Originally posted by luke
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It will go right into any valve with two on/off top orings. On the classic valves the pressure pushing the pin back is alot less than on the Xvalves, so sometimes it will seem slower. I only had straight semi on mine, but I would recomend to anyone using the T-board with the ramping chip to set the rof no higher than 15bps. Anything faster, you can out shoot the valve, and maybe the ability of the sear to reset the noid. -
Depends on how fast you want it back, pay now and I can reship as soon as it done.Originally posted by warbeak2099
(It dosen't matter to me, but generally people pay upfront)Comment
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I agree totally. I just know that some custom shops want it when the job is done. I'll send the MO and gun parts together. Gonna ship it ASAP! Who should I make the MO out to btw? Lukes Customs or your name?
Oh, and I had another thing on my mind. I'd like to know if you can drill the two standard bottomline holes on the frame. All these adapter blocks make the gun unnecesarily taller. I'd be willing to pay the extra money to have a shorter profile. I looked at an an ESP frame and there looks like there's enough room. I was just wondering if you could drill and tap the frame so I can just forego the stupid adapter block. Thanks.Last edited by warbeak2099; 06-19-2006, 10:28 AM.Comment
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Same as the shipping name.I agree totally. I just know that some custom shops want it when the job is done. I'll send the MO and gun parts together. Gonna ship it ASAP! Who should I make the MO out to btw? Lukes Customs or your name?
I don't think there is room, I decited early on it was a bad idea, but I'll look again. I don't recall what the problem was.Oh, and I had another thing on my mind. I'd like to know if you can drill the two standard bottomline holes on the frame. All these adapter blocks make the gun unnecesarily taller. I'd be willing to pay the extra money to have a shorter profile. I looked at an an ESP frame and there looks like there's enough room. I was just wondering if you could drill and tap the frame so I can just forego the stupid adapter block.Comment
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Aright, I'll go for the adapter block. With a CP direct mount ASA, the difference should be made up. I'm gonna try and get the package sent out tonight or tomorrow morning.Comment
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I guess it would work, add $12 to the total if you want me to set it up. Make sure to note it on the invoice you are sending with the parts if you decide to go this route...Comment
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Oh, cool then. I'll add $12 to the total and write it in on the invoice I printed out. I have to cross out the paypal fees since I'm doing MO too.Comment
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Yes, thats correct...Originally posted by warbeak2099Comment
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Package sent. The UPS store said I couldn't send it thorugh them since you gave me a PO box. But the Post Office took it. I hope it isn't a problem or anything. You can pick the package up from your PO box right?Comment
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You were supposed to send it through the post office, that why I gave you my PO box #.
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You can not use and original Automag/Minimag rail they are to narrow for the E-fame to bolt to. All others should be fine.
Also, the bottom of the rail is too thin for the new sear to operate.
AND, after I mill the top of the frame the bottom of the AM rail interferes with the operation of the trigger.Comment
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hey luke i was recently onthe fence between mags or a spyder. i went with the mags but i still want the rocking trigger. now i can get both but i dont like how the rocking trigger frame looks. would it be possible for you to convert an intelliframe to a rocking trigger? i know it would probably cost like 300 bucks but i think it would be worth it. are there copyright laws one somethin like this?
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Sorry, that is not a service I offer...Comment
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Luke, can you do an old style RT. It will need the valve milled for the ULT.Comment
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