough stroke to activate the sear. Once the ram travels past the tap, it would then bleed air to a smaller ram which closes the valve by pushing on the activation pin from the opposite end of the trigger.
I'm no mechanical engineer and certainly no pneumatics expert, but these were two ideas I had thought about for my own pneumatic trigger.
1) Similar to the mag's on/off valve or a 3-way, have a small block with a shaft running the length of it. o-rings will be turned into the shaft to seal it, and between two o-rings will be either a turned down section or holes drilled. Offset the input and output holes slightly to reduce activation length. Would suffer the same drawbacks of a 3-way, namely, too long of a throw and too much activation force. Supply connected to LPR, output to spring-driven ram.
2) A cupseal style valve, using balanced springs on the trigger end to counteract the force of air on the supply end. Increasing spring tension (using a dial-down tensioner, perhaps) will bring the valve closer and closer to opening on it's own. Valve supply connected to 100psi off of the LPR, output to the spring-driven ram.
Another idea is to have these valves be reset automaticly with the activation of the ram. By tapping off of the ram at the proper stroke length, you could get enough stroke to activate the sear. Once the ram travels past the tap, it would then bleed air to a smaller ram which closes the valve by pushing on the activation pin from the opposite end of the trigger.
I'm no mechanical engineer and certainly no pneumatics expert, but these were two ideas I had thought about for my own pneumatic trigger.
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