New Frame - Preorder inquiry

[sffudapparel]

I think if you took out the angled asa and just built a screw hole or two for any foregrip.
I think it'd be even better, because not all foregrips are asa threaded.

My .02. Great idea. Thanks for your creativity

Ty

[MntlHazrd]

I would defnitely be interested in this and would hope i could have the money available for it if/when it goes into production. id like to keep the grip angle but i would like for there to be a way to make the asa modular for the differing opinions of vert of 15*

[Pneumagger]

Looks like one night a UMF frame got blind stinking drunk, hooked up with a Ion frame and 9 months later had a baby.....

1. I would start with separating the meat between the ASA and the trigger guard.
2. Redesign the trigger guard. I like the ego frames.
3. Go with a 90 degree simular to a G7.
4. Go with ego or angel grips.
5. Go with a wave style trigger
6. Mill out the top of the frame to except a MPA-3/lpr hose/msv-2
7. keep the dove tail milling on the bottom of the frame.

I can see where your're coming from with the ion statement. But that's a matter of preference.
Personally, I LOVE the punisher(?) (DW?) ion frames.

1) Why separate the ASA and the gaurd (just playing devil's advocate here ) when the concept is smaller? More length simply ='s more weight/cost.
Any examples of what you mean by "

2)the trigger guard can be redesigned, but the ASA makes up a significant portion of the gaurd... so you'll be limited somewhat.

3/4) While I like the Angel Vert and 45* frames alot (I made the airwalk with the WDP 45*), why on earth would you go through the trouble of elimining the rail and getting rid of height... only to add MORE height/weight in the grip style?
I could see moving to an EGO shaped frame or DM. I don;t own an ego so getting proper dimensions could get tricky. Whatever grip style gets used will obviously get an appropriate grip panel pattern.

5) Gotcha on the trigger... the Logic scythe-style trigger looks like this:



6) You cannot simply "mill out the top" for the MPA if the sear needs to sit and index there. There needs to be a specified gap for the sear to stay centered and the walls must hold the pin.
Plus, the sear is sitting there anyways so the MPA will have to under the sear. Just install stuff from the side.

[Toll]

I have an ego frame thats getting no love if you want it to get measurements/etc (no charge ofcourse)

[Pneumagger]

I have an ego frame thats getting no love if you want it to get measurements/etc (no charge ofcourse)

I'll see if I can't get someone in the PBN CAD thread to send me a prebuilt CAD file.
Then I only import the top half of this frame - probably like an hour's worht of work

[grEnAlEins]

i love the angle, id love for it to be easilly "pmueabble" if thats a word, lol, i bet this things tiny with a classic sized body

QFT! With the angle like that and pneumatic friendly features I'd probably go in, depending on when this is really gonna happen.

[going_home]

Looks to me like you might need to modify the sear also.
If you are losing 3/8" in height of where the sear pin is on AM/MM rails.....
dropping the axis point down might cause problems ?
Seems like the trigger rod would have to attach to the sear at a higher point then a stock sear
to compensate for the sears pivot point being lower.

[punkncat]

Is it just me, or is this frame not long enough to allow the zlock?

I feel that is a rather important issue to overlook. Not only does it not allow the reg to unscrew off the valve, but also as a "safety" of sorts to help keep the valve from shooting out back in the case the field strip screw breaks.
The rear end could be made out like a nifty snatch grip to give it the tail it would need to incorporate that feature.

A vert asa offering would be nice as well.

[warbeak2099]

It should without a doubt come with holes drilled and tapped for an actuator.

But yea, 150-200 is fair.

[Pneumagger]

It should without a doubt come with holes drilled and tapped for an actuator.

But yea, 150-200 is fair.

Why would you pretap the actuator holes? The threads into the actuator should be in time with the threads on the frame.
That way you rely on shear bolt strength to hold the actuator instead of thread shear (strips holes).

[PsychoBaller]

Integrated ASA aye? pretty nifty.

Aren't you missing a rail in that last pic though, in the initial post? or is this frame gonna eliminate the need for a rail?

[MANN]

Is it just me, or is this frame not long enough to allow the zlock?

I feel that is a rather important issue to overlook. Not only does it not allow the reg to unscrew off the valve, but also as a "safety" of sorts to help keep the valve from shooting out back in the case the field strip screw breaks.

I personally have never heard of the thumb screw shearing off while the mag is in use and shooting the valve out the back.

Just FYI Xmags have straight zlocks.

As for the reg unscrewing....maybe. IMO I would think it would be similar to any screw in reg. Yes it can unscrew, but it is unlikly, and the person should pay attention while adjusting the reg.

I have taken out the pins before on micromags as they are not milled loose enough most of the time.

[Pneumagger]

Is it just me, or is this frame not long enough to allow the zlock?

I feel that is a rather important issue to overlook. Not only does it not allow the reg to unscrew off the valve, but also as a "safety" of sorts to help keep the valve from shooting out back in the case the field strip screw breaks.
The rear end could be made out like a nifty snatch grip to give it the tail it would need to incorporate that feature.

A vert asa offering would be nice as well.

The concept model was built entirely in the footprint of the UMF. It is not long enough to allow the locking pin to function.
One of the slated changes is to streamline the back or add a snatch grip. Either way, it will need extended and the zlock will be incorporated.

I did the model on my work PC using Pro-e. I only have Solidworks at home.
So changed can only be made when I'm on my work PC.

Looks to me like you might need to modify the sear also.
If you are losing 3/8" in height of where the sear pin is on AM/MM rails.....
dropping the axis point down might cause problems ?
Seems like the trigger rod would have to attach to the sear at a higher point then a stock sear
to compensate for the sears pivot point being lower.

Look into the trigger guard. Notice how low the trigger rod slot goes.
Regardless, the rod length will still need adjusted.

Alternatively, the trigger rod channel could remain the same and the sear leg cut in half or so and shortened.

[BigTrucker]

I like it. As with most AGD items it should be made to fit all bodies. The problem that i see is where would you press in the twist lock pin for the old school bodies???

[MANN]

I like it. As with most AGD items it should be made to fit all bodies. The problem that i see is where would you press in the twist lock pin for the old school bodies???

old school bodies do not work with any rt pro/ emag lenght rails.