stopblock idea

[magnj]

AGD should offer a cheap Electro Frame for the Automag/RT. If he could put out a frame under 175 that allowed something like 18BPS, he would make mad stupid crazy money

[Nomad]

If he did that would there be any point for the E-mag or the X-mag?

[Catch22]

When will the madness end? Well...you figure he gotta retire some day?

No, That will just give him more time to think!!! Nooo!

[askman]

why would anybody want an electronic frame, when ULE trigger is already as light as electronic frame, without the hassle. I will be getting ULE for sure for my Xvalve, because I wanted to stay all mechanical.

Also, the article basically state that Level X bolt is mandatory for ULE trigger.

[durtysoufcraka]

will this ule trigger be made w/intellifeed capabilities or will i be stuck buying an intelli frame that is not quite as sexy or light as the ULE trigger. ...intelli frame + ule .... please?

[Aliens-8-MyDad]

will this ule trigger be made w/intellifeed capabilities or will i be stuck buying an intelli frame that is not quite as sexy or light as the ULE trigger. ...intelli frame + ule .... please?

what? i may be tired but this doesnt make any sense.... unless u thinking the ULE trigger is a frame.. it isnt a frame its a on/off valve upgrade, you can use any frame u want with it, but u must have level 10

[TransMan]

Originally posted by acecl22
i wonder if tom's engineers could play with the sear assy so that the assembly itself moves the same amount, but you only have to move the trigger a fraction of what it is now, im sure its possible, just dont know how

You could have some sort of gears in it that would shorten the trigger pull but it would make the pull heavier again....

[TheJester]

well is it hard to set up? look at the diagram, how can it be hard, there's only a few differences from the stock on/off valve. the only thing you have to adjust is the amount of shims you place between the on/off top and bottom...how hard can it be? sounds like you can train a monkey to do it.

in terms of the reactivness of it, well i think that might go back to some of my original speculation, it all depends on how big the head is compared to the stock pin, and how heavy it is compared to the stock pin. the only thing i'm not sure about is because the larger piston size down by the sear. it's been a while since i've last done anything with pistion dynamics, or anything remotly realivant. but if you have the same amount of force applied to the same size piston (all compared to the stock pin) but that pushing on a larger surface area....does that not result in lower pressure? if you have 800 psi on a square inch size pin (i know, the on/off pin is a LOT smaller than that) but the bottom of that pin (the part that's hitting the sear for the reactiveness) is 2 square inches...isn't it hitting the sear with 1/2 the force it would be if it were the same size? please correct me if i'm wrong here, but i think the reactiveness of it is determined by the vairied pin sizes. i realize that doesn't answer the question on if it's still there or not, cuase i guess we just have to wait and see.

pull length....thing about what affects the pull length in a mag, why it's so short to begin with. it's the distance the sear has to travel down to release the bolt. so because this is an on/off mod, not a sear or bolt mod, the trigger pull length will be unaffected, for the sear will release the bolt at the same place.

[sbpyro]

is your gun really that heavy that you cant carry it with ULE parts? :P

if so, you should consider workin out more


QUINCYMASSGUY


Hey leave the fat ppl alone ( we smell our own)

[kosmo]

I remember back in "the day" people would grind and bevel their sears to let it slip off the bolt smoother and sooner. If done just right, you could have one hell of a trigger. But polishing a little too much would cause your gun to go full auto all the time. And since the sear is made from a pansy metal, it would wear and go full auto after a while any way and you would have to replace the sear. Anywho, perhaps an aluminum or SS sear would be more viable? Best part is that its simple enough to do yourself, though it prolly voids the warranty.

BTW, if anyone is confused as to what Im talking about, heres a link: Ravi's Paintball Place

[Python14]

So let me get this straight. I have a standard valve with 2 orings so it says it will work....but how well?

Is it worth my money to try it when the beta comes out?

[acecl22]

i think im gonna wait till a few batches after the beta testing, so that i can see reviews, and so that all the kinks are worked out

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

?

Massive idea below, something of a ramble, knowledgable people in physics, paintball guns, please critique. AGD definitely welcome to contribute or ask followup questions.

I think the sear is the bottleneck now when changing to a mechanical mag with the same pull as an electric. If a new gear system with a sear holding just the edge of the bolt but not wearing could be designed (big could, just throwing concepts) this would allow shorter pull and hopefully only require minimal weight to pull. Work=Distance X Force. AGD has reduced the force needed without increasing the distance which is awesome. Less needed to pull the trigger. The same benefit can be gotten again if the pull can be reduced OR the pull can be reduced at a cost of more force being required (the gear system). So a sear setup with adjustable gears could be used to either lengthen the pull and make it even lighter OR to shorten the pull and make much shorter. Imagine a 1.5lb trigger that only needs to go a millimeter to cycle. a gear system connecting the trigger and sear (not the sear pin) could do that. I wish I could sketch it out, but I suck at graphics programs and don't have the time. Imagine a small gear around the trigger axis and a larger gear under the sear. Now, instead of a trigger rod imagine a rod with teeth that sits atop this larger gear and connect at the base of the sear, just below the sear pin, so when the gear turns, it pushes and activates the sear. So by adjusting the size of the larger gear you could have the following pull combinations (going on the Mag pull being 3mm although I'm probably wrong):

4mm X 11.25oz = 45 points work (33% increase in pull, 33% decrease in weight making it sickingly light but risks more chuffs)
3mm X 15oz = 45 points work
2mm X 22.5oz = 45 points work (33% reduction in pull, 33% increase in weight, so heavier but less chuffs and easier to walk for those with strong fingers)

Now... the question is how to take advantage of the gear system and using the new settings (2mm x 22.5oz) and find a way to trim that weight off the pull. Or with the other settings (4mm X 11.25 oz) find a way to shorten the distance the sear and on/off pin need so the trigger pull itself can be moved back to 3mm or better. Either way, setting up the new sear mechanism where you can choose gears (and I have a perfect idea on how to have this customizable) could be the next big thing.

There's my idea (patent pending, jk), critique away! But I know the physics support it, it's just a case of if it is worth doing to a Mag. But it would be a drop-in replacement for the sear setup and fit fine in current gripframes, I have in all mapped out in my head.

[TheJester]

the thing with the gears...i've thought about actually trying something similar...but with more of a pulley system (little easier to make than micro gears)...but here are problems i see. the reason i never attempted to was i couldn't think of a way for it to work in reverse...for the return of the trigger. may have a similar problem with gears. also, what about durablility? they would have to stay in place for 1, so where you plan on putting these? in the rail? in the frame? how do you plan to hold them precisely in place? also, they would have to be small...small usually means fragil, how would you prevent the teeth from being damaged on the kick return of the trigger?

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

gears

You're right in that a belt system would have an issue with the return, and I admit I hadn't put as much thought on the return. BUT the smaller gear would be set with the pin holding the trigger as its axis. So it would move exactly as the trigger does. If a sear tip can handle the bolt pressure I'm sure the gear could handle the push from the trigger return. Unless cheap metal is used. The second gear is a tough one. What if a new rail was designed with a place to hold the second gear and the new sear assembly? Or a much thinner rail-like part that sits under the current rail? Doesn't have to be too thick at all, even as thin as a penny. Just enough to be strong and hold the gear steady. So the gear would be right above the safety, held in place by an attachment to the rail. So it would almost be like a spur hanging down. Plus the sear would sit in the rail and having a new rail lets AGD set the distance and height optimally so the sear bottom and the gear can line up. Not totally sure, if this idea was fine how it is I'd be making $$$ off it. But I know it can be done. I might sketch it out later on.