ALL about the WARP-FEED

[SI|ENT|3O|3]

im having a lot of trouble with chopping with my warp. i know i know level 10, but i chop like every other ball. i just don't understand. i just got a new barrel and have plastic nubbins in it. i am kinda frustrated right now. maybe ill have to get rid of my warp, revy, and pf-hr body and trade them for a no rise and a halo. i am starting to think this is the answer. i really love the warp but can't get it to work right!! please save me.
-sebastian

[SI|ENT|3O|3]

nevermind...man im an idiot...somehow both of the plastic nubbins i was using snapped now i feel like a real poopy head. well i love warp again.
-sebastian

[Havoc_online]

how'd they snap? did you have both barrel o'rings on? Do you have extra nubbins?

[shadow462]

few quick questions

I'm thinking about getting a warp for my lx-intelli-retromag.

I have a pf, hl body, and I'm a righty. Is there a reliable way to feed this setup without putting the 90* adapter on the top of the p/f. Would it be feasible to put the 90* adapter directly into the warp's "out" hole, and run the hose to the bottom of the p/f?

Also, are you familiar with butter's mod in which the rev batteries, sensor, and board are removed and "intellilinked" into the rev? If so, is a 12v modded warp necessary? Would a 9 volt warp essentially make the rev 9 volt also (I'm assuming yes).

Finally, is there a reliable feeding method to avoud cutting a hole in the hopper (ie- idea i mentioned above to run hose up other side).

Thanks so much
John

[Havoc_online]

you could run the 90* from the bottom of the pf around to your warp.

The 9v warp feeds faster than any revy.

just make sure your hose is not being pinched and you'll be fine.

[TraXeR]

I just got a used warp and everything is working, but the 9 volt battery hookup wires to the board are disconnected, im guessing they were torn off or something, where do I re solder them? im worried about frying the board.

[JT2002]

Originally posted by TraXeR
I just got a used warp and everything is working, but the 9 volt battery hookup wires to the board are disconnected, im guessing they were torn off or something, where do I re solder them? im worried about frying the board.

yeah, i did the same thing what i found to work best for me, since i dont like to have to re solder things that dont need it, i wanted to keep the motor connected to the board, so i took apart the whole thing, then pulled the board out just enough so that i could slip the 2 battery wires around the side of the board. doing it this way gives you very easy access to the board to solder since your doing the soldering on the same side the potentiometer is on. worked for me, not most professional way to do it, but it didnt fry the board (like it might have if i tried to get the solder out of the holes to reinsert a wire). while your in there soldering, i suggest that you buy some wire and make everything a little longer so this cant happen again. also make sure you dont lose the springs under the board because i believe they are needed if you use the vibration senser to run the gun.

[TraXeR]

um, i know how to solder it on, but i dont know **WHERE** on the board each wire goes to, thats what i needed help with.

[CMDane]

+ (red) to VCC
- (black) to ground

Both are clearly marked on the Warp board if you unscrew the 3 screws on the board cover. VCC is the third one down, Gnd is the 4th (last).

Charles

[richardh]

dumb question

so does the capacitor go in series or in parrallel with the out put of the 12 volt reg?

[Havoc_online]

In series. In parallel, both batteries are still running 9v.

Welcome to AO!

[TraXeR]

k thnx guys, my warpds working great now, i just gotta set it so its more sensitive and spins longer, ive read some of the instructions, but i still dont want to screw with it until im 100% sure, any help? can you take some pics of the board and circle what i need to change on it and tell me how and what it will do thnx. right now it spins for less than 1/2 a ball, i want it to spin the distance of 3 balls each time and i want it to be just under UBER sensitive so i can tap thwe side with my hand when reloading balls cause the white button is hard tp find when not looking. thnx. plz send this help to my email [email protected]

[CMDane]

It's not really that hard, TraXeR, the directions are spot on. I'd recommend something a little less sensitive, or using the white button to feed (quieter on the field if bumped, less prone to run accidentally if jarred, longer motor life), but it's your Warp.

Since you want increased sensitivity and a decent run time, work on the sensitivity first. Put the battery in the Warp, take off the board cover and look for the potentiometer. Should look like a blue pencil eraser with a white cap on it. Gently turn that clockwise until it stops. That is the most sensitive setting. In actuality, the Warp should be spinning. Slowly turn it CCW until it stops. Bump the side of the Warp at approx. the strength that you think you'll bump it on the field. Turn the cap CCW, and repeat. Bump and turn. Bump and turn. Eventually, you'll bump and the Warp won't run. Turn the pot a smidgen clockwise and bump. You should be dialed in at that point.

For the amount of feed time, or dwell, there is a group of jumpers on the left side, just below and to the right of where you soldered the battery wires back on. If you are feeding half a ball when the Warp runs, it sounds like you have 1 jumper in place. The more jumpers you add, the longer the Warp runs. It doesn't matter in what sequence you add jumpers, just add them vertically. Horizontally should shut the dwell down. If you don't have spare jumpers, you can pick them up at Radio Shack or any Mom & Pop computer shop. Hit the white button and add a jumper. Repeat until it spins the desired time.

Put the cover back on, gas the marker up and fill your hopper. Go burn a couple of balls and test it out. Make sure everything is set the way you want it and don't be afraid to tinker with the settings more. Easy to remember, more jumpers, more time. More to the right (potentiometer), more sensitive.

Hope this helps,
Charles

[rehme]

on the 12v mod is the reg suppose to get hot?

[StygShore]

How do you hook this thing up?

I have allt he parts, and I see the pictures, maybe I am missing something....

Once you have the wiring all in place, how do you attach it to the Warp itself? Is there any point in leaving the original 9 volt adapter on the gun? ( mine is broken off is why I ask.

I did all the wiring with the on/off and LED mod, I just dont know how to attach it to my gun now Sorry computer technician, but horrible with electronics


Styg