Aluminum Classic Valve

[OPBN]

Never knew the name of the reg but I always have liked the look of the sidewinder (just googled). That may be the one I pick up.

I don't actually care for the newer one much, but I lucked out and found an older model. The great thing about them is they have a 360* swivel on the input.

[blackdeath1k]

Oh you are talking about getting rid of the side input? Yeah, no thanks on that. I would still want a side input. I was thinking just boring that through so that it hit the center passage which would now be 1/8" or so and just using a gauge or plug to plug up the back.

Oh I would be good with that as well. Only way I will get my first option is if I paid even more for mine to be done that way.. if he would even do it. And depending on when this comes up for money talks work. We will see what my petty cash is then. Right now my pb fund is low. New to me scuba tank came in today.

[OPBN]

Right now my pb fund is low.

Trust me. I know. And beside the possibility of this, I know of at least one more neato thing possibly coming out that I have been dreaming of for some time, so I have to keep that in mind. Might see an "OPBN FIRE SALE" in the months to come.

[Nobody]

I'm not an airsmith, so I don't really know if it would or not. There is some open area inside the cap. I wasnt sure if this acted like a volume chamber. There is some formula for figuring this out. Either way, it wouldn't think it would require that much higher input. But I really don't know. My thinking that you already have the are between the VASA and valve and since the center air passage is now 1/8" instead of the 1/16 or so that it is now, it would make up for any volume lost. Currently my setup is requiring about 575 psi or so from the inline reg to get FPS in the proper range.

remember, the air from the reg goes into the valve chamber and is shut off by the on/off. the air in the cap, as little as it would be, is regulated, but not used to fire.

[OPBN]

So the air in the chamber in front of the on/off is what pushes the paint? So the volume behind the on/off doesn't matter?

[Carnage reigns]

I don't actually care for the newer one much, but I lucked out and found an older model. The great thing about them is they have a 360* swivel on the input.

Do the new one swivel also? What's the difference? I'm excited!!!!!

[OPBN]

Do the new one swivel also? What's the difference? I'm excited!!!!!

Yes.

[Cokrkilr]

So the air in the chamber in front of the on/off is what pushes the paint? So the volume behind the on/off doesn't matter?

That would be correct. When the on off is down, or the gun is cocked, the air is charged in the entire assembly. From the power tube o ring to the cap. The on off gets actuated, cuts the air flow and trips the sear to release the bolt and all the air in the front chamber, then the cycle repeats when the trigger is let off...

This also makes me wonder, although I doubt it because you still have the restrictive on off... would this help the valve recharge any faster than a standard full valve?

[athomas]

This also makes me wonder, although I doubt it because you still have the restrictive on off... would this help the valve recharge any faster than a standard full valve?

Theoretically, having more volume on demand for the initial inrush will help, but you would need quite a large reserve volume to make a difference. The on-off is really the biggest restriction in the classic valve design.

The low pressure air has to travel farther to get to the front chamber using the remote regulator in this setup than with the AIR mounted directly on the valve and has more potential for restrictions. Therefore, the final top-up has the potential to take longer if everything isn't working really well.

[Cokrkilr]

Got ya, that's what I figured

[OPBN]

As a quick update. I spoke with Deus Machina and he may only have enough material to make 3-4 ofcaps and may not have access to facilities to make any more for the foreseeable future. We may need to discuss whether XMT can make the caps or if we want to see if the idea of an alternate design is feasible.

[Xmagterror]

Making the back caps is not a problem but if i did them i would like to add a burst disc (like the ones used on HPA tanks) to the design for safety.

[OPBN]

Making the back caps is not a problem but if i did them i would like to add a burst disc (like the ones used on HPA tanks) to the design for safety.

What about the design idea mentioned earlier? Seems like most of the people interested are possibly wanting it for an external reg useage. What about something that has just a side input and a 1/8" straight through from the back to the on/off? I know I definitely don't want a burste disc sticking out of the back of mine, but I guess you could thread it for that and we could use at our own risk?

Edit* I aren't burst discs 1/8" NPT? If so, works for me....

[blackdeath1k]

What about the design idea mentioned earlier? Seems like most of the people interested are possibly wanting it for an external reg useage. What about something that has just a side input and a 1/8" straight through from the back to the on/off? I know I definitely don't want a burste disc sticking out of the back of mine, but I guess you could thread it for that and we could use at our own risk?

Edit* I aren't burst discs 1/8" NPT? If so, works for me....

If this is going to be basically just a capped front half I am out. I will use what I have for my project. I will need to buy the cap. But not the front valve half.

If this is a sole operation front half though I am still interested. He can put a co2 bust disk in the back for his liability protection. We can remove it for a gauge or whatever we want to fit our needs. Works for me.

If this

[OPBN]

I don't see a reason it shouldn't be able to be either. All the milling on the front is the same.