BlackVCG's ULT Thread

[RT77]

Ok guys my gun will not even shoot now...it shoots once if I smack it with the palm of my hand on the back of the gun.I had six shims and there was way to much response, I have 5 shims in it now and it does not shoot. Its like the trigger rod does not have enough pressure or something, to make things worse a guy at my field said he could adjust the trigger rod and make it work so he did but it did not work so now that maybe messed up too.....please help.
I'm running a me'lee 68ci. 3000 and I have the stock single trigger frame on.

["the FitZ"]

r u running in a classic, and by the way dont mess w/ the trigger rod.

[Sk8ermog]

Hey I just had my ULT cleaned up and tuned by my local pro shop. I decided to take her for a spin and video it. Here is a link to the video: CLICK HERE FOR MY ULT VIDEO

That's my collection site, but just scroll down and you'll see the links for the video under my ULE Mag. I think the ULT is sweet, but it's way to fast for me. I'm looking to trade it for a stock On/Off for my X-valve and like $30. Also does anyone know if a classic on/off will work in a X-valve?

[Zedaine]

I just have a few questions, I will be getting my RT mag from AGD in a few days with everything installed and tested by them, everything should work correctly, but if the ULT isn't how I would like it then I would probably have to add shims, right? If I am getting the Mag with the UTL already installed by them how many will be on the ULT and how many extras will I get, is it the same 2 on the ULT and 3 extras like when you get the ULT kit?

[the larch]

Well, assuming that they actually tune and test it, Then there is no telling how many shims they may have on it. It seems that every mag is just a little different and just requires a little patience and some air to tune. Remember if you have level 10 shims, they are exactly double the thickness of one ULT and can be used in their place. Do you have an adjustable reg on your tank?

[Zedaine]

Nope my tank is preset at 850 psi.

So if they tune and test it at the factory, should I already have a great reactivity?

[the larch]

Well, Alot of your reactivity actually depends on your tank. Higher pressures often increase your reactivity.
A ule trigger mod actually reduces your reactivity while making the trigger lighter. You have to just juggle the variables to find a set up that works for your marker.
If your marker is set up and shooting, I would add ule shims until it went into run away and then back off one shim. I would then start turning the input pressure up to see if I could get better reactivity. I actually got mine to were the tension in my finger would allow the trigger to bounce. I got some VERY respectable rates of fire from that.

[Zedaine]

Alright, thanks for the help.

[Matches]

I have set up my mini mag just as "drx975" described and it is working great.
Im using a standard Minimag AIR valve, with a 6 hole mod in the back.
850 PSI preset.
LX bolt with 2 shims & medium spring.
ULT with 4 standard shims & 2 LX shims.
I found that is is easier to short stroke if you are not use to the trigger, but the lightness of the trigger pull is fantastic.

cheers


Ive allso had reports from friends using a standard valve with a hyperframe and the ULT works really well in the system.

[Mag89]

Do I remove the O-ring in my X-valve before installing the ULT?????

[ChucktheMAGician]

Originally posted by Mag89
Do I remove the O-ring in my X-valve before installing the ULT?????

If you're talking about the 2 in the bottom when you take the stock on/off assembly out, yes.

[Mag89]

Thanks man

[the electrician]

I have a few questions about this upgrade.

first off, the shims. they go inbetween the double o-rings and the on/off assembly? I'm assuming thier job is to keep the pin from going in too far, thus keeping the recharge rate as high as possible, without "runaway" or leaking.
so what they really do is lower the on/off assembly, which means the back of the sear hits the bottom of the on/off keeping the sear from pushing the pin in to far. if so, isn't the hardened steel sear hitting the bottom of the brass on/off everytime you pull the trigger?

as for the new pin:
I take it it has a new smaller diameter head and a smaller reduced diameter shaft? if so, what are the new measurements?
I know the original RT pin is about .117" at the head and reduced shaft is about .078" in diameter.

if anybody could answer these question I would definitely appreciate it.

I'm working on an on/off design that would produce the same light trigger pull for a standard valve, but not adversely effect the recharge rate.

["the FitZ"]

The ULT on/off screws into two pieces (on/off top and bottom) the shims go in between where it screws together. the hardened steel sear touches the hole in your body and not the on/off so there is no harm there.
What AGD did with this on/off is shave mass off so the air would have "less to grab and push down", that's the only way I can explain it. The head is just big enough to shut off air from the top and I don't know the measurements. It would be impossible to make one better. If it was they would have. You might be able to make one lighter but the reactivity would be killed, and you might also be able to make one more reactive but heavier. But not both, to my knowledge anyway.

Hope this helps

[the electrician]

the shims make the on/off assembly longer. no matter where you put them. on top or in the middle. this means you using the bottom of the on off as a type of sear stop. to keep it from pushing the pin in farther than you want.

the back of the sear has a "nub" that sticks up and that is the part that pushes the on/off pin in. this "nub" can and does go through the hole in the body. if you trigger pull allows it, it will go all the way up and "top out" on the bottom of the on/off assembly.

if you read my post you will see that I understand what they did to make the trigger pull lighter. less dia on the top of the pin means less of a force factor, and less force created by the applied psi. now if the smaller bottom part of the pin has also been reduced from the original RT design(.072" actually, not .078") this means the initial part of a trigger pull will be very light.

impossible to make one better? I'm not trying to. like I said, this ULT is not recommended for the standard or classic valve. the reason being the pressure on top of the on/off is not enough to make the pin reset the sear completely everytime and this can cause bolt and sear wear problems along with just plain not functioning properly.

so like I said, I'm looking to design a version that would help the STANDARD valve. a lighter trigger pull without sacrificing too much on the recharge rate. I don't care about reactivity.
this is why I'm looking for the measurements of the ULT pin. somebody, anybody with a ULT and some calipers.
I want to know what to start with.