I like it without the asa too.
edm
edm
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i'm diggin that unibody design, as soon as you get all the bugs worked out i'm gonna want one, as for the frame, i like the new design you made where you can put your own asa on the front but it still seems as though the thumb screw is a little too close to the back of the frame, maby i missed the post about it but do you plan on using a different type of screw?Comment
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i like the latest design great work joeBEO MAFIA
sigpicComment
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Thats not a unibody design that's his own marker design.Originally posted by spiked_bad_monkey
And yes, he plans on using another screw, it's countersunk so that should tell you, and all of logic's frames us a different screw.Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.Comment
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I've heard that before. But my UMF uses a standard screw:Originally posted by snoopay700
Anything wrong or any problem with that?
By the way, Joe (Pneumagger) is the one who modded it for me. Nothing done at the screw hole though.
Thanks.Comment
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Well not saying you can't use the stock one, but usually you see those with another one that's flush with the frame for a cleaner look. At least the ones i've seen.Originally posted by mpsdLast edited by snoopay700; 10-31-2008, 06:55 PM.Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.Comment
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Well, if it's just the looks, then I'm cool with that. Thanks!Originally posted by snoopay700Comment
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Yeah, i think it's the ones with the longer back end that i've seen with it, i dunno if i'm remembering wrong, but i could have sworn i saw most logics with a screw with a flat top head with an angled bottom of the head.Originally posted by mpsdIl n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.Comment
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Since theres all this talk about screws and whatnot, Pneumagger, how do you plan on machining that countersink for the rear frame screw? The grip will be in the way for machining with the frame inverted, and that has to be a flat surface for the screw to rest against.
I didnt even notice till people started to talk about screws and then I noticed this frame will sit back further compared to stock frames.Comment
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I realized, but i forgot to see if there would be clearance to make the countersink, which is something i usually notice...Originally posted by Hilltop CustomsIl n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.Comment
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Bore out the counter bore diameter from the top and then press a small diameter insert in.
A light tack weld in the top and a polish will hide those right up. Once anodized it will not be an issue.
If I cant find an arc welder to borrow from someone local, I may have to get one for my shop.Comment
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cool, I was thinking the same thing with overboring and press fit, but that anno/re-anno might cause some issues....acid getting trapped in between surfaces was my main fear.Comment
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i want one. thats all i really have to say... except maybe saying it twice... I want one
RAWR
Dallara DenComment
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ah, ok, thanks for clearing that up for meOriginally posted by snoopay700Thats not a unibody design that's his own marker design.
And yes, he plans on using another screw, it's countersunk so that should tell you, and all of logic's frames us a different screw.Comment
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If I was to design a new frame,... I would want the following.
A) New grips that are simular to the WDP Angel. Where they use 2 top screws allowing for a gap to do custom work such as solenoids or rams.
B) Leave some extra material. If weight reduction is important,.. take it off the front or in the rail. Extra "meat" is always nice to have when you want to mill out for something that the frame could possibly be used for. The material I speak of is the space between the 2 screws on the WDP grips. This would allow for someone to make a DevilMag clone or an EP using a Cyber-ram without running into lack of material to make nice cuts.
C) Plan for electronics. Cut wire channels along the top of the rail and zig zag the cut patterns to keep the wires in the rail when the body is removed. Plan to thin out the channels along the edges where the wires could go up along side a body for eyes.
D) Plan for the LPR channel inside the rail. Majority of the channel can be cut,.. and not exposed up through the front so that people who do not want to use an LPR dont have to see the channel in the front of the frame. Those that wish to use it,... they only have to remove a very small amount of metal. (think along lines of the RT rails,.. how thin the material is at the bottom side of the front fore grip hole. You can drill it out in less than 5 seconds)
E) Use a set screw to hold the trigger rod to the trigger,.. and not a 'pressed in" trigger axle. Specifically,... how the EGO triggers are. The axle is very loose,.. but when the set screw is attached,.. the axle and trigger can not possibly fall out. This prevents having to drive a pin out, and damaging the anno on the gun.
F) A snatch grip. I havent used my Logic EM Ripper much,... but the snatch grip is nice. It wouldnt have to be machined into the frame,.. but having it is a welcome gift
G) No safety. I dont believe in a safety,... I think they set you up for a welcome accident waiting to happen. If its electric,.. turn it off. If its mechanical,... de-gas it. Safetys are more parts,... less usable space on the top of the frame for other parts, and more machining you have to add into the design.
H) Plan for the LPR mounted to the front of the ASA. We all know it has been said,..... might as well throw the thing on there for everyone else.
I) Machine and tap a hole into the ASA from the top inside of the frame/rail to allow for a STAB-FATTY (or the like) to be used to make a sleeper EP or Pneumag. The hole should allow for a 90 degree barb to be screwed into the top,.. and an air hose passage to the inside of the frame.
J) Plan to house a LPR inside the frame for a sleeper Pneumag.
I might have some more suggestions,... but this is as much as I can think of right now
~ P8nt_______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" MenardComment
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