Aluminum Classic Valve

[Patron God of Pirates]

This is my cap'd valve and I think it works great. Deus polished it and tapped the back per my request. I would like to see a valve made with this style cap built in as a solid unit.

No that is a truly "Micro" Mag. I'm assuming the velocity adjusting is done at the tank reg then? What reg do you have on it? What do you have the output set at?

This has me interested in the capped valve. Not just for looks and size reduction but to simplify. Just one reg. Anyone want to make a "Cap" that acts as an inline ASA? Just screw the tank right into the back of the valve!

[OPBN]

In my opinion, this thread needs to die and a poll needs to be taken. I really only see one main person, and couple others with their toes in the water on "wanting" this done... that's 3/50, that doesn't pay the bills...

XMT said for what we were looking to get done, only 12 or so would need to be built.

I dont have an exact price in my head. i would think the front half of the valve could be made and sold at $100 even if atleast 12 people would take one. TK said i could make up to 50 of them.

Jay

Regarding price. My thought is, if we are subtantially simplifying this by eliminating having to thread the back end and reducing air passages, that pricing should be better. I suck at MS paint or I would diagram this out. But I think where we are at is basically the bolt area being identical to a Classic other than possibly having the PT threading being different. The On/off would be the same, but the input would be drilled farther in so that a central air passageway from the back to the on/off would be drilled.

A further thought came to me though, there could be an optional input cut all the way through, or for that matter reversed. You could essentially have a "t" in the middle that would allow for a range of setups.

[Cokrkilr]

I think you'd have major issues with the tank right off the valve, like bolt stick, not much support after you cut the rail and frame down, possible snapped off field strip screws... it would be cool for that sniper look with a 13ci tank or something, maybe on a pump, I just don't see it being reliable with anything larger.

[Cokrkilr]

XMT said for what we were looking to get done, only 12 or so would need to be built.

Yeah, I read that. That still only leaves about 3 people though, price dependant...

So just to open up another can of worms on this, and potentially open this up to more than just a "classic" valve front. What would it take to make this a universal front? You could have the option to have the classic semi auto fire, or the bounce if you wanted to set it up rt?

Would it still even work as normal rt being capped then externally regulated?

[Cokrkilr]

Basically like a micro x valve, some assembly required

[Carnage reigns]

Yeah, I read that. That still only leaves about 3 people though, price dependant...

So just to open up another can of worms on this, and potentially open this up to more than just a "classic" valve front. What would it take to make this a universal front? You could have the option to have the classic semi auto fire, or the bounce if you wanted to set it up rt?

Would it still even work as normal rt being capped then externally regulated?

I think I have seen that the RT only works because of the on board regulator.

[Cokrkilr]

XMT said for what we were looking to get done, only 12 or so would need to be built.



Regarding price. My thought is, if we are subtantially simplifying this by eliminating having to thread the back end and reducing air passages, that pricing should be better. I suck at MS paint or I would diagram this out. But I think where we are at is basically the bolt area being identical to a Classic other than possibly having the PT threading being different. The On/off would be the same, but the input would be drilled farther in so that a central air passageway from the back to the on/off would be drilled.

A further thought came to me though, there could be an optional input cut all the way through, or for that matter reversed. You could essentially have a "t" in the middle that would allow for a range of setups.

I catch what your throwing down I have understood all the design changes throughout this thread. And the air port drilled straight thru would be a pretty cool feature, you could do the input left or right then a micro gauge etc etc...

I'm not trying to kill the thread or anyone's dreams of this, there just has to be some voice of reason saying "who's really going to buy all these"... 3 people

Still, price dependent... until he cads this and finds the correct aluminum and shaves one down he still doesn't know 100%. That's all I'm getting at.

For perspective, I wanted a custom rail done, I was told no because to keep it even under $200 per rail id have to find more people than he thought would buy it... and that was just a rail. To be made out of any type of cheaper aluminum and whatever else.

[Carnage reigns]

For $100 or so? I'm down! And I don't need it to be a complete valve. I just need the front, keep the bolt of the x-valve I have, I will buy a cap from whoever is producing them, the pick up a reg for the front and presto, we rolling.

[Cokrkilr]

For $100 or so? I'm down! And I don't need it to be a complete valve. I just need the front, I will buy a cap from whoever is producing them, the pick up a reg for the front and presto, we rolling.

Well, technically you'll also need a x valve power tube, power tube o rings, spacers, tip, bolt, on off assembly, then you'll be rolling

Since this is just for the front "shell" of the valve.

[Carnage reigns]

And how fast would the recharge be in theory? If I wanted to run a pneumag set up off of this would it be possible?

[Justus]

And how fast would the recharge be in theory? If I wanted to run a pneumag set up off of this would it be possible?

Isn't that going to be totally dependent on what reg you decide to use?

[Cokrkilr]

And how fast would the recharge be in theory? If I wanted to run a pneumag set up off of this would it be possible?

Still using a classic on off, which is the restrictor in the classic valve already.... would make it the same as a classic...

I asked this question about 2 pages back athomas answered it

[Carnage reigns]

Isn't that going to be totally dependent on what reg you decide to use?

I'm asking because I have no clue. Let's say I use a AKA sidewinder. Also if I just decided to cap my x-valve and I didn't care about the ability to RT. Could that work? What would I need besides a cap and an external reg?

[Cokrkilr]

I'm asking because I have no clue. Let's say I use a AKA sidewinder. Also if I just decided to cap my x-valve and I didn't care about the ability to RT. Could that work? What would I need besides a cap and an external reg?

Well, in reality you can pneu the classic, same as the x or any other variant because your taking the ability to rt out of the equation... it all comes down to input pressure and human hands. The classic will arguably handle 15 bps before shootdown as is, if you can twiddle your fingers faster that's where you'd have problems. You'd most likely be chuffing and chopping by then though

[OPBN]

I'm asking because I have no clue. Let's say I use a AKA sidewinder. Also if I just decided to cap my x-valve and I didn't care about the ability to RT. Could that work? What would I need besides a cap and an external reg?

Capping an X is more difficult. Caps can be made and honestly Deus did make some, but not sure if he is still making the X caps or not. I wasnt really interested in this as an option as I didnt want to cap a $200 valve. I used to have one that I got really cheap and was going to use that one, but after DM took 2-3 months to finally get back to me, I had decided to sell the valve and move on with some other things.

Maybe I just need to post up a poll and see if we truly have enough takers on this as it sounds like we may be losing steam already.